New XRAY 808

Old 09-13-2010, 03:42 AM
  #7981  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
It's not a bearing problem. I have been running the smaller 08 / 09 bearings for over two years now without a failure of any kind (not the same set of bearings obviously).
Use the grease tip, and be carefull how tight you nip up the 3 x retaining screws. It is possible to do them up so tight that the bearings get pressured and start catching. That would cause bearing failure really quickly, like one or two races.
The X-Ray chassis does flex quite a bit, but it's designed to do that. Stiffen it up too much and you loose the handling. Just my .02c worth
How can you overtighten the screws? When completely tightened, even with new bulkheads they don't secure the bearing completely... And that's one more problem, as the outer part of the bearing starts spining in the gearbox.

From now, until the end of the year, yes, I'm going to change brand this time, I'll run the ring side bearing completely without cover and try to find a shim to secure them better, and of course completely packed with grease with the cap mod...

I don't know if it's the tracks I run at, but this problem keeps getting on my way... One of them has a big triple, but it's quite bumpy before the jump, so some times, when you think you're going to clear it, you just lose speed and case it. You should see how one of my bearings got after one of those hits...
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:11 AM
  #7982  
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I got 5 1/2 race hours on my 2010 pinion bearings so far and still like new.I'm running 3 bearing pinions with 13x20 bearings.I found a supplier of good quality bearings in this size with 2 rubber seals so I fit the front bearing with the rear seal removed,the center bearing with both seals removed and the rear with the front seal removed.I pack each bearing as per Bren's grease tip as I go along.Then I bought 2 packs of the 14x20x0.1 shims from a heli supplier that someone posted a link for a few pages back and I fit one of those inside the bulkhead between the bearing and the 3 screws.Then I tighten the screws tight -tight.I fail to see how you can over-tighten these as it's hardly likely a 3mm screw threaded into plastic is going to over compress the steel outer race of a set of bearings.
Anyway this method of mounting the assembly along with my dust boot mod and everything runs perfect..At least it did till my con rod let go at full revs along the start/finish straight yesterday..first lap of the final starting in pole position too.
If you're reading this Grizz1 killed another PRS in the MG66.I knew I shoulda swopped that rod after the throttle servo stuck last race: flaming:

Oh and I drive like a maniac so don't think my bearings are getting an easy time of it.Personally I think it's dust getting forced into the bearings with compressor cleaning myself.
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:30 PM
  #7983  
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
13x20 bearings.I found a supplier of good quality bearings in this size
May we/i also know that supplier?
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:54 PM
  #7984  
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just my opinion, but I dont think its dirt in the bearings causing the problem... when you case a jump, you put so much pressure on the center cvd drive shaft, that it "punches" the end of the cvd into the pinion so hard, the force is transferred from the pinion into the bearings... causing bearing collapse.... I have never had any probs, with the exception of bearing shield popping off the inside and getting stuck in the mesh.... I now remove shield, and not one prob since... and NO, I dont clean bearing very often... when I have them out, I clean shieldless bearing, regrease, and replce the other... usually every 4 races.... but as far as bearing collapse, never had any probs... ran 09 for over a year... now have a 10 spec.... anyway.. just my 2cents
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:14 PM
  #7985  
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
I got 5 1/2 race hours on my 2010 pinion bearings so far and still like new.I'm running 3 bearing pinions with 13x20 bearings.I found a supplier of good quality bearings in this size with 2 rubber seals so I fit the front bearing with the rear seal removed,the center bearing with both seals removed and the rear with the front seal removed.I pack each bearing as per Bren's grease tip as I go along.Then I bought 2 packs of the 14x20x0.1 shims from a heli supplier that someone posted a link for a few pages back and I fit one of those inside the bulkhead between the bearing and the 3 screws.Then I tighten the screws tight -tight.I fail to see how you can over-tighten these as it's hardly likely a 3mm screw threaded into plastic is going to over compress the steel outer race of a set of bearings.
Anyway this method of mounting the assembly along with my dust boot mod and everything runs perfect..At least it did till my con rod let go at full revs along the start/finish straight yesterday..first lap of the final starting in pole position too.
If you're reading this Grizz1 killed another PRS in the MG66.I knew I shoulda swopped that rod after the throttle servo stuck last race: flaming:

Oh and I drive like a maniac so don't think my bearings are getting an easy time of it.Personally I think it's dust getting forced into the bearings with compressor cleaning myself.
Sorry boys. I got confused between the Serpent 811 (which I ran for a short time) bearing retainer screws and the 808. In the 811 you can nip the screws up tight enough to really interfere with the smooth rotation of the bearing. Not so in the 808, my apologies.
Man, that's sad news Gizz. Yep, it always pays to replace the rod after an over rev from a faulty servo etc. It's always clear in hindsite though. Never mind. Think of all the fun you will have running a new PRS in - NOT!!!
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:32 PM
  #7986  
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Any mods that can be done to increase steering movement, with my rc8 it had so much steering i could look straight at the car, turn left and right and almost see the entire round side of the wheel, with this car it seems the steering block hits the caster block way too early.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mcion
Any mods that can be done to increase steering movement, with my rc8 it had so much steering i could look straight at the car, turn left and right and almost see the entire round side of the wheel, with this car it seems the steering block hits the caster block way too early.
On the composite parts there is not much that can be done but if your running the ali option parts you can get the steering to crank over till the drive shafts will turn no more.

On the castor block next to where it mounts the wishbone placing this small chamfer allows it all to pivot around further.

I run both the ali castor blocks & hub as it gives more throw but will get a similar effect with the composite hub but needs the ali castor block to achive it.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:50 PM
  #7988  
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Originally Posted by mcion
Any mods that can be done to increase steering movement, with my rc8 it had so much steering i could look straight at the car, turn left and right and almost see the entire round side of the wheel, with this car it seems the steering block hits the caster block way too early.
The stearing throw on the 808 is right on par with all the other buggies. The difference is in the front diff. In order for me to get the stearing I wanted I needed to switch to the active diff. I think the fact that this is the lightest buggy out it takes away from the stearing. You may also want to go with smaller sway bars as that will increase stearing tremendously
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
The stearing throw on the 808 is right on par with all the other buggies. The difference is in the front diff. In order for me to get the stearing I wanted I needed to switch to the active diff. I think the fact that this is the lightest buggy out it takes away from the stearing. You may also want to go with smaller sway bars as that will increase stearing tremendously
I dont think it is, well maybe the servo throw is on par, but the wheels do not have a wide range of motion left and right. If I full turn left or right, there is about an inch left between the wheel and the shock, where as on my rc8 there was about 1/4th an inch left. I think i will do brens mod see how much it increases.
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by clio
May we/i also know that supplier?
Actually an ebay seller based in the UK.The 13x20 he gets are special order only and come from the states somewhere. They work out at 1.50 each too which is around $2.25 at the current exchange rate.I was buying avids which with the postage work out at around $2 a bearing but I was killing the front bearing every 2 hours or less and so far these are holding up 3 times longer.I see you are in the netherlands so postage shouldn't be too expensive for you ..the seller Alan is very helpful and I usually order dozens of sets of bearings from him for all our club members at once so he gives me free postage to France too..Otherwise I get them sent to any friend in the UK who's coming over to visit as postage to the UK is always free.Anyway link below if it's any use to you.

http://shop.ebay.fr/alan041049/m.htm...&_trksid=p4340
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Sorry boys. I got confused between the Serpent 811 (which I ran for a short time) bearing retainer screws and the 808. In the 811 you can nip the screws up tight enough to really interfere with the smooth rotation of the bearing. Not so in the 808, my apologies.
Man, that's sad news Gizz. Yep, it always pays to replace the rod after an over rev from a faulty servo etc. It's always clear in hindsite though. Never mind. Think of all the fun you will have running a new PRS in - NOT!!!
I've only got 2 races left this season Grizz1 so I've ordered the new PRS from Mark but I'll run the 7 port for those days and run in the MG66 new again during the winter then I'll swop out the rod and probably a new crank for the start of next year.That'll be nice anyway.
New track layout and rebuild worked fantastic for our last race at the club.Pretty much no holes or ruts in it at all so my plan worked.Only 30 drives not 55 but even so..a bit more work this winter and it'll be perfect for next season.AND I can spend my time working on my driving and not the track!
I don't know why people find the 808 doesn't turn enough.Mine spins on a dime easy enough.I just do most of my really tight turns off power and with the active diff in front it hooks round awesome.
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Old 09-14-2010, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
I've only got 2 races left this season Grizz1 so I've ordered the new PRS from Mark but I'll run the 7 port for those days and run in the MG66 new again during the winter then I'll swop out the rod and probably a new crank for the start of next year.That'll be nice anyway.
New track layout and rebuild worked fantastic for our last race at the club.Pretty much no holes or ruts in it at all so my plan worked.Only 30 drives not 55 but even so..a bit more work this winter and it'll be perfect for next season.AND I can spend my time working on my driving and not the track!
I don't know why people find the 808 doesn't turn enough.Mine spins on a dime easy enough.I just do most of my really tight turns off power and with the active diff in front it hooks round awesome.
Yep, I never thought the steering was lacking too much. I am not running the 41T front at present, and it still has bags of steering.
You can dial more steering in (too much in some cases) by simply shifting the front camber links to the top hole on the shock tower and dropping the bump steer spacers down to 2mm from 3mm. Gets a little twitchy, but will turn on a dime.
Your summer is coming to an end and ours is just starting and boy are we looking forward to it !! It has been WET here forever. Very little racing the last 3 or so months as tracks have been under water in most places. Spring has sprung, so roll on those long summer days with plenty of track time.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
Anyway link below if it's any use to you.
_trksid=p4340[/url]
Greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:12 PM
  #7994  
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Originally Posted by mcion
I dont think it is, well maybe the servo throw is on par, but the wheels do not have a wide range of motion left and right. If I full turn left or right, there is about an inch left between the wheel and the shock, where as on my rc8 there was about 1/4th an inch left. I think i will do brens mod see how much it increases.
Originally Posted by mcion
Any mods that can be done to increase steering movement, with my rc8 it had so much steering i could look straight at the car, turn left and right and almost see the entire round side of the wheel, with this car it seems the steering block hits the caster block way too early.
An RC8 was my first 1/8th buggy and I noticed the same thing. Off power the turn radius is about 3ft just rolling around. Other buggies have about 3.5ft radius off power. On power they are all close. This extra wheel lock was an advantage on tight low speed technical parts of a track. Especially in traffic when 6 inches might be the difference in passing someone or bumping them.

I like the idea of getting those AL carriers for more wheel lock. But whew they are pricey.

On power you can use a 41t or AD to pull/slide the rear around to turn tighter.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:51 PM
  #7995  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
It's not a bearing problem. I have been running the smaller 08 / 09 bearings for over two years now without a failure of any kind (not the same set of bearings obviously).
Use the grease tip, and be carefull how tight you nip up the 3 x retaining screws. It is possible to do them up so tight that the bearings get pressured and start catching. That would cause bearing failure really quickly, like one or two races.
The X-Ray chassis does flex quite a bit, but it's designed to do that. Stiffen it up too much and you loose the handling. Just my .02c worth
your rigth grizz it's not the bearings setup thats the problem it's the type of bearings they supply the dual steel sheilded bearings are rubbish no protection from dust what so ever and not easy to pop the inner sheild to grease either.

As grizz knows I did the rear end of my 10 spec 2nd meeting out less than 2 gallons on the buggy the outer rear bearing seized up due to dust. since then I have gone to the three bearing setup in the rear with avids and popped the inner sheild and zero issues.

I ran the 8 and 9 spec buggies also and never once had a rear bearing falure using the same method.

my advise to anyone building a 10 spec would be to throw the dual steel sheided bearings in the bin where they belong and install a set of avids or similar bearings with 1 steel and 1 rubber sheild, on the outerbearing face the rubber sheild out from the gearbox and remove the rubber sheild from the inner bearing and face it into the gearbox -tighten all three screws, do not back them off as this reduces any variation in shimming due to the pinion moving in and out

just what has worked for me

HOPE IT STOPS RAINING HERE SOON

Adrian
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