New XRAY 808

Old 07-24-2010, 09:07 AM
  #7546  
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Oh one more thing that depends on your track also, our track has large jumps thats why am more concerned about the consistency of the shocks.

Here is the vid from our last race in march if i am not mistaken...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJdkjjhsS7Y
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:28 AM
  #7547  
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Originally Posted by shesha
I had tested the the shocks with the foams with the old bladders not the new ribbed ones, tested them out with the high density shock bladder foams from kyosho mp9, it was to much for my liking, i switched out to a lesser density foam that i punch out with the pin tool using air filter foams used ones not new ones cleaned up from all the grease they worked nicely but still had some higher reaction to my liking am thinking with the hole it would be perfect try it out, just pay attention to the different density of the foams they do make the shocks react differently.
yeah I have cut some from a new but old LRP yellow foam.. which is very soft... I have heard a few people switch between AKA foam and PL or softer track dependant. Yeah, thats the main reason keeping them off for now, as my worry with them in and no vent hole.. it would play havoc/could cause more pain than gain.... and just put me off more than anything. But will likely, get some new caps- could do with some new ones anyway and drill the old one's.. and try.. then If don't like it stick with the stock ones.. and maybe try the ribbed bladders.. its one of those small things to tinker with and test/try..
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:42 AM
  #7548  
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Coming from a Factory XRAY driver...

The vented shock mod is something you should try. It is easier to do than building the shocks straight out of the kit.

This is how I do it after discussing with Tex (tex1):
- Chuck up my body reamer in my drill press and drill holes until they just pass completely through the shock cap. This should yield a ~1.2mm hole.
- BUY THE LOSI FOAM - it is pre-formed and the same from package to package. It's density is perfect for the application, and it takes all the guess work out of the trial and error process many of you are discussing in the last few pages.
Losi Part Number LOS-A5431
- Carefully trim it to the right height to fill the void between the bladder and shock cap.
- Build per Adam Drake Video. Yes it is that simple... Push shaft in to set desired rebound, screw cap on...done...

THE RIBBED BLADDERS ARE BETTER THAN STOCK, BUT DON'T COME CLOSE THE THE VENTED MOD. THEY DON'T REPLACE THE VENTED MOD.

This mod makes a dramatic change on the track, not only can you easily control the rebound, it stays consistent over long mains. And you don't have to touch the shocks unless dirt gets in them (oil is black).

Rocco

Last edited by rmargiotta; 07-25-2010 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:44 AM
  #7549  
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Rocco,

I actually have all of the stuff for doing this mod sitting on my bench now and was going to do it today. (Losi foams etc....) Are you using the ribbed bladders with the vented caps and foam or are you using the original non-ribbed shock bladders?
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:46 AM
  #7550  
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Oh yea.... has anyone tried this vented shock mod on the XT8. Any benefit to doing it on the truggy?
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:32 AM
  #7551  
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I am using the ribbed bladders, but I have a hunch they're going to work better with the stock bladders. I plan on building them up with the stock bladders and trying them soon.

I have not run them on the truck as I don't run truck anymore, but I could see them working very well.

Rocco
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:10 AM
  #7552  
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Can someone explain why the center diff holes and engine mount holes are not on the same plane? Looking from the end of the chassis, the diff holes are perfectly straight whereas the engine holes are at an angle.
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:22 AM
  #7553  
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy
Can someone explain why the center diff holes and engine mount holes are not on the same plane? Looking from the end of the chassis, the diff holes are perfectly straight whereas the engine holes are at an angle.
If you look at your manual you will see that the engine mounts at an angle to the center diff. It is nit straight and it is nit meant to be. I think they did this for two reasons:
1 to give the rear CVD some more clearence and 2 to postion the weight better
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:22 AM
  #7554  
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy
Can someone explain why the center diff holes and engine mount holes are not on the same plane? Looking from the end of the chassis, the diff holes are perfectly straight whereas the engine holes are at an angle.
actually if you draw two lines, one perpendicular from the center diff opening and another perpendicular to the engine flywheel opening u will notice that both lines will converge at a point somewhere in front (very close to the front bumper) dead right smack in the center line of the chassis...
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:20 AM
  #7555  
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I understand both concepts, but setting gear mesh so the teeth are hitting evenly across the face of the tooth is quite tough. Seems as though they should have made the center diff square with the engine mount so you don't get uneven wear between the diff and clutchbell.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:28 AM
  #7556  
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Originally Posted by ganymede
actually if you draw two lines, one perpendicular from the center diff opening and another perpendicular to the engine flywheel opening u will notice that both lines will converge at a point somewhere in front (very close to the front bumper) dead right smack in the center line of the chassis...

Doesn't answer my question. I'm not asking if the engine/diff are in the center, I'm asking why the are not on the same plane. The engine mounts are machined on a different plane in relation to the center diff. Trivial I"m sure , but it will cause uneven wear across the teeth on the spur and clutchbell.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:40 AM
  #7557  
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy
Doesn't answer my question. I'm not asking if the engine/diff are in the center, I'm asking why the are not on the same plane. The engine mounts are machined on a different plane in relation to the center diff. Trivial I"m sure , but it will cause uneven wear across the teeth on the spur and clutchbell.
They did it for weight distribution and if you notice, when the clutch bell and spur aren't fully engaged, you don't eat clutch bearings. When I set my mesh, the clutch bell and the spur aren't fully engaged.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:40 AM
  #7558  
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As mentioned above....motor and center diff aren't in the same plane so they could keep the motor as close to the center line as they could as well as give enough room for the center shaft.

Uneven gear wear is a non-issue. You will need to replace the clutch bell due to clutch shoe wear long before the teeth wear. As far as the spur gear goes, the only one I have ever worn out was one I ran for over a calendar year and had around (maybe more than) 15-20 gallons on it.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:53 AM
  #7559  
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I agree. I have been setting my gear mesh according to the manual ( at an angle) and it works just fine and I dont get premature wear on anything
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:01 PM
  #7560  
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Cool, thanks for the replies. I never looked at the manual If clutch bearings last longer and wear between the cb and spur is minimal , that's good enough for me.
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