New XRAY 808

Old 07-27-2010, 10:16 AM
  #7576  
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Originally Posted by ganymede
Any pic?
Of the felt mod..sure I'll do some in a bit....
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
I'm using AVID's at the moment but I did a little mod to my diff housings..I found some heavy felt circles made to fit under chair legs to stop them scraping wooden floors..punched a small hole in the center and then slit to the outer edge and slipped them over the CVD shaft and glued to the bulkhead..100% effective dust seal with a touch of heavy grease added where the shaft goes through..
Some of the Team Drivers are doing this same thing using Shock Bladders
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
someone told me that its the size of the balls in the bearings (no jokes please ) They said XRAY uses larger balls and therefore they dont heat up and break down as much because they have less revolutions to make a full rotation. i have not opened and compared them but it very well may be true. i found that the new bearing tip and checking them every 2 weeks has eliminated my problems. I just got 2 sleeves of the Avid 13x20 so i sure hope my good luck holds up. If not i'll be looking for bigger balls
Jaz, I would not worry about the Avids. I have been running for Avid since I have been running 1/8th scale (6 years) and even with the 13x19/20 bearings haven't had any abnormal problems.

The differences in the bearings isn't great enough to overcome the pure physics of a drivetrain that spins like ours.

Originally Posted by Gizmatron
I'm also gonna try the acer racing 13x20 ceramics soon as they appear this month.They sent me a set of 1/2" x 3/4" to try for free as they have different size balls too and different tolerances and they have apparently had good feedback using them to replace 13x19 bearings (they come out at 12.7mmx19.08mm) but unfortunately the 12.7 is too tight for xray's pinions or cvd outdrives and I don't feel like turning down a set to fit.
Just a heads up...I know ceramic bearings are a 'hot deal' right now, but I will take it to my grave that a hybrid ceramic bearing (steel races with ceramic balls) will not last as long as a quality all steel bearing like the XRAY and Avid bearings. I would only use a full, high quality all ceramic (races and balls) ceramic bearing over a steel bearing.
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:58 AM
  #7579  
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Done the shock bladder tip then did some thinking, came up with this which does the trick but make maintaining easier.
Parts used 09 bearing composite spacer glued to the bulkhead & a dust cover from the carb. Getting the hole right for the drive shaft is tricky, but now allows pins to be greased up so minimal wear & dust free bearings, might replace these next year now
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bren Ralls
Done the shock bladder tip then did some thinking, came up with this which does the trick but make maintaining easier.
Parts used 09 bearing composite spacer glued to the bulkhead & a dust cover from the carb. Getting the hole right for the drive shaft is tricky, but now allows pins to be greased up so minimal wear & dust free bearings, might replace these next year now
That's great confuse people more who have not owned an Xray and are considering getting one but are afraid of some crazy mod that is not necessary.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:08 PM
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So what? We should not share information? Maybe start a thread like "Don't read unless you already own a Xray"?
Give me a break!
If I can cut down on my maintenance I do.
This diff bearing thing is no secret.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ganymede
48.4mm according to my caliper...
Thanks, Mr. Mede. That is the overall length I'm looking for. One last detail if you wouldn't mind checking: what is the length between the head and start of the threads? I'm hoping it's right around 45mm. I'm looking to use these on my OD since my buggy and pipes tend to meet frequently
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Old 07-27-2010, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mthird
Thanks, Mr. Mede. That is the overall length I'm looking for. One last detail if you wouldn't mind checking: what is the length between the head and start of the threads? I'm hoping it's right around 45mm. I'm looking to use these on my OD since my buggy and pipes tend to meet frequently
From the bottom of the screw head to the tip of the thread is 46.4mm, the length of the thread is 6.2mm, unthreaded/polished body = 46.4-6.2 = 40.2mm
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ganymede
From the bottom of the screw head to the tip of the thread is 46.4mm, the length of the thread is 6.2mm, unthreaded/polished body = 46.4-6.2 = 40.2mm
Thanks for the info! It looks like it won't work for me but your help saved me $10.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:54 PM
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Now to keep the transaction of ideas square, you owe him half of what he helped you save, haha!
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rmargiotta
Now to keep the transaction of ideas square, you owe him half of what he helped you save, haha!

i see a cup of coffee coming my way...
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:40 PM
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How about Keurig cup?

:-D
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bren Ralls
Done the shock bladder tip then did some thinking, came up with this which does the trick but make maintaining easier.
Parts used 09 bearing composite spacer glued to the bulkhead & a dust cover from the carb. Getting the hole right for the drive shaft is tricky, but now allows pins to be greased up so minimal wear & dust free bearings, might replace these next year now
I could never think of the best way to seal that area. Rock on...........
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by scwrod
So what? We should not share information? Maybe start a thread like "Don't read unless you already own a Xray"?
Give me a break!
If I can cut down on my maintenance I do.
This diff bearing thing is no secret.
couldn't agree more..this is what these threads are for..sharing ideas and mods that while not "necessary" help to increase the durability of these buggies and/or ease maintenance..no one has said this has to be done but seeing other peoples solutions is always interesting.It is to me anyway.Photos of my dust cover added too..I just bought a pack of felt circles,punched a hole,and glued em on..I think the pack was 70 cents for 24..As I rarely remove the dogbone but pull it out rearwards through the diff housing and dismantle the pinion pivots for inspection each time I rebuild I can replace or service all 3 bearings without pulling the bone end of the cvd through the felt.Additionally I can just fit the end of the thin tube that comes with my kalgard chain lube that I use for lubing the cvd pins through the hole in the felt anyway so I can give em a squirt between stripdowns.I just add a spot of thick grease where the shaft goes through to form a seal.

Be nice if xray could come out with a diff housing with a small lip around the hole that would take either a specific made boot or just fit a carb slide boot or something..hmmm I got a bunch of those kicking around so maybe I can make up a lip and glue it on.Got a spare set of bulkheads too ..new mod on it's way..I can feel the idea growing.hehe
Attached Thumbnails New XRAY 808-img_3738.jpg   New XRAY 808-img_3737.jpg  
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:50 AM
  #7590  
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One quick trip to the garage later....OK blue bits are from k-factory center cvd's for the kyosho mp777 sp2..sold in packs of 4 for about 10 bucks or less..got mine here http://www.the-border.com/product.ph...5&cat=0&page=1

black are xray composite bearing cups as used by bren ralls above..boots are a nice tight fit over the composite housing and are stretchy enough to easily allow fitting and removal of the cvd shaft.I'll be fitting these later...gonna be a really "factory fit" look I think.
Attached Thumbnails New XRAY 808-img_3739.jpg  
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