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Mugen MBX6

Old 01-12-2012, 04:31 PM
  #14971  
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Im normally never asking the questions here but im kinda lost. Doing my throttle trim i noticed my upper brake linkage is rubbing the actual linkage the locks the brakes. But when i try to raise it with my hand it hits the splash guard. Anyone elses doing this? Are you running the throttle spacers mugen adds with the tray? Im running the servos rubber grouments and on all my other mugens iv'e never used them either but on this particular car im noticing my linkages for brakes aren't smooth like the sticke where they are so if i hit brakes they stay there etc. Lil info won;t hurt. Im assuming once i wear them in it will go away but my servos seem to be humming from this.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:22 PM
  #14972  
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This is the setup I ran last friday, I am sure I will change things around before Nitro Challenge (But I will keep you posted)

Thanks HH, I used your sheet to edit a few things I did (Kinda Similar)
Loose is fast at Rev.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:26 PM
  #14973  
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oops been using the rear 8.25 spring (stock X6R)
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:29 PM
  #14974  
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Corrected
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:26 PM
  #14975  
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Originally Posted by KThatcher
Awesome!! glad your giving it a try. The 1st 2 things I would suggest are to raise your rear anti-squat to give you more rear on power traction. and try droping the rear diff to 2k to increase cornering traction that should help out a bit. You could also try a thinner rear sway bar to increase rear traction also on the rear camber link go to the lower hole which will give you a higher roll center increasing on-power traction...

hope this helps!!
hey kevin

are you going to race at rev sat night? new layout!
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:00 AM
  #14976  
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Originally Posted by HH
Hey Thatch..

I'm also giving the Mugen kool-aid a shot .

I ran it for the first time last week at ARC rd.1 of the Snowman Series and...
well, lets just say I'm not giving up on it yet .

I made a few changes and took it out to Rev on Tuesday night (btw.. the new layout at Rev is fun fun fun ) and the buggy still wasn't where I would like it to be. I ran my HB D8 first and it was hooked up hard and then I swapped the same tires over to my MBX6-R and I kept losing the rear end when exiting the turns on-power.

If you could please take a look at my current setup and see if you may have some suggestions that will keep the rear end more planted on-power that would be great. I'll be racing at Rev this Saturday you should come out and dial your buggy in, you're gonna like this new layout.
Start with laying the shocks all the way down (lower hole on the front and rear tower)
Then try:
Long front brace (I don't see many drivers using the short one) and I don't like it either.
Long rear upper links
More droop! (especially in the front)
Shorter wheelbase
Try putting the rear camber link in the upper hole, but also in the lower. Test both!
3-0 toeblock instead of 3-1

Oh, and make sure you swaybars have some play in bulkhead. (I run my rear swaybar a bit loser than the front one)
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:29 AM
  #14977  
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
I would try lightening up rear shock oil and moving the shock position on arm in. Depending on weather there the 350 oil in rear can help out alot if cooler. I go to rev pretty often but i live in Bakersfield so i cant say exactly. Also the track is fresh and rev is loose as it is so traction is hard to find as it is. Other then ur shocks i can't find anything else in ur set up causing rear to want to be unstable like that. I would say drop to 2,000 in rear diff but its a prefrence. Im running 5,7,2 for rev and have been for a long time there. But i haven't got much experince on the +5 chassis my self.
No need to drop to 350 with that setup IMO. That is what 90% of the people are running.

Try going to a 0/3 rear toe block and move your rear hubs all the way forward. Back off your rear shocks about 2 full rounds to lower the rear. That is a fast simple change you can make with when your testing with the car still running.
A softer rear sway bar would help also.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:48 AM
  #14978  
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Originally Posted by KThatcher
Awesome!! glad your giving it a try. The 1st 2 things I would suggest are to raise your rear anti-squat to give you
More anti-squat gives forward traction because you'll have less backward weighttransfer. However, if you need more sidebite onpower you need use less anti-squat to gain more rearward weighttransfer so the rear wheels bite more than the front wheels. Adding droop also helps, but too much droop can create push.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:56 AM
  #14979  
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Is the battery forward mod. worth doing on a MBX-6? I'm seeing a lot of guys on here talking about loosing rear traction. Is this mod. always better? What are the advantages?

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:41 AM
  #14980  
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Originally Posted by K. Wood
Is the battery forward mod. worth doing on a MBX-6? I'm seeing a lot of guys on here talking about loosing rear traction. Is this mod. always better? What are the advantages?

Thanks!
not always better. i still run my battery in the box like the mbx6. it gives more steering with batt forward but i already have to much steering so i like the battery in the box.

if you want to see how it feels, drill 6 holes in stone guard and ziptie battery to it. easy to do and will tell you if you like it forward or not. if you like it, then you can get the tray to make it look nicer... you'll have to take transponder mount off to do this though.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:26 AM
  #14981  
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Originally Posted by croracer
hey kevin

are you going to race at rev sat night? new layout!
Hey dude no I cant make it Sat night.. I will be out Sunday in the morning for a little testing...
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:27 AM
  #14982  
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Originally Posted by K. Wood
Is the battery forward mod. worth doing on a MBX-6? I'm seeing a lot of guys on here talking about loosing rear traction. Is this mod. always better? What are the advantages?

Thanks!
IMO it's better everywhere with the battery forward. I feel like the older 6 initiated and came off the turns well but had a mid-corner push. The battery forward and silver springs pretty much fix that. To me, the whole balance of the car is better with the batt. forward. I'd say the +5 chassis is a preference thing which may depend on the track. It does add stability to the car though. One thing about the Mugen is that it's predictable. It just doesn't do goofy stuff...ever.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:04 AM
  #14983  
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Folks looking for some great deals on Mugen parts might want to check out the P1Hobbies.com vendor forum!
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:08 PM
  #14984  
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Originally Posted by Joey Powell
IMO it's better everywhere with the battery forward. I feel like the older 6 initiated and came off the turns well but had a mid-corner push. The battery forward and silver springs pretty much fix that. To me, the whole balance of the car is better with the batt. forward. I'd say the +5 chassis is a preference thing which may depend on the track. It does add stability to the car though. One thing about the Mugen is that it's predictable. It just doesn't do goofy stuff...ever.
just curious, where do you have the front upper arm hole at? top, middle or lower?
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:14 PM
  #14985  
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Hey fellas..

I just wanted to thank everyone for all the great feedback on my setup questions and for taking the time to have a look at my current setup sheet.

I've moved the rear camber link to the bottom hole on the tower, moved the rear uprights/hubs all the way forward, and lightened the oil in all of the shocks to 35wt/f and 30wt/r. I'll give this a go tomorrow and share the results here. I'm hoping this will help get the rear end more planted on-power because I have high-hopes for this Mugen buggy.
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