rmargiotta

iTrader: (59)

I run the new bladders with foams similar to the video. As long as you keep the oil clean (run boots) you don't have to change anything in the shock. I ran the same set of shocks for an entire clubrace weekend and they were flawless. We have a very high speed double -> table top -> double rhythm section down the back straight and I didn't HAVE to downside the jumps to keep the car from being hard to drive, I could pin it through the whole section.

As far as the nut protruding into the bladder, I don't see this as an issue as it will never pinch the bladder between the shaft and the cap.

Zerodefect

I've been beating on my shocks and they hold up awesome. I've never noticed any wear from the shaft hitting the bladder.

Mt HB D8t hits the bladder alot harder than my 809. No problems there. But I change my bladders eventually. Maybe once a season?

I don't run front boots on my cars. I did notice better steering. As if I went a turn less preload, or a lighter spring.

I also like to polish my shafts with a dremel and either the dremel orange polishing compound or Turtle Wax chrome polish. I don't chuck the shaft. I just hold it with a pair of cutter and run the dremel over it. I noticed my shocks leak less and orings last longer. But when the green oring slime wears off the smoother shafts pull on the orings harder.

Anyone tried syth grease for orings instead of Ae green slime or Noleen seal goo?

Usually I run boots on the rear but not allways. I can buy alot of fluid and orings for the cost of replacement boots when they tear.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

In our last season races I had consistency issues with the shocks, after putting some orings on the shaft to cushion the impact the shocks handled better, its not a complaint just an observation, would have thought thats why xray released the new bladders...

grizz1

If you do have a problem with the nut denting the bladder, running foams under the bladder will solve this problem by not letting the bladder dent or collapse inwards (use the newer ribbed bladders as well). Seems everyone is running foams with a vented cap these days, and it does seem to improve performance and consistancy over long finals. I am guessing X-Ray will release vented caps and foams as optional parts in the near future like Lost etc.
Sometimes X-Ray is a little behind the others in releasing things like that as factory options, which is not a bad thing. Some things can be fads that don't really help performance or turn out to be a liability after a while. At least with X-Ray you know they have seen what's happening out there and if they do release an optional product, you know it is worth spending your dollars on.

rmargiotta

iTrader: (59)

Damn, that's a lot of work. Then

I have always just used shock oil to assemble the oring/shim stack and haven't ever had a problem.

Yeah the new bladders were supposed to be a halfway thing between the vented foam and stock bladders. The new bladders helped a lot with the consistency but when you vent them and use the foam, it turns the car into a totally different animal.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Okay I missed out on the vent thing, the current 808 09 spec i have has a bleed hole are we talking about a vent hole above the bladder area ?

grizz1

Yep that's correct. You need to drill a small vent hole in the top of the cap, seperate to the bleed hole on the side. Then you add Losi (or similar) foam compensators between the bladder and the cap.

dandrat

iTrader: (5)

I have to say this thread is consistently the most perfectionist, hardcore of all the car centric threads out there. no hair can go unsplit on this car. which is to say always a good read, Even though the car is already great to begin with.

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

it can be quite technical and academic at times but i am loving every bit of it!

it is always great to see everyone share their vast experience here...

808gx7r

i have rebuilt my shock many times. but i have never come across this... when i push my car down (rear shocks) it stays down. took them off. took out the oil and it seems to lock up sorta...(when going up and down with the rod...)

can someone advise whats wrong???

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

you tightened the piston nut to much which warped your piston and is causing it to lock up in the shock body. loosen the nut

808gx7r

but how can i of done that? i never touch them...
plus its happend to both shocks

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

My most vastest experiences are with crashing, and I can say the 808.809, and 810 take a beating like no other buggy out there and keep coming back for more

grizz1

I am thinking a bent shock shaft ??? Only other thing that could jam is the piston if it's got out of shape somehow (maybe done up a little tight and got squashed outwards). My money would be on a bent shock shaft though.

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

take the nut off and remove the piston. make sure not to lose the little shim that goes under the piston. It is possible that your pistons are just worn out and warped and need to be replaced. If you dont replace them every so often the shim will wear into the piston hole and the shock shaft will make its way in there and ruin things causing it to bind. If you take it apart and it all looks good then put it back together and do not overtighten the nut. You will feel if its good when you push the shaft up and down. make sure you have at least 1-2 threads sticking up past the Nylon on the end of the piston nut