New XRAY 808
#7531
#7532

Bren R gave me a good tip on xray forum about making cheap foam compensator.
Just use the cvd pin removal tool and use your old foam tires, use the tool to punch them out.
Perfect fit and clean cut.
Just use the cvd pin removal tool and use your old foam tires, use the tool to punch them out.
Perfect fit and clean cut.

#7533

Srt: Let your car get cold. Fire up your engine and hold your car. Rev up and down repeatedly for a minute leting the tires balloon and stop, balloon and stop.
Not long enough for your engine to heat soak the chassis.
Then reach in and put your finger on your rear CVD, it shouldn't be warm. Compare to the front.
If your shimmed wrong the gear friction will heat up the pinion which will heat up the CVD pivot. You don't need much load. Just accelerating and stopping your tires in the air should do.
I noticed this right away from my experience trying to get reliable with the 41t overdrive gear. I went back to the 43t.
Not long enough for your engine to heat soak the chassis.
Then reach in and put your finger on your rear CVD, it shouldn't be warm. Compare to the front.
If your shimmed wrong the gear friction will heat up the pinion which will heat up the CVD pivot. You don't need much load. Just accelerating and stopping your tires in the air should do.
I noticed this right away from my experience trying to get reliable with the 41t overdrive gear. I went back to the 43t.
#7534



Lucky I happen to have a Hudy pin removal tool and a set of just worn out last weekend VP Pro 802's

#7536
Tech Addict

Hey guys, if you use foam compensator.. home made/made ones.. do you have to drill and hole in the cap or not. As I would like to try the foam inside.. as heard + from them. But wondering if you have to have a hole in the cap.. reason I ask.. is have a race tomorrow, I have made some but don't have a small enough drill bit for a hole in the cap. And wasn't sure if running them without the hole.. was a good idea.. so taken them back out for now? cheers
#7537

i have raced for a while with just foam no drilling i have to bleed the shocks alittle more but it seems fine , like u i am going to try and drill , i mostly drive on jump tracks so the extra pack at the end of the stroke is nice,
#7538
Tech Addict

Yeah.. I might just wait.. and get the right drill bit then do it.. as 1 the ones I have made are shabby.. and don't want to end up hyrdo locking them.. so will keep them out for tomorrow. Maybe drill and try the foams after at a test day or something.. don't want to risk it..
Thanks for the reply.. mine are all done and set now.. so will leave them.. what size holes are people drilling? same asa the other cap hole I presume but on the top..
Thanks for the reply.. mine are all done and set now.. so will leave them.. what size holes are people drilling? same asa the other cap hole I presume but on the top..
#7539

Obviuously you shouldbe able to wiggle the shaft in and out a little, but the mesh should stay constant. You can shim the pinion in or out with th e same shims your diffs take.
Usually the rear is easier to get right. The front is the hard one as it deos most of the work in 1/8th scale.
#7540
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)

Jamie -
You do want the hole in the top of the cap. The foam takes the place and preforms the job of the air above the bladder. With the air, sometimes when you hit hard, some of that air can seep out. Hydraulics vs. pneumatics. The air will not come back in. This is where the inconsistency comes in.
The foam is more exact, easier to control the resistance and with a proper vent hole will always come back to original shape.
I found another interesting place to get foam that is the right size. Old mouse pads are all 5 - 6 mm thick and are the right density.
Hope this helps,
TEX
<-------- Not done yet!
You do want the hole in the top of the cap. The foam takes the place and preforms the job of the air above the bladder. With the air, sometimes when you hit hard, some of that air can seep out. Hydraulics vs. pneumatics. The air will not come back in. This is where the inconsistency comes in.
The foam is more exact, easier to control the resistance and with a proper vent hole will always come back to original shape.
I found another interesting place to get foam that is the right size. Old mouse pads are all 5 - 6 mm thick and are the right density.
Hope this helps,
TEX

#7541
Tech Addict

yeah.. think I will try that next week.. if can find the right size drill bit.. at test session. Yeah heard alot of + with doing the mods in the losi part.. but not as many bob owner's. I know they have the new ribbed bladder's.. but not sure how much better they are/would be. May ask some of the Xray team tomorrow and see what they recommend/do..
Prefer to do them and try them/test them than do them before a race day and find out.. I didn't do it right or something and have issues haha
Prefer to do them and try them/test them than do them before a race day and find out.. I didn't do it right or something and have issues haha
#7543

I think A Main has the 2010 conversion for around $160. I haven't looked anywhere else, but you may be able to find it cheaper.
#7544

Yeah.. I might just wait.. and get the right drill bit then do it.. as 1 the ones I have made are shabby.. and don't want to end up hyrdo locking them.. so will keep them out for tomorrow. Maybe drill and try the foams after at a test day or something.. don't want to risk it..
Thanks for the reply.. mine are all done and set now.. so will leave them.. what size holes are people drilling? same asa the other cap hole I presume but on the top..
Thanks for the reply.. mine are all done and set now.. so will leave them.. what size holes are people drilling? same asa the other cap hole I presume but on the top..
#7545

conversion
you could use a BCE 2009 chassis
and add the 2010 bulkheads...
you could use a BCE 2009 chassis
and add the 2010 bulkheads...