New XRAY 808

Old 08-26-2010, 08:26 PM
  #7831  
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Originally Posted by CJ Weaver
Yeah, I am going to try and leave the screw out this weekend and see how it goes. By the way, the new buggy looks great, especially that paint scheme.
CJ, I learned this trick years ago when I used to run the Losi 1.0.. they also had a set screw in the center CVD.... Got a tip from a pro back then that said try leaving the screw out, after that, the "notch" effect seemed to go away.... now, I just buy extra CVD barrels that are for the axles, and use those all the way around the car... I think they are a bit cheaper as well...
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:30 PM
  #7832  
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any pictures of this mod?
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:42 PM
  #7833  
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Originally Posted by ganymede
any pictures of this mod?
its not really a mod... just do 1 of two things... leave the set screw out that holds the pin in the center CVD, or just use the barrel that you use in the axle CVD... that barrel is solid and doesnt have a set screw....
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:05 PM
  #7834  
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There are a couple of guys doing that here in AZ also. They say that the pin will spin because its not locked down and that prevents it from getting flat spots. I change mine every 2 weeks or so so its not that big a deal to me but they say it makes things last longer. To me I dont know if its worth the chance of losing one of those pins, which will end your race in a hurry
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:09 PM
  #7835  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
There are a couple of guys doing that here in AZ also. They say that the pin will spin because its not locked down and that prevents it from getting flat spots. I change mine every 2 weeks or so so its not that big a deal to me but they say it makes things last longer. To me I dont know if its worth the chance of losing one of those pins, which will end your race in a hurry

Ive been doing it for years... never lost a pin... not sure how it would even fall out... its captured inside the bearing... just like the axle cvd...
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:12 PM
  #7836  
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Originally Posted by Greenlee37
Ive been doing it for years... never lost a pin... not sure how it would even fall out... its captured inside the bearing... just like the axle cvd...
you've never seen me drive I crash hard enough to make the engine fall out..those little pins dont stand a chance
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:33 PM
  #7837  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
you've never seen me drive I crash hard enough to make the engine fall out..those little pins dont stand a chance
HAHA... I hear ya bro...
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:20 PM
  #7838  
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Greenlee37- Why did you choose to use the Kyosho shocks over the Xray shocks?
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
sorry but off the bearing topic I am curious on how you guys are setting up your brake linkage so you get a nice smooth on/off action from the servo, I notice on my rods that they start to wear a channel mid way along the rod, I also run a small washer in front of a bit of fuel hose is that necessary can i do without the washers??
cheers
I had some issues with that as well. I ended up using those plastic cone washers from a kyosho brake linkage. and replaced the rods too Xray kind...

those don't bind....Or any plastic washer...
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:15 AM
  #7840  
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Originally Posted by Greenlee37
its not really a mod... just do 1 of two things... leave the set screw out that holds the pin in the center CVD, or just use the barrel that you use in the axle CVD... that barrel is solid and doesnt have a set screw....

Ok, I got it... Will give it a try... thanks!
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Old 08-27-2010, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan D.
Greenlee37- Why did you choose to use the Kyosho shocks over the Xray shocks?
main reason is because I can get more travel with the K-shocks.. Xray rears if I remember right, max length is 113 mm droop before the piston bottoms out...... I am running these at 117... when I ran the xray shocks, my car seemed to bottom out (chassis slap) more than I liked.. I tried more pack but then I suffered in the bumpy stuff... so I went with medium length rear K-shocks, stock front mp9s... and it feels much better to me... I ran Kyosho buggy and truggy for a while before switching to Xray... I have always thought Kyosho has the best shocks on the market... just my opinion.... I never had any problems with xray shocks leaking, like some have.. Kyosho shocks just feel really good...
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Old 08-27-2010, 02:54 AM
  #7842  
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
sorry but off the bearing topic I am curious on how you guys are setting up your brake linkage so you get a nice smooth on/off action from the servo, I notice on my rods that they start to wear a channel mid way along the rod, I also run a small washer in front of a bit of fuel hose is that necessary can i do without the washers??
cheers
I use kyosho linkage parts, the cone, washer, small springs,,, what I have been doing is bending the front brake eyelet up slightly to create more fluid return... not sure if it my servo type or what, my servos sits a tad high so the front brake rod is at a slight downwayrd angle... when my brake rod returns it was dragging the brake lever... so I bent it slightly and it was fixed.... just my 2 cents, but I highly reccomend the kyosho linkage.. those little springs they use instead of fuel tubing is the way to go.... good luck..
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:34 PM
  #7843  
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Originally Posted by Greenlee37
CJ, I learned this trick years ago when I used to run the Losi 1.0.. they also had a set screw in the center CVD.... Got a tip from a pro back then that said try leaving the screw out, after that, the "notch" effect seemed to go away.... now, I just buy extra CVD barrels that are for the axles, and use those all the way around the car... I think they are a bit cheaper as well...
See your point on this but found when testing the 808 proto type it initially came with a no grub screw option. Wear was higher with the pins only doing 3-4 hours before they flopped around in the cylinders & pinion, can only describe the look as if it had been machined like an old chair leg spindle. Testing & holding the pin captive with a grub screw did over time give flat spots on the pins but had far less wear & movement in the long term giving a greater life for the whole assembly.

There is no harm in what you are doing but it will wear quicker if you dont use the grub screw.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:07 PM
  #7844  
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Originally Posted by Bren Ralls
See your point on this but found when testing the 808 proto type it initially came with a no grub screw option. Wear was higher with the pins only doing 3-4 hours before they flopped around in the cylinders & pinion, can only describe the look as if it had been machined like an old chair leg spindle. Testing & holding the pin captive with a grub screw did over time give flat spots on the pins but had far less wear & movement in the long term giving a greater life for the whole assembly.

There is no harm in what you are doing but it will wear quicker if you dont use the grub screw.

I havent ran a grub screw in so long I dont even remember.. I think it just became habit... I think its 6 one way, half a dozen to the other.... its gonna wear out no matter what you do.... Thanks for your input Bren..
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:47 PM
  #7845  
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Default Decision! Decision! Decision!

Guys!

I need a new body soon, please help me to pick one...

Proline Crowd Pleazer 2.0


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