Mugen MBX6
#5372
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=270
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ody-Heavy-Duty
#5373
Check to see it the rear center cvd pin is hitting in the brake rotor. The center pins are 1mm shorter than outdrive axle ones and if wrong one happened to get pressed in at factory, it would bind. Also check to make sure that the brakes are not hanging up or that under full throttle, if the front or rear brake linkage is not set correctly causing the brakes to come on slightly.. I did that on first one I ever built..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
I have already rounded with the dremmel the opposite corner of the eccenters, so it does not brake under full throttle.
I have my brakes set that they do not touch the disks at the neutral point but when I touch the trigger to the brake, they come in contact immediately. It was suggested to me to let a little looser the linkages, in order to avoid the braking when the chassis flexes and then set from the Tx the initial move to compensate the longer distance. But I believe that this could only happen when I am at neutral position, because when I am on throttle the linkages are so loose on the brake side that cannot cause the brakes to touch due to flex and I am for such a short time at the neutral, which I believe that even if it binded due to the flex it is so sudden and short that it cannot cause the diff to get fried. Any opinion on that?
Thanks guys.
#5374
mine is however made with metallic colors, we are still testing it so you can only buy it in the normal printed version like on the website
#5375
Tech Addict
Hi Etgdpu,
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
#5376
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Hello all,
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
Hope your able to get the buggy working, I am extremely happy with mine
#5377
Hi Etgdpu,
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
I use the standard disks and pads. I believe that this may be a reason and therefore, I will follow your advise to leave them loose and have the Tx to do the job. However, I have to say that when we inspected it during the race weekend, everything looked perfect without any sign of bind anywhere.
Hi, this might be a simple but overlooked answer. Don't over tighten the rear diffcase/bulkhead. I noticed when I built my MBX6 that the drivetrain binded especially the rear diff so I backed off 1 turn on the center top half diff mount and also the rear diff case/bulkhead. One very hard race weekend later (All my freinds wanted to try my buggy ) and all diffs are good for another very hard race weekend & drivetrain spins very freely
Hope your able to get the buggy working, I am extremely happy with mine
Hope your able to get the buggy working, I am extremely happy with mine
This is a ghost
#5378
I had a similar problem last week end, the rear bearing on the center diff would lock up from time to time for no apparent reason!!
It took me a couple of minutes to actualy localize the problem because the bearing would spin freely at times and just lock on it's own...
If you really can't find anything else double check or just change the bearings on the center diff.
when you first dismount the diff just keep spinning the diff in your hand and see if it locks up at some point.
It took me a couple of minutes to actualy localize the problem because the bearing would spin freely at times and just lock on it's own...
If you really can't find anything else double check or just change the bearings on the center diff.
when you first dismount the diff just keep spinning the diff in your hand and see if it locks up at some point.
#5379
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
If works fine first but start acting up after a while, it's either a bearing that's acting up when heated, or some component that's expanding when heated and binds.
As suggested, I'd:
- replace bearings at least on the rear drivetrain ( I suspect the 15x21x4)... dont try to fix bearings, chuck them in the bin and get new ones. If you can afford 8th scale then you can afford $15 of new bearings
- Make sure the rear diff is shimmed with *some* lateral play
Good luck - intermittent failures are a total PITA
Paul
As suggested, I'd:
- replace bearings at least on the rear drivetrain ( I suspect the 15x21x4)... dont try to fix bearings, chuck them in the bin and get new ones. If you can afford 8th scale then you can afford $15 of new bearings
- Make sure the rear diff is shimmed with *some* lateral play
Good luck - intermittent failures are a total PITA
Paul
#5380
Hello all,
First I would like to thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What about the following theory:
I just discovered that the screw, which holds the rear metal tension rod (E0145) on the chassis was broken and missing (even if I had a longer one with 2 SN3 nuts with 271 loctite). Could this result to a super stable rear end, which does not turn and causes the car to understeer and a front end, which spins all the time, causes the center diff to get fried (instead of having something binding in the rear and cause the same thing)?
//BR
Dimitris
First I would like to thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What about the following theory:
I just discovered that the screw, which holds the rear metal tension rod (E0145) on the chassis was broken and missing (even if I had a longer one with 2 SN3 nuts with 271 loctite). Could this result to a super stable rear end, which does not turn and causes the car to understeer and a front end, which spins all the time, causes the center diff to get fried (instead of having something binding in the rear and cause the same thing)?
//BR
Dimitris
#5381
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Hello all,
First I would like to thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What about the following theory:
I just discovered that the screw, which holds the rear metal tension rod (E0145) on the chassis was broken and missing (even if I had a longer one with 2 SN3 nuts with 271 loctite). Could this result to a super stable rear end, which does not turn and causes the car to understeer and a front end, which spins all the time, causes the center diff to get fried (instead of having something binding in the rear and cause the same thing)?
//BR
Dimitris
First I would like to thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What about the following theory:
I just discovered that the screw, which holds the rear metal tension rod (E0145) on the chassis was broken and missing (even if I had a longer one with 2 SN3 nuts with 271 loctite). Could this result to a super stable rear end, which does not turn and causes the car to understeer and a front end, which spins all the time, causes the center diff to get fried (instead of having something binding in the rear and cause the same thing)?
//BR
Dimitris
I don't think that the chassis flexing from the rear would overwork the center diff... even if the rear joint hits the center diff cup, it isn't great obviously but it doesn't really create bind as the joint is anyway linked to the diff no matter what. in order to overload the center diff you need a strong friction (at the rear, from what you describe of bald front tires and like-new rears).
To note, some of us run "flexing" rear braces (I run the Fioroni part...) and it only helps the rear end a bit, it doesn't dramatically change the car.
I still lean towards (at least) one busted 15x21x4 bearing
Paul
#5382
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
On another note - This saturday my buddy Didier and I won a local "classic" race, the 4 Hours of Gland (that's the name of the city), with 25 crews competing in the event (yes, 25cars on the 42s-lap track... lotsa traffic). That was our first participation, as both him and I used to race electric until our track closed and we "had to" find another category to run.
No technical issue during 4 hours of almost flat-out running, with tires (bowtieM2), filter and Rx Lipo change at 2hrs. We won despite a really, really frightening moment at 3:46 when one of the M3 locknuts holding the rear left camber link decided to flee off the car and we were juste 1 lap ahead of the runner-up. Fortunately I could find a spare locknot and fix the car quickly (Didier was driving), so we still managed to win that one by about 20s 15mns later. Amazing to think that after 4hrs and 300+ laps, #1 and #2 ended up in the same lap.
The Moog was absolutely superb, and above all, bombproof (barring that stoopid M3 nylstop), especially in the rough stuff (imagine what the track looked like after 3.5hrs) where the long suspension travel really, really shone - the drivers weren't bad either I guess I started pulling the car apart yesterday evening for a thorough cleaning and inspection, and it looks barely different from 4hrs ago (the car has run about 30L ie 8 gallons since april).
Setup:
- 7/7/3
- 400 and 6x1.25 F/R
- 9.75F / 11.0R
- Max droop F/R (at least as far as the shock length allowed without "pulling" on the shaft when flexing the arms "by hand")
- and best of all - N2001BF with 25%... barely slower than the other mills, but soooo much easier to drive than the true thoroughbreds that would loose traction much sooner in the dirt... the fact that it's a $150 engine doesn't hurt either
The car was a real dream. Superb way to wrap up the outdoors season!!! Thanks all those from the forum that helped me understand 8th scale this season, you know who you are
Paul
No technical issue during 4 hours of almost flat-out running, with tires (bowtieM2), filter and Rx Lipo change at 2hrs. We won despite a really, really frightening moment at 3:46 when one of the M3 locknuts holding the rear left camber link decided to flee off the car and we were juste 1 lap ahead of the runner-up. Fortunately I could find a spare locknot and fix the car quickly (Didier was driving), so we still managed to win that one by about 20s 15mns later. Amazing to think that after 4hrs and 300+ laps, #1 and #2 ended up in the same lap.
The Moog was absolutely superb, and above all, bombproof (barring that stoopid M3 nylstop), especially in the rough stuff (imagine what the track looked like after 3.5hrs) where the long suspension travel really, really shone - the drivers weren't bad either I guess I started pulling the car apart yesterday evening for a thorough cleaning and inspection, and it looks barely different from 4hrs ago (the car has run about 30L ie 8 gallons since april).
Setup:
- 7/7/3
- 400 and 6x1.25 F/R
- 9.75F / 11.0R
- Max droop F/R (at least as far as the shock length allowed without "pulling" on the shaft when flexing the arms "by hand")
- and best of all - N2001BF with 25%... barely slower than the other mills, but soooo much easier to drive than the true thoroughbreds that would loose traction much sooner in the dirt... the fact that it's a $150 engine doesn't hurt either
The car was a real dream. Superb way to wrap up the outdoors season!!! Thanks all those from the forum that helped me understand 8th scale this season, you know who you are
Paul
Last edited by Lonestar; 10-06-2009 at 05:37 AM.
#5383
Registered User
Guys,
How are you eliminating the understeer on the car,
i find if i want a tight turn i have to flick the opposite way and then flick it back but its risky as i could spin out
i run 5 5 5 in the diffs and normally 35 front and 30 rear shock oil
any ideas
How are you eliminating the understeer on the car,
i find if i want a tight turn i have to flick the opposite way and then flick it back but its risky as i could spin out
i run 5 5 5 in the diffs and normally 35 front and 30 rear shock oil
any ideas
#5384
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Hello all,
First I would like to thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What about the following theory:
I just discovered that the screw, which holds the rear metal tension rod (E0145) on the chassis was broken and missing (even if I had a longer one with 2 SN3 nuts with 271 loctite). Could this result to a super stable rear end, which does not turn and causes the car to understeer and a front end, which spins all the time, causes the center diff to get fried (instead of having something binding in the rear and cause the same thing)?
//BR
Dimitris
First I would like to thank you for your replies and suggestions.
What about the following theory:
I just discovered that the screw, which holds the rear metal tension rod (E0145) on the chassis was broken and missing (even if I had a longer one with 2 SN3 nuts with 271 loctite). Could this result to a super stable rear end, which does not turn and causes the car to understeer and a front end, which spins all the time, causes the center diff to get fried (instead of having something binding in the rear and cause the same thing)?
//BR
Dimitris
I would check some of those bearings by hand though just to see if anything feels gritty.
Someone mentioned setting 3mm of gap between brake pads and discs. I am surprised you have any braking with that much gap. Did you mean something smaller than 3mm?
#5385
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Setup:
- 7/7/3
- 400 and 6x1.25 F/R
- 9.75F / 11.0R
- Max droop F/R (at least as far as the shock length allowed without "pulling" on the shaft when flexing the arms "by hand")
- and best of all - N2001BF with 25%... barely slower than the other mills, but soooo much easier to drive than the true thoroughbreds that would loose traction much sooner in the dirt... the fact that it's a $150 engine doesn't hurt either
The car was a real dream. Superb way to wrap up the outdoors season!!! Thanks all those from the forum that helped me understand 8th scale this season, you know who you are
Paul
- 7/7/3
- 400 and 6x1.25 F/R
- 9.75F / 11.0R
- Max droop F/R (at least as far as the shock length allowed without "pulling" on the shaft when flexing the arms "by hand")
- and best of all - N2001BF with 25%... barely slower than the other mills, but soooo much easier to drive than the true thoroughbreds that would loose traction much sooner in the dirt... the fact that it's a $150 engine doesn't hurt either
The car was a real dream. Superb way to wrap up the outdoors season!!! Thanks all those from the forum that helped me understand 8th scale this season, you know who you are
Paul