My First Day
01-29-2008, 11:22 AM
#1
My First Day
...
Last edited by allyv; 01-24-2009 at 03:16 AM.
01-29-2008, 02:26 PM
#2
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cool! welcome to the addiction i mean hobby 
01-29-2008, 11:05 PM
#3
Hey,
today was my first experience of a nitro truck,
I have never driven any other nitro viechle ever,
So i came home from school, filled the tank up,
glow plug ignitor in EZ start in and....... Nothing,
So as i am a beginner i didn't know what to do,
but i had some idea,
I checked the glow plug,
I made sure the fuel was getting to the engine,
Made sure engine wasn't flooded,
But then i tried heating it with hair dryer as i had read this somewhere(btw my truck was second from Ebay) so after i heated it up abit it started quickly.
So after trying it out on my drive and realising it was too fast for my small drive,
we took it to the local football pitch,
then we had a few turns each, I was so impressed by it (even though it is not tuned properly) it was so fast. but the acceleration was abit slow.
So i was having my last go when it slowed down abit for some reason so i revved it then a massive flame came out of the side of it, so we ran over to it and the exhaust had come off,
So we went home and sucured it better.
Great First Day,
Nitro is Amzing.
AllyV
today was my first experience of a nitro truck,
I have never driven any other nitro viechle ever,
So i came home from school, filled the tank up,
glow plug ignitor in EZ start in and....... Nothing,
So as i am a beginner i didn't know what to do,
but i had some idea,
I checked the glow plug,
I made sure the fuel was getting to the engine,
Made sure engine wasn't flooded,
But then i tried heating it with hair dryer as i had read this somewhere(btw my truck was second from Ebay) so after i heated it up abit it started quickly.
So after trying it out on my drive and realising it was too fast for my small drive,
we took it to the local football pitch,
then we had a few turns each, I was so impressed by it (even though it is not tuned properly) it was so fast. but the acceleration was abit slow.
So i was having my last go when it slowed down abit for some reason so i revved it then a massive flame came out of the side of it, so we ran over to it and the exhaust had come off,
So we went home and sucured it better.
Great First Day,
Nitro is Amzing.
AllyV
You need to learn how to tune,Took me a while to learn how but now i got it down really good.
01-30-2008, 03:27 AM
#4
it sounds to me like he got it out of the box and held it flat, could explain the slow acceleration, bumma about the big flame out, i sure hope he broke it in..
01-30-2008, 05:12 AM
#5
From what i read, he got it second hand off ebay. So you would assume it was run-in already? Sounds to me AllyV that you have a bit of a tuning issue..... here's a little bit of info i found on another site...
"There are hundreds of posts like this one all over the net. One of the most important things in the posts that follow is most always left out. This would be the Air gap/idle setting on the carb slide. You can’t tune an engine if this is not set right. In order to tune an engine properly this gap should be set to somewhere between 1.0mm to 1.5mm no more or less than that to start. There is a specific ratio to fuel & air mixture that these engines are designed to run at. Once the engine is tuned properly you can fine tune the idle some. Most of the time when this gap is set too small you will be running too lean on the bottom. This is because to get a nice idle with it that small you will have to lean it out or your idle will be to low. Also most of the time when this gap is set too big you will be fat on the bottom. This is because to get a nice idle you will have to richen it up or your idle will be too high. I keep a 1.5mm drill bit in my pit box to set this gap. Once this gap is set correctly fire the engine up and get it running good enough to put it on the track. Then run some hot laps to get some temp in it and bring it in and richen the top end to the point where it is not clearing out on the straights, this way you know it is fat for sure. Once you have done this start leaning the top end out to where it is just clearing out on the straights. After this bring it in to get the low end set close. When you do this pay attention to how the car comes in after being wide open on the straight. If the car went out on the track when you first put it down with a decent idle but is coming back in with a high idle for a while (8+ sec) and then settles back down then chances are you are too fat on the bottom. If this is so then lean the bottom out an hour until when it comes back in it stays high. Once you have done this you can set the idle/air gap to get the idle you are after, it won’t be much. (Once I have found this I will usually fatten the low end about an hour or so just to make sure) If when you are out running you hot laps you start to bog coming out of the corners and don’t see a good smoke trail chances are you are too lean on the bottom. Fatten the bottom until it is not lean bogging coming out of the corners, has a nice smoke trail and you have the power you are after on the low end. If this is the case and the idle is now too low bring the idle up using the air gap/idle screw, again it won’t be much. Once you get the low end set go back and re-tune the top end for performance with a good smoke trail."
Setting your nitro engine up that way is almost fool proof once you get it down. The other thing that is cool is this! Let’s say I have found the perfect tune on race day and then go out next week to race and the tune is a little off. What this tells me is my surroundings have changed i.e. temp, humidity and such. Let’s say after running my engine for a little bit I notice that the idle is a little high. What this tells me is the engine is now running a little lean due to changes in atmospheric conditions i.e. air temp & humidity. Most people at this point would simply turn the idle screw a bit to bring the idle down some. Buy doing this yes the idle will come down but chances are you are still running lean! The better thing to do would be to fatten up the low end some to bring the idle down. This will maintain the correct air gap on the carb slide and air/fuel mixture and you won't be running lean for the day. If you noticed that your engine is idling a little low at the start of a new day then the opposite would be true i.e. you would be a little fat on the bottom. If this is the case then lean out the bottom a little until the idle comes back to where you want and fine tune from there. Also now that you know that you were either a little lean or fat on the bottom chances are you are a little lean or fat on the top end for that day. So take a look at the top end after setting the bottom. If I have a day like this I will set the top again to where I know its rich i.e. not cleaning out on the straights and re-tune from there.
Hope this helps!
"There are hundreds of posts like this one all over the net. One of the most important things in the posts that follow is most always left out. This would be the Air gap/idle setting on the carb slide. You can’t tune an engine if this is not set right. In order to tune an engine properly this gap should be set to somewhere between 1.0mm to 1.5mm no more or less than that to start. There is a specific ratio to fuel & air mixture that these engines are designed to run at. Once the engine is tuned properly you can fine tune the idle some. Most of the time when this gap is set too small you will be running too lean on the bottom. This is because to get a nice idle with it that small you will have to lean it out or your idle will be to low. Also most of the time when this gap is set too big you will be fat on the bottom. This is because to get a nice idle you will have to richen it up or your idle will be too high. I keep a 1.5mm drill bit in my pit box to set this gap. Once this gap is set correctly fire the engine up and get it running good enough to put it on the track. Then run some hot laps to get some temp in it and bring it in and richen the top end to the point where it is not clearing out on the straights, this way you know it is fat for sure. Once you have done this start leaning the top end out to where it is just clearing out on the straights. After this bring it in to get the low end set close. When you do this pay attention to how the car comes in after being wide open on the straight. If the car went out on the track when you first put it down with a decent idle but is coming back in with a high idle for a while (8+ sec) and then settles back down then chances are you are too fat on the bottom. If this is so then lean the bottom out an hour until when it comes back in it stays high. Once you have done this you can set the idle/air gap to get the idle you are after, it won’t be much. (Once I have found this I will usually fatten the low end about an hour or so just to make sure) If when you are out running you hot laps you start to bog coming out of the corners and don’t see a good smoke trail chances are you are too lean on the bottom. Fatten the bottom until it is not lean bogging coming out of the corners, has a nice smoke trail and you have the power you are after on the low end. If this is the case and the idle is now too low bring the idle up using the air gap/idle screw, again it won’t be much. Once you get the low end set go back and re-tune the top end for performance with a good smoke trail."
Setting your nitro engine up that way is almost fool proof once you get it down. The other thing that is cool is this! Let’s say I have found the perfect tune on race day and then go out next week to race and the tune is a little off. What this tells me is my surroundings have changed i.e. temp, humidity and such. Let’s say after running my engine for a little bit I notice that the idle is a little high. What this tells me is the engine is now running a little lean due to changes in atmospheric conditions i.e. air temp & humidity. Most people at this point would simply turn the idle screw a bit to bring the idle down some. Buy doing this yes the idle will come down but chances are you are still running lean! The better thing to do would be to fatten up the low end some to bring the idle down. This will maintain the correct air gap on the carb slide and air/fuel mixture and you won't be running lean for the day. If you noticed that your engine is idling a little low at the start of a new day then the opposite would be true i.e. you would be a little fat on the bottom. If this is the case then lean out the bottom a little until the idle comes back to where you want and fine tune from there. Also now that you know that you were either a little lean or fat on the bottom chances are you are a little lean or fat on the top end for that day. So take a look at the top end after setting the bottom. If I have a day like this I will set the top again to where I know its rich i.e. not cleaning out on the straights and re-tune from there.
Hope this helps!
01-30-2008, 11:05 AM
#6
...
Last edited by allyv; 01-24-2009 at 03:17 AM.
02-07-2008, 09:20 PM
#7
you shouldn't have any problems getting a replacement part, even if you got it off ebay, what sort or car is it?
02-08-2008, 03:25 PM
#8
Thanks for the help,
the idle needle needs adjusting i think (from what i have read above) but the screw on the carburetter seems worn down and i can not turn it.
By the way the engine was fully run in before i got and i took it easy to begin with just in case anyway.
Also i have a BIG problem with the gear shifting servo, it will puush the bar into thetransmission box but will pull it out far enough (so i have to use my finger to push it) there fore can not go into reverse without having to push the bar with my finger, any tips ???
Or somewhere i can get a replacement ?
Thanks,
AllyV
the idle needle needs adjusting i think (from what i have read above) but the screw on the carburetter seems worn down and i can not turn it.
By the way the engine was fully run in before i got and i took it easy to begin with just in case anyway.
Also i have a BIG problem with the gear shifting servo, it will puush the bar into thetransmission box but will pull it out far enough (so i have to use my finger to push it) there fore can not go into reverse without having to push the bar with my finger, any tips ???
Or somewhere i can get a replacement ?
Thanks,
AllyV
wtf? it has reverse?
02-08-2008, 07:22 PM
#9
02-09-2008, 12:12 AM
#10
02-09-2008, 12:29 AM
#11
Before this gets out of hand and offtopic... Many cars come with reverse. Revo, LST2 etc. etc.
02-09-2008, 05:57 AM
#12
in my opinion, reverse is a waste of time, even when bashing, i have a LST1 with reverse, and it hardly gets used, only when im stuck against something it IS handy to have. if i had the money to burn i would chuck my 2-speed with reverse, and get a forward-only setup with single speed, just my 2cents
02-09-2008, 01:51 PM
#13
in my opinion, reverse is a waste of time, even when bashing, i have a LST1 with reverse, and it hardly gets used, only when im stuck against something it IS handy to have. if i had the money to burn i would chuck my 2-speed with reverse, and get a forward-only setup with single speed, just my 2cents
02-09-2008, 02:18 PM
#14
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the servo slides a fork back and forth for the forward and reverse. when flipped into reverse the fork moves and changes the rotation of the gears in the tranny therefore giving you reverse. the motor doesnt spin reverse its just a bunch of gears. reverse is pointless in any rc car my opinion.
02-09-2008, 07:54 PM
#15
the servo slides a fork back and forth for the forward and reverse. when flipped into reverse the fork moves and changes the rotation of the gears in the tranny therefore giving you reverse. the motor doesnt spin reverse its just a bunch of gears. reverse is pointless in any rc car my opinion.
how do you activate the reverse?