Jarred King

iTrader: (25)

there been leaking from new. there about 3 meets old.

i havent tried new bodies and caps. but ive tried different caps and bodies to see if i could elliminate what it was.

still does my head in. there obviously machined wrong

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

one more question, did you install the bladders using the manual's method or adam drake's method?

Jarred King

iTrader: (25)

Adam drakes method.

whats the difference? no matter what way you put it in the shock cap should seal the bladder to stop leaking shocks.

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

yes, it doesn't really matter which method but with adam's method you have to make sure when you screw down the shock cap, the shock bladder is nicely fitted inside the groove of the shock cap... which you can't see...

if you use the manual's method, the manual specifically reminded user to seat the bladder inside the shock cap snugly before capping it...

i used both methods without any sign of leaking YET...

i also make sure when i screw down the shock cap, the shock cap goes in nice and square...

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

Jarred, I'm just throwing this out there for what it's worth. Don't know if it is causing your problem or not but when XRAY released the new shocks with the new bottom caps and shock boots they did not redesign the shafts or bodies to compensate for the increased up travel. In most situation at full up travel your piston nut will hit the shock bladder. When this happens it may very well be causing a slight lift of the seal and allowing the oil to escape. Try one more thing before you give up:
put 2 shaft O rings around the top or the shock shafts right under the bottom shock cap before your slip the dust boot on. This will prevent the nut from hitting the bladder upun full up travel

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

that's what I was thinking......

CJ Weaver

Does anyone know where to get the Much-More LiFe pack? The part number MFE-RF1600, but I can only find it on the Much-More Japanese website. I know someone posted that they were running it a while back, but I was wondering how you got it.

Thanks.

CJ Weaver

razo125

+1 The 2 orings work but make sure you use soft o-rings, if they are the hard ones they act as a extra spring and bounce your car.

Also with the 09/10 shorter lower shock caps, the rubber boots seem to function as the limiter when your shocks bottom out. So technically you should not need the o-rings unless you don't run a shock shaft dust boots. The problem is these get worn or damaged pretty quick on rough tracks. At that point they no longer work as well limiting up-travel.

If your getting leaks on the bottom o-ring seals... I think it's already been posted but some people are using kyosho or mugen o-rings

808gx7r

http://goracingnz.vpweb.co.nz/default.html

CJ Weaver

Thanks!

bigmatt

iTrader: (16)

I have a problem. I did the adam drake foam compensator losi shock trick. set the rebound for 50% but the shaft will not return by it's self from full compression back to the 50% like it shows in the video. I am using air filter foam for the compensator. Any body have any ideas? also any one have the height and circumference of the foam that needs to go on top of the bladder? isn't it like 5mm thick and fit into the bladder? I'm thinking I cut the foam to small not putting enough pressure on the bladder.

K.Copeland

iTrader: (96)

I did the drilled shock cap thing, used some dense foam, and have no rebound at all.

TopGearRC

iTrader: (21)

Does anyone know if xray will be releasing a 2011 version buggy next yr?

Zerodefect

Doubt it. The 2010 is about as good as it gets.

They should be concentrating on the E 810 right now!

mmaattppllaayy

iTrader: (35)

Im sure there will some improvement always can improve those pinion bearings and maybe some better sealing bottom shock caps. If the shock shaft is 3.5mm then they need a 3.4 mm oring to seal it not 3.5mm easy fix