Damdog

iTrader: (1)

Today i tried to start my RC8 for the first time, and no luck. Granted the high today was only 40, i did use a blow dryer to warm the engine first. My questions are:
1. I am using the AE 1730 starter box- is this the right box to use ? Everytime i place the buggy on starter wheel, it shuts off. I am being aware that it is not rubbing against the chassis. So what gives ? And is anyone using the front posts and if you are, where are they suppossed to attach to the buggy ?
2. Are there any other tricks to starting this damm thing.

Thanks

kamlooper

iTrader: (7)

Is this your first nitro car? Is the engine brand new?

Damdog

iTrader: (1)

yes.

kmorast

Your starter box should work with the RC8. First make sure your batteries are fully charged. Then you must make sure the starter wheel is perfectly lined up with the chassis hole. If the wheel touches the chassis at all it will stop the starter. Take the engine out of the car and verify alignment. Use the starter box pegs to position the car correctly on the box. There's no perfect position for the pegs, just use them to keep the chassis from sliding forward or backwards and side to side.

Now that the chassis is correctly aligned you can attempt to start the engine. Keep heating the engine like you stated you were doing. Then before touching the starter wheel to the fly wheel let the starter box get up to speed.

If the engine still won't start make sure the piston isn't stuck at TDC. If the flywheel won't rock back in forth it's stuck. You will need to get it unstuck by turning the flywheel. Depending on how tight it is I will use a screw driver or I will take the engine out and use a wrench.

If it's not stuck you can get the engine to turn over a bit easier by loosening the glow plug. This will take some of the compression away. Once the engine starts use the glow igniter to tighten the glow plug back up and then finish with the glow igniter wrench.

I probably forgot something obvious.

Damdog

iTrader: (1)

Ok Ill try those things. Sounds like some good info.

kamlooper

iTrader: (7)

If you have an italian engine type it will be impossible to turn over when new. It has to be preheated to 150~200 degrees so the engine case will expand, allowing the piston to move freely in the cylinder. If you dont and you force it to turn over when so tight, you will stress many parts of your new engine and it will result in a failure.
Engine break in is the most critical time of an engines life.

petevette

iTrader: (13)

Man, for your first RC, you got a killer car. What engine do you have on it?

petevette

iTrader: (13)

Wrap the cooling fins with aluminum foil, it will help retain the heat from the blower.

damo666

Heat the engine upto 200 or a little more add a drop of after run oil and if you still have no luck loosen the glow plug 1 or 2 turns, but tighten once started.If its your first nitro car you might be better getting someone you know at a track to get the first couple of tanks throught it.Make sure you keep it around 200 degree's and that the piston is at the bottom of the stroke when you have finished each run.
This is the method i use to run in engines:
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

1- Few drops of after run oil down glow plug hole.
2- Install glow plug slightly loosened (about 1 turn out)
3- Heat engine up to about 200-250F using heat gun
4- Blow down pressure pipe so fuel gets pushed to the carb
5- Clip glow start on for about 5secs
6- Push down on starter box (which has a fully charged battery) and it should start
7- Tighten glow plug up then do your run-in method

I personaly like to do 1 tank at idle, then 4 tanks just blipping the car around then about another 4 tanks at about 1/2-3/4 throttle max on track (whilst still rich). Then i start setting a race tune but keep it on the rich side for about another 6-8 tanks. Hasn't let me down yet

Chaz