New XRAY 808

Old 01-03-2010, 11:56 PM
  #6226  
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Originally Posted by codyfruge
I use the AVID bearings but don't think they are any better than other bearings out there. They still need to be checked every race to make sure they don't cause a DNF. Also used these same bearing in my mugen and had the same results. All bearing regardless of the "brand name" need to be taken care of.
I should qualify my statement more here. What I should have said was I used the same brand of bearing all season, not the same actual bearing all season Now that would be real good bearing !!!
I changed the bulkhead bearings a few times during the year, and the outdrive, wheel bearings etc as required (not often).

Originally Posted by codyfruge
I used the Carbon Xray break pads for a short time. They are "not" intended for the truggy. They will get to hot and fade. I didn't have a problem with them on the buggy, but still went back to the stock pads and disc.

On my 2010 I have had great results with 5-5-3 diffs, 500f 300r shocks with 1.5 shock pistons front and 1.3 rear. New chassis made the buggy more stable and I can push it harder with out having to worry about the buggy getting upset.
Snap !! I run 5-5-3 diffs, 500 front and 350 rear shocks with the same size pistons and the softer grey springs all round on my 09 - nice. I also run an overdriven 41T front diff. Makes the X-Ray even more nimble than it already is.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:03 AM
  #6227  
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Originally Posted by merdith6
On the 808 the two bearings that are on either side of the spacer still have play when assembled. You can check me if you want by grabbing the center shaft and pushing it in and out. Sure some play is ok but it's excessive and will slam into the bearings on jumps as so on and cause the shield to pop off. I know they usually don't, but I like to use a shim between the outside bearing and the gear to take up this play, and move in the mesh just bit to make it perfect, and will keep bearings happy, and the gears from wearing funny and faster than normal due to the back and forth motion, even with the spacer and the 3 scrws locked down. I ordered some more shims for the kyosho diffs, one is silver, thin, and one is brass and is thick, I use the one thick brass shim in between the outside exposed bearing and the gear, the gear that is attatched to the center driveshaft. You still want to change the bearings a little more often than say a mugen or kyosho in that area, but this little fix is what keeps my car in tip top shape. If you want to you can use a thinner one but they get chewed up easier. Upon assembly slide the shim over the driveshaft, then the outside bearing, then insert it into the bulkhead, then slide the bearing spacer on then the inside bearing with the avid bearing with the metal shield facing the diff then tighten down on the three screws carefully and not too tight, just till it stops. Your car should be perfect. The gear spacing may be a little tight, but not binding in any way, just a slight tick. As you drive your car it will break in and seat and last much longer without the center shaft moving in and out causing the bearings undo stress.....
It's not the bearings moving - it's the pinnion !! Unlike other models the X-Ray works with a little play in the pinion. I wouldn't shim anything extra.
The diffs work superbly (probably one of the strongest and best meshing diffs in the business) assembled just as the instruction manual says.
I would say jamming shims in there would cause more damage than anything. Just my opinion. If it's not broken, don't try and fix it.
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:25 AM
  #6228  
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i remove the steel sheilds as some people i know have experianced the sheild coming out and then falling into the diff gears
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:28 AM
  #6229  
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i also use the mugen diff shims they are easier and faster toi do the shimming with if you use the 16 mm bearings instead of the 14 mm ones in the kit ...


i have found my self changing the wheel bearings more so than any other bearing in the buggy
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:51 AM
  #6230  
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Originally Posted by jk1152
As far as brakes go I'm using kyosho 777WC / STR pads they use ACRE brake pad material and do not fade. I use them with the stock 808 2008/2009 vented disks. I don't think they would work as good with the 2010 non-vented disks.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Pad-MP777-WC

And I do not understand why Xray uses threaded screws, brake pads do not "slide" as easy on thread screws. Get these and your brakes will be more consistent.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Spacer-3x6mm-4

Also The best exhaust mount is

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ire-Pipe-Mount

This is my latest brake pads. I've done the avid indigo with harden xray calipers. They were very good for ~5 gallons or so. After a while the harden calipers get grooves in them and the Avid indigo will get sloppy where it sits on the diff cup. But for 5 gallons that's a pretty good value. Just wanted to try something different with the Kyosho pads they are a direct fit onto the xray. Even if you use the Avid, I'd recommend the screws I linked above for smoother brake action.
Did you get the Kyosho bonded pads to fit without modification? I had to slot the hole on one side of the pad to get mine to fit. The posts mount holes are closer together on the 808 vs the Kyosho.

They work fine after the modification.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:24 AM
  #6231  
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Originally Posted by razo125
Did you get the Kyosho bonded pads to fit without modification? I had to slot the hole on one side of the pad to get mine to fit. The posts mount holes are closer together on the 808 vs the Kyosho.

They work fine after the modification.


they have to be dremeled on a little bit to get them to work correctly but he is right they are the best. i haver run them like this since the standard XB8, never could get the avids to work right and the stock are good but these kyosho pads last fooorrreeeevvvveeerr
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:34 AM
  #6232  
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+! on that..the kyosho acre bonded pads are better than anything else I've tried both for stopping power and lack of wear.I have run 2 complete seasons racing plus bashing on the sp2 with the same pads in and if they have worn 0.5mm total across both pads I'd be surprised.I'm gonna see if I can get the kyosho centre diff outdrives to fit the xray diff so I can use my k-factory discs as well..now that's braking power.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:55 AM
  #6233  
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Hey guys! I've been reading on here to try and get up to speed on the Xray as I am getting signed on to them. I've witnessed someone with a wheel bearing fall apart on an Xray. Since then I've not seen a single issue with bearings. A friend of mine also races for Xray and he has had great luck with his. So, what I'm asking is what am I looking for as far as maintenance? Is it the Pinion Bearings that are causing trouble? If so, what has been successful for maintenance? I will try to find some answers on the Xray forum as well.

Thanks,

Ben Burtle
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:03 AM
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well just got the calipers on the 2 sets of diff outdrives..the kyosho are heavier (12.4g from 8.8g ) but they are also longer so the cvd's sit further inside and taper out from the 8mm for the cvd ball to sit in.so I can grind that off a bit and the inner shaft is also 1.5mm longer so can be ground off too..The crucial distance from the back of the cvd cup to the hole for the pin that secures the pinion is the same.Shaft diameter is exactly the same too.I'm gonna give this a try.I'll post some pics later.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:05 AM
  #6235  
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i cant answer that one...on ours we have not had any failures to speak of...except driver concentration LOL.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:17 AM
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I'm considering the 808-10, but I keep reading things regarding the xrays, like: try these screws, and the kyosho disks and mugen shims, replace the bearings and you'll be ok, and so on. And the chassi changes at least once a year.

Do you have to read the big "xray modding bible" and buy parts ands screws for other brands to make it work flawlessly?
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:37 AM
  #6237  
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Originally Posted by casevac
I'm considering the 808-10, but I keep reading things regarding the xrays, like: try these screws, and the kyosho disks and mugen shims, replace the bearings and you'll be ok, and so on. And the chassi changes at least once a year.

Do you have to read the big "xray modding bible" and buy parts ands screws for other brands to make it work flawlessly?
No mods needed!! The 808 is bad ars right out of the box!!
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:40 AM
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everything on ours is from xray..we use the carbon disc they sell and have been fade free..we do use the Kyosho pads on our XT8 though.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:18 AM
  #6239  
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Originally Posted by casevac
I'm considering the 808-10, but I keep reading things regarding the xrays, like: try these screws, and the kyosho disks and mugen shims, replace the bearings and you'll be ok, and so on. And the chassi changes at least once a year.

Do you have to read the big "xray modding bible" and buy parts ands screws for other brands to make it work flawlessly?
For all the kits run as std, I & many of the factory team test parts for hours before they are ever released so know them to be reliable if used in the manor they where designed for. Any of the mods that are being talked about here are not required & personally see why peolpe get failures or have problems when they persist like this, please run the 09 or new 2010 spec cars as std. You can put option parts on them which thens gives a greater range of adjustments & makes maintenance easier in some cases.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:26 AM
  #6240  
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Originally Posted by warpig
Hey guys! I've been reading on here to try and get up to speed on the Xray as I am getting signed on to them. I've witnessed someone with a wheel bearing fall apart on an Xray. Since then I've not seen a single issue with bearings. A friend of mine also races for Xray and he has had great luck with his. So, what I'm asking is what am I looking for as far as maintenance? Is it the Pinion Bearings that are causing trouble? If so, what has been successful for maintenance? I will try to find some answers on the Xray forum as well.

Thanks,

Ben Burtle
Ben if you are being sign up welcome aboard. The only area to keep an eye on is the pinion gear bearings & front pinion pin.
The manual tells you everything you need to know just keep an eye on the pin as it wears because of the angle it runs but is good for 5 hours of use easy.
Pinion bearings have now changed for 2010 kits & are bigger in diameter so will last longer. Simple check is remove them from the housing & hold inner race between index finger & thumb. With other hand now hold outer race if this gets side to side play replace it as its on the way out & will cost you a diff gear & pinion.
Other parts are just regular maintenance & easy to check.

Enjoy the ride
Bren
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