O.S. V-spec help
 

i have an os v-spec (NOT MODDED) AND I TOOK IT APART TO CLEAN IT AND CHECK ON IT AND THERE IS LIKE A LAYER OF COLOR ON THE ROD AND BUTTON AND THE ROD HAS ALOT OF PLAY ON THE CRANKSHAFT WAS IT BEING RAN TO RICH?
ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED ;)

I am guessing the colour is from the dye in your fuel....what kinda fuel are you using and also it is time to get a new rod...you usually have to replace them after about a gallon or so

I do agree that the color could be from your fuel but I have no clue what he is talking about when he said that you have to put a new rod in after a gallon I had one that had 5-6 gallons on it and it still ran like a top and I sold it to a guy that is going to race it this next year and I have a buddy that had I think he said 8 gallons on one and he never replaced the rod on it either. Thanks all I can help you with and good luck

alli can say is make sure that your useing the right run aka breakin method so that you arent causing massive stress on the conrod.

go to rc universe and you ll find a article which will explain how to break in the V-spec or any engine for that matter.

make sure that you run the engine on the rich side to lubricate the bearings and the engine in general not too rich though help from others if needed is a good idea(some one that knows how to tune well.

use aluminium foil around the head to aid in engine temp increase

use a good hair dryer or heat gun to heat the engine to right temp.

use a temp gun to help in knowing what temp the engine is at.

always Pre heat the engine so that it doesnt have such a hard time running.

after each tank make sure that the piston is at bottom dead center so that it does not get stuck at the top

let the engine cool and then do the same, heat up and then start it for another 3tanks and after that you should be running it at the track and tuneing for race use( not at fast pace as the engine is still running in).

please do read the artikle, this info is only from what i recall and i believe its 99% right but confirm this via the breakin artikle in RC universe.

also if you find it hard to know when the piston is bottom dead center, take the engine out take the exhaust of and look where the piston is and place at BDC and use a permanent texter and make a line on the bottom of the flywheel as a indicator of where the piston is at.

good luck and read the info on the web page and you ll be alright, if you didnt do it right and you see that there is damage on the rod connecting to the crank shaft, im afraid you ll need a new conrod.

What i meant was some, not all v-specs need a rod replacing after breakin becasue of the stress from running it in rich......my v-spec was luckley one of the ones that dident need a rod replacing.

it all ready has been broken in wit about a gallon through it and it dies if i run 2 tanks back to back or long periods of time

is it getting too hot?

Engine is most likely overheating. You must check your temps after running hard for about 4-5 minutes. This will determine if the engine is tuned correctly and if the right glowplug is being used.

its running between 220-240 witch is good and im using a p3 and the glow plugs are burning out like crazy like every 10 min

The color you see is from the dye in the fuel you use. The conn road play is there by design. There has to be some play to allow the oil from the fuel to get in between the rod and crank to provide lubrication. If you're not destroying glow plugs, then you don't need a new conn rod yet.

Run it! :nod:

skartisu plugs are burning out after 5 min Qs i go through 2 a day when one should last the whole weekend

Okay, then it's time for a conn rod. Also, if you're using OS P3 plugs, you could also try O'Donnell 97Ts instead. They're more durable than the P3s and work great.

im just wondering why would it need a new con rod cause the plugs are burning out?

If the conn rod gets sloppy enough, you run the risk of the piston touching the bottom of the glow plug, or causing more compression than normal which can also damage the coil inside the plug.

Is the coil getting distorted inside your plug?

Since we have no real idea of the engines condition, only by what your saying, did anyone else at track look at your engine and tell your what they think of its condition? The hotter plugs run a thinner wire than cold ones, so maybe step down to a P4 or P6 plug and try it again. The thinner wire needs more fuel to keep it cool or they burn out. Also, if the compression on the engine is low or the piston/sleeve is worn out it will eat glowplugs also. I have run into this issue with O.S. engines and their hot plugs. Since the hot plug will stay lit more than a cold one, you won't really know the tune of the engine since it stays running till the glowplug pops. Also, if the glow plug wire breaks, you need to take the engine apart, because if the filament pieces drops into the combustion chamber, will will scratch the piston and sleeve. The colder plugs requires better tuning to keep it running, but I also get better speed out of the colder plugs on an O.S. V Spec. The RB & Novarossi turbo plugs fit, but are a bit smaller on the conical taper. The RB #6 plug seemed to work the best for us, but like I said, its a bit smaller on the taper, but thats all we had around at the time. I tried an RB#5, but it was slower. Try to get a colder O.S. plug and keep the same needle settings first and see how it runs. But like I stated earlier, if the piston/sleeve compression is low, then that would most likely be the cause.

only run the P3 OS plug, you could try the OS P4 at a later date but stick with the OS P3 for now.

check you have no air leaks, this will cause plugs to pop & make the engine hard to tune. also replace the fuel & pressure line.

never stop an engine by placing your finger over the stinger, this also will shorten the life of glow plugs.

if you do have a fair bit of slop in your rod, replace it just to be safe.

after doing all these go back to a rich setting on your top & bottom needles, & track tune only. do atleast 3 laps to get the engine up to temp, then start to lean the top needle 1/8th of a turn at a time, do another lap then repeat the same again.
Do not touch the bottom end needle until you have the top end right. the end result should be leanish on the bottom & just a tad rich on the top, just make sure you have a steady stream of smoke when your at the higher end of your throttle range.

last but not least, i would advise an oil content of no less than 12% in your fuel.