New XRAY 808

Old 07-23-2010, 01:57 PM
  #7531  
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Originally Posted by juzza99
Ive found with the ribbed bladders ,that you dont need to run the foam in the cap.
The ribbed bladders are better than standard, but foam compensators inside vented caps gives the best performance and consistancy in long races.
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:20 PM
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Bren R gave me a good tip on xray forum about making cheap foam compensator.

Just use the cvd pin removal tool and use your old foam tires, use the tool to punch them out.

Perfect fit and clean cut.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
Srt: Let your car get cold. Fire up your engine and hold your car. Rev up and down repeatedly for a minute leting the tires balloon and stop, balloon and stop.

Not long enough for your engine to heat soak the chassis.

Then reach in and put your finger on your rear CVD, it shouldn't be warm. Compare to the front.

If your shimmed wrong the gear friction will heat up the pinion which will heat up the CVD pivot. You don't need much load. Just accelerating and stopping your tires in the air should do.

I noticed this right away from my experience trying to get reliable with the 41t overdrive gear. I went back to the 43t.
Did it today for about 2-3 minutes and the rear center drive shaft was warm. The front was good. I only have 1 thin shim in the rear on the ring side. Going to pull it out and try again.
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:22 PM
  #7534  
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Originally Posted by shesha
Bren R gave me a good tip on xray forum about making cheap foam compensator.

Just use the cvd pin removal tool and use your old foam tires, use the tool to punch them out.

Perfect fit and clean cut.
Nice Like they say - where there is a will there's is a way
Lucky I happen to have a Hudy pin removal tool and a set of just worn out last weekend VP Pro 802's
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:51 PM
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I think I'm gonna give this a try myself...I have plenty of the precut kyosho foams kicking around..
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:21 AM
  #7536  
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Hey guys, if you use foam compensator.. home made/made ones.. do you have to drill and hole in the cap or not. As I would like to try the foam inside.. as heard + from them. But wondering if you have to have a hole in the cap.. reason I ask.. is have a race tomorrow, I have made some but don't have a small enough drill bit for a hole in the cap. And wasn't sure if running them without the hole.. was a good idea.. so taken them back out for now? cheers
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:34 AM
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i have raced for a while with just foam no drilling i have to bleed the shocks alittle more but it seems fine , like u i am going to try and drill , i mostly drive on jump tracks so the extra pack at the end of the stroke is nice,
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:39 AM
  #7538  
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Yeah.. I might just wait.. and get the right drill bit then do it.. as 1 the ones I have made are shabby.. and don't want to end up hyrdo locking them.. so will keep them out for tomorrow. Maybe drill and try the foams after at a test day or something.. don't want to risk it..

Thanks for the reply.. mine are all done and set now.. so will leave them.. what size holes are people drilling? same asa the other cap hole I presume but on the top..
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:15 AM
  #7539  
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Originally Posted by srt4s
Did it today for about 2-3 minutes and the rear center drive shaft was warm. The front was good. I only have 1 thin shim in the rear on the ring side. Going to pull it out and try again.
Might be the pinion moving around. Check out your bearings and spin the center shaft (rear assemble removed of course), while spinning the center shaft can you push and pull on the shaft and feel the mesh change?

Obviuously you shouldbe able to wiggle the shaft in and out a little, but the mesh should stay constant. You can shim the pinion in or out with th e same shims your diffs take.

Usually the rear is easier to get right. The front is the hard one as it deos most of the work in 1/8th scale.
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:32 AM
  #7540  
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Thumbs up For testing....

Jamie -
You do want the hole in the top of the cap. The foam takes the place and preforms the job of the air above the bladder. With the air, sometimes when you hit hard, some of that air can seep out. Hydraulics vs. pneumatics. The air will not come back in. This is where the inconsistency comes in.

The foam is more exact, easier to control the resistance and with a proper vent hole will always come back to original shape.

I found another interesting place to get foam that is the right size. Old mouse pads are all 5 - 6 mm thick and are the right density.

Hope this helps,
TEX
<-------- Not done yet!
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:43 AM
  #7541  
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yeah.. think I will try that next week.. if can find the right size drill bit.. at test session. Yeah heard alot of + with doing the mods in the losi part.. but not as many bob owner's. I know they have the new ribbed bladder's.. but not sure how much better they are/would be. May ask some of the Xray team tomorrow and see what they recommend/do..

Prefer to do them and try them/test them than do them before a race day and find out.. I didn't do it right or something and have issues haha
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:46 AM
  #7542  
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Question about converting a 2009 808 to a 2010 808, is it a prettty easy conversion and what parts are needed? Making the switch to Xray and found a really good deal on a 2009 buggy. Thanks in advance for the help.

Jon
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:09 AM
  #7543  
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I think A Main has the 2010 conversion for around $160. I haven't looked anywhere else, but you may be able to find it cheaper.
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jamiekerr14
Yeah.. I might just wait.. and get the right drill bit then do it.. as 1 the ones I have made are shabby.. and don't want to end up hyrdo locking them.. so will keep them out for tomorrow. Maybe drill and try the foams after at a test day or something.. don't want to risk it..

Thanks for the reply.. mine are all done and set now.. so will leave them.. what size holes are people drilling? same asa the other cap hole I presume but on the top..
I had tested the the shocks with the foams with the old bladders not the new ribbed ones, tested them out with the high density shock bladder foams from kyosho mp9, it was to much for my liking, i switched out to a lesser density foam that i punch out with the pin tool using air filter foams used ones not new ones cleaned up from all the grease they worked nicely but still had some higher reaction to my liking am thinking with the hole it would be perfect try it out, just pay attention to the different density of the foams they do make the shocks react differently.
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:04 AM
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conversion

you could use a BCE 2009 chassis
and add the 2010 bulkheads...
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