New Hot Bodies Buggy!!???????
10-19-2008, 08:19 PM
#1531
i have a d8 for trade in the for sale or trade forums............
10-19-2008, 09:08 PM
#1532
Ok I have had my D8 for 3 races now and I can not get it to stop feeling so springy in the rear I am running 1.3 with 45wt losi and losi black springs and a 104mm droop shock positions 3 on top and inner hole on the arms this so far has felt the best through the ruff stuff and it seems to settle better after the jumps. But I feel it could be better I am going to try a thicker oil in the rear to create more pack. please let me know if this is the right direction.
10-19-2008, 09:29 PM
#1533
Possible cure to the broken CVD epidemic????
IT finally happen to me (and my buddy, itsshemp)!!! After about three race days and a few practice days, had my first CVD snap. I love my D8, yes i said it, but the CVD issue really needs to be cured or at least put a band-aid on it for now. So after some discussion with my friend and i, hopefully this may be a fix to our problem.
In the pic below, you can see where the wear ring is around the axle
In this pic you can see where the axle is hitting the universal piece
The stock CVD, at maximum travel, will intersect at the 65 degree mark. I know that its not how to measure the angle but it is was the easiest place to put universal and not have it move around on me while staying perpendicular to the 0 degree mark. Also there is a line i aligned the shaft to at the 90 degree position.
We figured that some of the breakage may be from the heat and wear taking place at the point where the axle hits the universal piece during suspension travel and turning. If you have ever used a copper tube cutter, that is pretty much what is happening in my opinion. After doing a little shaving (with a dremel and grinding stone) on the inside of the universal piece, the shaft intersects at the 63 degree point. In reality, its a lil more than a degree more of travel, if measured correctly. I know a degree doesn't sound like a lot but think about the difference when talk about camber, anti-squat, etc...
HOPEFULLY the extra room I gave the axle will not hit when traveling up and down and turning. I know there will be a bunch of people throwing darts at my fix, but I would have to hate to wait on a HB fix when we all want to race next weekend and not worry about our shafts. If this works, the only downfall would be the weakened points right around where i shaved, we will see when I test this week. Also i plan on using all new shafts to see if the ring shows up again. Wish me luck!!
I should have been an Engineer...
Now if anyone knows how to strengthn the front-end, specifically, the rear hinge pin holder on the front diff case; sharing any ideas would be much appreciated. I have had two moderate impacts where the two srews (that hold the holder on) strip out from front impacts. That's next on my fix list...
IT finally happen to me (and my buddy, itsshemp)!!! After about three race days and a few practice days, had my first CVD snap. I love my D8, yes i said it, but the CVD issue really needs to be cured or at least put a band-aid on it for now. So after some discussion with my friend and i, hopefully this may be a fix to our problem.
In the pic below, you can see where the wear ring is around the axle
In this pic you can see where the axle is hitting the universal piece
The stock CVD, at maximum travel, will intersect at the 65 degree mark. I know that its not how to measure the angle but it is was the easiest place to put universal and not have it move around on me while staying perpendicular to the 0 degree mark. Also there is a line i aligned the shaft to at the 90 degree position.
We figured that some of the breakage may be from the heat and wear taking place at the point where the axle hits the universal piece during suspension travel and turning. If you have ever used a copper tube cutter, that is pretty much what is happening in my opinion. After doing a little shaving (with a dremel and grinding stone) on the inside of the universal piece, the shaft intersects at the 63 degree point. In reality, its a lil more than a degree more of travel, if measured correctly. I know a degree doesn't sound like a lot but think about the difference when talk about camber, anti-squat, etc...
HOPEFULLY the extra room I gave the axle will not hit when traveling up and down and turning. I know there will be a bunch of people throwing darts at my fix, but I would have to hate to wait on a HB fix when we all want to race next weekend and not worry about our shafts. If this works, the only downfall would be the weakened points right around where i shaved, we will see when I test this week. Also i plan on using all new shafts to see if the ring shows up again. Wish me luck!!
I should have been an Engineer...
Now if anyone knows how to strengthn the front-end, specifically, the rear hinge pin holder on the front diff case; sharing any ideas would be much appreciated. I have had two moderate impacts where the two srews (that hold the holder on) strip out from front impacts. That's next on my fix list...
Last edited by stipres; 10-19-2008 at 11:13 PM. Reason: pdmustgt said so
10-19-2008, 09:54 PM
#1534
Good job Stipres! Im glad you could put some pictures to it! It was hard to explain just in words. I did the mod to mine this morning. We will have to hit the track this week to put some time on them, and see how they do. Nothing really to lose, but a few more cvd's.
If it works out, great! If not, we keep hitting up HB until they run out of cvd's?
I am not going to stop racing this car, because of this. The car is too good to have something like this stop it.
Oh well, fingers crossed!
If it works out, great! If not, we keep hitting up HB until they run out of cvd's?
I am not going to stop racing this car, because of this. The car is too good to have something like this stop it.
Oh well, fingers crossed!
10-19-2008, 10:04 PM
#1535
Tech Fanatic
Good try but thats not how you measure angles
10-19-2008, 10:25 PM
#1536
i know its not the correct way but i just want to show the difference after the mod, i could care less about the specific numbers. i will edit my previous post (just for you), and note that the axles intersect at the 65* and the 63*, and its not necessarily that angle. the reason why i put the shaft assembly where it is on the protractor is for ease of placement. when layed where i have it, the universal doesnt roll around and it is kept perpendicular to the 0* mark. but i appreciate your input thanks!!! I would love to hear the rest of your input.
Last edited by stipres; 10-19-2008 at 10:54 PM.
10-19-2008, 10:41 PM
#1537
Well, I have to bite my tongue as well... I said it hadn't happened to me also, but I broke one, and them a guy I pit for, Vincent, broke one ending his main at the JBRL race at Rev today. I believe I've seen a few team guys running something differnet. Either another brand, or some custom ones that seem to be thicker and have Kyosho-style universal hinges....
Just a side note... HB makes a thicker, larger unit, I'm not sure what cars they come from other than the 1/7 scale Lightning on-road car I salvaged mine off of - The Lightning Street I believe its' called. I havent used them yet as I was more concerned with driveline/overall weight, but it seems to be minimal.- and I'm sure some people, if not most, would rather finish than worry about adding a couple of grams to the car. They a slight bit longer, but less I think than it looks in the pictures even... but they fit up fine. Tried them on last night. Just thought someone might like to know, since I wasted the time to try them on...
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/light_street.html
Just a side note... HB makes a thicker, larger unit, I'm not sure what cars they come from other than the 1/7 scale Lightning on-road car I salvaged mine off of - The Lightning Street I believe its' called. I havent used them yet as I was more concerned with driveline/overall weight, but it seems to be minimal.- and I'm sure some people, if not most, would rather finish than worry about adding a couple of grams to the car. They a slight bit longer, but less I think than it looks in the pictures even... but they fit up fine. Tried them on last night. Just thought someone might like to know, since I wasted the time to try them on...
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/light_street.html
10-19-2008, 10:42 PM
#1538
i have broken one rear shaft on a wot one wheel landing trying to save a bad jump
10-19-2008, 10:50 PM
#1539
Tech Apprentice
10-19-2008, 10:50 PM
#1540
Hinge pin Holders
Has anyone had happen what happened to me twice this weekend?
I got in an accident where my car got pinned under a raised section of pipe and the rear hinge pin got pulled right out of the arm on the inside of it (it flexed outwards somehow, allowing the pin to pop out) without breaking the arm...
Then, in the main, I got rammed by someone and the front-rear hingepin carrier flexed backwards enough to allow the front of the pin to pop out of the front carrier, again, without breaking or bending anything, but it easily ended my race.
I would really like to know what brand of locking threaded hingepins would fit both front and rear, inside and out... I believe I would rather have the added security, seeing as how it could have saved my 3rd place position in the A-main at JBRL today!
I got in an accident where my car got pinned under a raised section of pipe and the rear hinge pin got pulled right out of the arm on the inside of it (it flexed outwards somehow, allowing the pin to pop out) without breaking the arm...
Then, in the main, I got rammed by someone and the front-rear hingepin carrier flexed backwards enough to allow the front of the pin to pop out of the front carrier, again, without breaking or bending anything, but it easily ended my race.
I would really like to know what brand of locking threaded hingepins would fit both front and rear, inside and out... I believe I would rather have the added security, seeing as how it could have saved my 3rd place position in the A-main at JBRL today!
10-19-2008, 11:08 PM
#1541
hi guys
about the axles,i have just put the lightning2 they are thicker and a bit longer.you have to grind 1mm from the outside of the cup but this will work.we r all using them here and they seem to be the solution.the stock axles are 4mm thick and the old ones 5mm.i hope this helps
about the axles,i have just put the lightning2 they are thicker and a bit longer.you have to grind 1mm from the outside of the cup but this will work.we r all using them here and they seem to be the solution.the stock axles are 4mm thick and the old ones 5mm.i hope this helps
10-19-2008, 11:09 PM
#1542
10-19-2008, 11:34 PM
#1543
my D8
hhhh
10-20-2008, 01:09 AM
#1544
if hpi says
the metal threatment is the cause of the cvd breakage(to hard)
perhaps just heating them to red and letting them cool off
or something like that, would change the material density enough
worth trying..
but also, racing in cold wintertemperature will make things even worse....
the metal threatment is the cause of the cvd breakage(to hard)
perhaps just heating them to red and letting them cool off
or something like that, would change the material density enough
worth trying..
but also, racing in cold wintertemperature will make things even worse....
Last edited by speedy2; 10-20-2008 at 02:03 AM.
