TITANIUM SCREWS NEEDED ANY HELP ??
04-08-2008, 04:51 PM
#16
www.Lunsfordracing.com is the only company that I know of and plan on paying a boat load for there stuff but it is nice and you may have to make up your own kit
04-08-2008, 10:23 PM
#19
Dude I'm sorry but don't buy rcscrewz they are about as good as a huge pile of crap.
04-08-2008, 11:36 PM
#20
I replaced most of the chassis' countersunk steel screws with titanium, because those 3mm steel ones strips easily (the heads). Those 4mm ones will save a bunch of weight 
Xenon and speedway make excellent ones 
Xenon and speedway make excellent ones
Last edited by razor_clawzz; 04-08-2008 at 11:53 PM.
04-09-2008, 02:23 AM
#21
Tech Regular
I think Nitrohouse may have some titanium screws. I was told they also carry aluminum screws but you cant use those in high stress areas. For the Jammin you can get the aluminum center diff posts to lighten up the car. that replaces a lot of steel with aluminum so big weight savings there.
04-09-2008, 05:08 AM
#22
team vtx sell em.
04-09-2008, 09:02 AM
#23
ttt
Hey thanks for all the help everyone 
04-09-2008, 02:46 PM
#24
I get asked all the times if I have aluminum or titanium screws. Aluminum screws are very soft so they can't be used in any high stress areas, under the chassis or in any spots going into aluminum parts (where you need loctite).
As for Titanium screws, they are also weaker than alloy steel and will strip out very easily. They cost 10x more. You shouldn't use them under the chassis, in any aluminum parts that need to be loctite or any high stress areas. Titanium becomes very brittle under stress and the screws will sheer off under a hard impact. You shouldn't use them in any aluminum parts or under the aluminum chassis as there is a chemical reaction between the aluminum and titanium causing them to bind. When you go to take out the screw you'll strip the head out. Under the chassis the screws hex sockets also collect a lot of dirt which makes them that much more prone to stripping out since you may not clean out the hex socket well enough to get a good bite on the hex with your hex driver.
For the cost and the little weight saved you can spend the money to lose much more weight in other places: LiPo Rx packs, aftermarket aluminum hopups that are lighter and stronger than the factory alum parts, tires, foams (molded foams are much heavier than standard foams), lightened driveline parts, high grade aluminum pivot balls and ball end links, etc.
If you want to save weight but not sacrifice durability with your hardware, I suggest using Grade 12.9 alloy steel under the chassis, in any aluminum parts and any other high stress areas where the screw may take a hard impact. The alloy steel screws are not very expensive either. Then in low stress areas use the cheaper and lighter aluminum screws. They cost much less than Titanium screws and you can get them in cool anodized colors (red, blue, purple, gold and silver). You can also save a good amount of weight using aluminum locknuts. If you use the alloy screws and then aluminum screws/nuts like above you'll lose less weight, spend a lot LESS money and not sacrifice any strength. The places to use Titanium is in the tie rods since they don't typically experience loads or impacts where a high sheer strength is needed.
As for stainless steel screws, all I can say is they are good for boats, but the high stress an R/C car sees they are just not strong and high quality enough.
Best regards,
As for Titanium screws, they are also weaker than alloy steel and will strip out very easily. They cost 10x more. You shouldn't use them under the chassis, in any aluminum parts that need to be loctite or any high stress areas. Titanium becomes very brittle under stress and the screws will sheer off under a hard impact. You shouldn't use them in any aluminum parts or under the aluminum chassis as there is a chemical reaction between the aluminum and titanium causing them to bind. When you go to take out the screw you'll strip the head out. Under the chassis the screws hex sockets also collect a lot of dirt which makes them that much more prone to stripping out since you may not clean out the hex socket well enough to get a good bite on the hex with your hex driver.
For the cost and the little weight saved you can spend the money to lose much more weight in other places: LiPo Rx packs, aftermarket aluminum hopups that are lighter and stronger than the factory alum parts, tires, foams (molded foams are much heavier than standard foams), lightened driveline parts, high grade aluminum pivot balls and ball end links, etc.
If you want to save weight but not sacrifice durability with your hardware, I suggest using Grade 12.9 alloy steel under the chassis, in any aluminum parts and any other high stress areas where the screw may take a hard impact. The alloy steel screws are not very expensive either. Then in low stress areas use the cheaper and lighter aluminum screws. They cost much less than Titanium screws and you can get them in cool anodized colors (red, blue, purple, gold and silver). You can also save a good amount of weight using aluminum locknuts. If you use the alloy screws and then aluminum screws/nuts like above you'll lose less weight, spend a lot LESS money and not sacrifice any strength. The places to use Titanium is in the tie rods since they don't typically experience loads or impacts where a high sheer strength is needed.
As for stainless steel screws, all I can say is they are good for boats, but the high stress an R/C car sees they are just not strong and high quality enough.
Best regards,
04-09-2008, 03:26 PM
#25
I see titanium being used maybe in the diffs. I would consider them there on my Mugen or Kyosho. That way I can use a longer bolt thats lighter and take some rotating mass out. As for other areas, you have to chose carefully. I only used a few from my WC kit, but use the Tony screws on the bottom chassis and stressed areas.
04-09-2008, 04:12 PM
#26
I've used Titanium screws for the last 3 years.
Used them on my Team Magic G4 and more receantly on my M1B TURBO.
I get them mainly from Lunsford Racing although they're a little short on the 4mm screws.
I'd also try Titanium Racing. They have a good selection of parts made from Titanium including screws.
Ensure you get the high quality Titanium. The low quality stuff is very brittle as Tony earlier pointed out and they strip out easily.
You can tell the good quality Titanium from the poor quality stuff by the finnish.
The good stuff is very shiney, with a shine almost like chrome! The low quality stuff is a dull, almost grey in colour!
Lunsford and Titanium Racing both use high quality Titanium!
www.titaniumracing.com
Regards,
British Menace
Used them on my Team Magic G4 and more receantly on my M1B TURBO.
I get them mainly from Lunsford Racing although they're a little short on the 4mm screws.
I'd also try Titanium Racing. They have a good selection of parts made from Titanium including screws.
Ensure you get the high quality Titanium. The low quality stuff is very brittle as Tony earlier pointed out and they strip out easily.
You can tell the good quality Titanium from the poor quality stuff by the finnish.
The good stuff is very shiney, with a shine almost like chrome! The low quality stuff is a dull, almost grey in colour!
Lunsford and Titanium Racing both use high quality Titanium!
www.titaniumracing.com
Regards,
British Menace
04-09-2008, 05:03 PM
#28
I ran MBX5's with Ty screws in everything EXCEPT the chassis braces, the top mounting screws for the shocks and the bottom steering post screws. I stopped using them in these positions because the would sheer. Also no ty set screws. Ran 2 cars over a 4 year period like this with out issues. They were screws from a Mugen MRX screw kit. There were 2 kits you needed to buy 1 upper chassis kit & 1 lower chassis kit. The 2 kits togeather cost about 60 bucks. I weighed the difference but it was so long ago I can't remember the numbers. I just remember being surprised at the difference.
04-12-2008, 09:52 AM
#29
With the touring car, G4S. I put Titanium screws, turnbuckles and pivot balls on and it saved me just over 45g !!
Regards,
British Menace
04-12-2008, 10:49 AM
#30
rotating weight and the unsprung weight are 2 most important areas to worry about....if you don't know what unsprung weight it is any the that is affected with suspension travel ie....hubs,carriers, a-arms(upper&lower),wheels,if you get the point....everything else is stationary and will not change with suspension travel.......(1:1 race car tricks)just some input