bigmatt

iTrader: (16)

I went and made some foam comp's from some ofna tire foams,red/pink? any way the stiffer foam worked. I will say that i did 50% rebound but only got about 25%. I will say from ripping around the back yard with some harsh bumps the car's suspension is really planted. I could run over the rough stuff wide open with out the bunny hop/flip the car over. I'm not sure why or how it made such a difference but it did. I am using the ribbed bladders.

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

Guys,

On the rebound, there is no way (that I know of) to get the exact rebound that you wanted on a RC car shocks, there are just way too many variables affecting it (tolerance of the piston, shock body, seals, etc). It is just approximation and not exact... Cheers!

grizz1

Hi Matt,

I have been away on holiday and haven't touched my car for a couple of weeks. Was going to do the cap drilling exercise when I got home.
I am currently running the ribbed X-Ray bladders and setting rebound using the Drake method (cap off), and find I can get the rebound reasonably equal using this method. Like ganymede says, getting the rebound exactly the same is a big ask. I did find the ribbed bladders an improvement on the track. Going to rebuild my shocks with the Kyosho O rings too, seeing everyone swears by them - although I don't have any leak problems normally. I am running 2 x old O rings on the shock shafts to stop over pressurizing due to excess piston travel on the 09 mod shocks. This solved any seepage problems I had when I first went to the 09 shock mod.

Bren Ralls

Achieving rebound & drake vid method looked fantastic & somthing i tried but with drilled caps & ribbed bladder with foam was not able to achieve this like most of the posts just left the shocks dead. Whether ribbed bladders are to deep i guess somthing to test but they where not designed for this purpose but for increasing volume to stop leaks. Went back to normal method of screwing the shock into the cap slowly & rebound returned. I always put the hole facing up & shock layed at 45 deg & take between 30 -60 seconds to screw together. If you dont run that method give it a try you will be suprised at how much more consistent your shocks will be.

Shocks leaking & my personal view is just a case of rushing them, if i quickly throw them together they will leak some oil. We have tried bigger shafts & it was not a true fix, just take your time in building was a better fix.

Drilled caps & foam will give very consistent feel over a long main, a specific foam & size is somthing that we are working on just takes time to get it right.
Still unsure which i prefer drilled or std with ribbed bladder as both give a consistent fell over long runs when built right.

acerracing

Yes we have just released the XRAY 808 2010 Edition Ceramic Bearing Kit. This is a full and complete XRAY 808 bearing kit made from our Ceramic Nitride Pro Series ball bearing material. Includes six (not 4) reengineered 13x20mm ceramic bearings, ceramic clutch bearings, and all the other bearings in the buggy (even the steering and clutch)! This ceramic bearing kit is amazing, and so is the XRAY 808 2010 Edition!
On sale for $119.99 with FREE worldwide shipping.

vince7870

iTrader: (15)

What exactly do you mean by reengineered 13x20 bearings?

vince7870

iTrader: (15)

What exactly do you mean by reengineered 13x20 bearings?

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

there are so many cnc aluminium upgrades for the 808 is any worth getting or should i just stick with whats already there??
cheers

CJ Weaver

I have the 12º Aluminum Caster Blocks on my car right now and they work great. I also recommend the Laser Cut Hardened Brake Pads and Carbon Fiber Brake Discs for more consistent braking. Everything else will work fine.

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

I Like my Aluminum Hinge Pin Holders, they look bling and they give me more tuning options

CJ Weaver

Those too...I forgot them.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

In all honesty, the only upgrades u should get are the rear alu hubs and brake pads discs in graphite with the metal pads.

Get some decent SS screws for the front and rear shock towers and the fioroni front shock tower protection and your set.

All the other stuff maybe tunning aids, but stock you can get plenty for what you need.

Xray all the way no turning back for me now...

jamiekerr14

I have the Ali Front tower and Ali ackeram.. only as I got then new and a great deal from a friend.. amongst new hardened pads.. and run avid's with them. I just today ordered the front and rear Lower susp holder's. TBH I dont really know why, but Im getting more into setup and stuff.. and they make taking diffs out a whole lot easier.. but tbh.. I only got them, as I had a little bit of spare £ from selling some other stuff..otherwise I wouldn't have got them tbh.. Did think about getting some ali caster blocks.. but just got composite for now atleast..

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

besides amain hobbies is there any other suppliers out there that people use that will ship worldwide for all xray 808?
cheers and thanks to the guys who replied about aluminium upgrades the F+R shock holders look like a very good tuning upgrade

acerracing

Yes you can buy the 13x20mm Ceramic Bearings for the 2010 Xray 808 individually also if you wish. They are $7.99 each with FREE worldwide shipping. Thanks!