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Mugen MBX6

Old 11-12-2008, 05:35 PM
  #1471  
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I agree. One outdrive broken doesn't mean there is an issue. Maybe you just didn't put it together right
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:41 PM
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i know I asked this before but should there be any backlash between the ring and pinion? Like I said I have the diff shimmed to make the ring and pinion tighter. Should I take the shim out and let there be just a little of back lash?
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:54 PM
  #1473  
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Originally Posted by fiveoboy01
I agree. One outdrive broken doesn't mean there is an issue. Maybe you just didn't put it together right
I put it together right. I actually know of 2 others so it is rare but I am not the only one.
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tony montana
i know I asked this before but should there be any backlash between the ring and pinion? Like I said I have the diff shimmed to make the ring and pinion tighter. Should I take the shim out and let there be just a little of back lash?
on both of the cars i built i shimmed the ring gear out from the pinion. i was told to do this by mugen usa.
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tony montana
i know I asked this before but should there be any backlash between the ring and pinion? Like I said I have the diff shimmed to make the ring and pinion tighter. Should I take the shim out and let there be just a little of back lash?
As little back lash as possible but make sure they turn free. On my front diff I used no shims, on the rear the mesh was tight so I used 2 shims to move the ring gear away from the pinion.
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:07 AM
  #1476  
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hi guys just taking some consensus. the front steering knuckles,, did u guys screw it all the way down to the upper arms or left a few threads.


i stripped the top so wont be able to further tighted them bloody things
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:18 AM
  #1477  
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A couple of threads are left showing for approx -1 camber. I found that 1.) Do not use a ball driver on the pillow balls. 2.) Heat the arms with a heat gun or hair dryer in order to get the pillow balls in the arms. or 3.) run a pilot screw into the arm first several times to cut the the threads,
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:31 AM
  #1478  
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thanks mate. I actually stripped once before and should have read what u advice. it was costly since i had to buy a whole new arm and those bloody balls again.


anyway I am stuck with a few threads. but I fine though i use the massive allen key to screw the outer plastic the balls still rock back and forth the hub.

is that ok??
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:36 AM
  #1479  
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Originally Posted by muaythai
thanks mate. I actually stripped once before and should have read what u advice. it was costly since i had to buy a whole new arm and those bloody balls again.


anyway I am stuck with a few threads. but I fine though i use the massive allen key to screw the outer plastic the balls still rock back and forth the hub.

is that ok??
If there is still some play in your knuckles it sounds like you need to tighten the nuts that screw inside the knuckles. This should remove your slack but be careful not to go to tight or you will bind the pivot balls on the knuckles.
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:57 PM
  #1480  
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We have finally finished building and testing our MBX-6 (a little late in magazine life, but better than never). All I can say is, wow! I really like this car.

Before I got the kit I spend some time on here reading your posts and I got a lot of good information from here, especially in terms of things to look out for and tips when building the kit.

The 6 is phenomenally stable and really drives from the rear end without understeering -- it's pretty amazing. I felt it steered well off and on power, and at all speeds. A bit of inherent push was negated by the massive steering throw. Brakes are great, and suspension is, dare I say it, about the best I've driven in terms of remaining under control in rutted and choppy conditions. Flies like a Losi, which is about the best compliment one can bestow on a 1/8 buggy.

I shimmed my diffs from the outset, as is recommended by Mugen, and the ring/pinion gears broke in very quickly. Now they are super-free and not at all sloppy. I only really changed damping straight away: 32.5 and 27.5, respectively. The stock clutch is pretty mellow (good for most drivers), but I will be installing the lightened shoes and possibly at least one 1.1mm spring. Also, I think a 14-tooth bell is the way to go; smoothes out the car and lets it pull harder down the straights. True, most of the drivers at the Worlds used the 13, but that track, while large, was also very technical; not a lot of full-wood driving.

Regarding the upper wishbone mount: I understand that this appears to be a possible weak spot on an otherwise bulletproof chassis. However, I also know that there are as many people who have had no problem as there are people who have. I heard a rumor that Mugen will be improving the mount for future kits, FYI. I don't think I can recall an all-new kit that didn't have at least one area that could be improved. Overall, Mugen hit a homerun with the 6, IMHO.

Here's a pic from our photo shoot: look for the test in the February issue of Driver.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-mugenlove.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:56 PM
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Nice write up Frank, will be glad to see the full version in February. Thanks
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:19 PM
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what in the world are most of you using to adjust the turnbuckles on the car with? It takes forever to adjust them using a small L shaped allen wrench?
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:16 PM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
what in the world are most of you using to adjust the turnbuckles on the car with? It takes forever to adjust them using a small L shaped allen wrench?
A small L shaped allen wrench.
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:06 PM
  #1484  
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Default shimming of the diff

hi all mbx6 owner,

does you guys shim up the rear and front diff after just 2 run for mbx6?
so far i have manage to hav 2 run and i am wondering should i open up the diff case and shim it up..
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:08 PM
  #1485  
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Mnx6 buggy used once a tires and partss too must sell
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