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Mugen MBX6

Old 02-26-2011, 09:58 AM
  #10996  
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anyone running the 2mm hubs in front and rear how they feel
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:56 AM
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Anybody looking for a x6 look here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ing-hobby.html
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:06 PM
  #10998  
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spring is back - so am I

Savoya runs (ran) the overdrive all the time... hence the stiff centre diff, hence the stiff F/R diffs

Paul
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:33 PM
  #10999  
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Originally Posted by vladconnery
I ran 7,7,3 all last year I had great success near the end of the year. I am going to start the year off running 10,10,7 and will probably continue to go up from there. My style is to attack the track I tried being laid back however my personality is high strung. I need to be active so laid back was a flop. If anyone can make suggestions regarding this style. How I should approach a turns entry, mid and exit, the roughs and jumps ect... I'm thick skinned so any criticisms and suggestions are always taken with a grain of salt. No worries!

Also:
1. where can I get the foam inserts for the shock mod mine look horrible?
2. Which disk are best for the brake mod.
3. Do you just grind of the pad from the calipers? Or is there some others that fit.
4. I've seen the 1 clunk tank mod on here however it did not look to clunky. Anyone no of a better mod or better tank period.

Thanks in advance for your help.
10,10,7 you will love if you are agressive, Avid brake disc are the best(IMO) and use Xray brake metal pads part# 354121. Tank mod??? I havent found the need? But thats just me, as for the foam I use a 9mm socket and yellow Ofna foam (buggy) and punch out the plug. Then cut the foam to the height needed, just so it touches the bladder not pushing on it. This may take a couple trys but 1 foam will give you enough material for life. Oh yea, punch the foam in the center of the foam not on the edges cause the foam tapperes off on the sides. No vented caps necessary (IMO) this is what works for me and you will not have the collapsed bladders, with a consistant shock the whole main\
PS. If you get to a track and nothing feels good try squaring the diffs. like 7,7,7 or 10,10,10 you will by impressed how predictable the car will become.

Hope this helps,

Scott

Last edited by shinnbad12; 02-26-2011 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:43 PM
  #11000  
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Originally Posted by crookdaddy
anyone running the 2mm hubs in front and rear how they feel
I ran the 2mm hubs all the way around outside last summer and loved the with good success. This winter i went to 1mm in the back and 2mm in the front and it is also good. I feel its an exelent tunning option for rough tracks and when the traction is high and it seems like your car is catching edges everywhere.

Scott
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Old 02-26-2011, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
I feel its an exelent tunning option for rough tracks and when the traction is high and it seems like your car is catching edges everywhere.

Scott
+1 it is the go-to option for rutted rough tracks.

racing tomorrow shinn?
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:19 PM
  #11002  
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Shinbadd12, Thanks for the advise I will try those diffs for sure. Funny i was trying to cut the ofna foams out got frustrated. Could not think of away to get a perfect round circle. Will try your method with the socket. I'm going to find out tomorrow how the 10,10,7 feels Sunday is our club race here.
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:47 PM
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Another way that works well is to use a dremel with a sanding drum. Pull the sanding drum half way off the rubber part and then turn it on and it cuts down through the foam nice and clean!
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by vladconnery

Also:
1. where can I get the foam inserts for the shock mod mine look horrible?
.
Go to the K&S metals display at your local hobby shop; find a diameter of brass tubing that fits your application; grind a knife edge on the end of the tube (you have a bench grinder?); twist the tube into the foam to cut out.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by johnny t
Go to the K&S metals display at your local hobby shop; find a diameter of brass tubing that fits your application; grind a knife edge on the end of the tube (you have a bench grinder?); twist the tube into the foam to cut out.
Johnn t, great suggestion I did the same thing for my front turnbuckle ball link plastics where the whelsl would rub. I cut 10mm copper tubing placed over the end of the plastic hit it with some tire glue and no more wore down ball link plastics. Will do that one this week its cheeper and I can make as many as I want.

Thanks
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:42 AM
  #11006  
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Are there any modifications that need done to the shock cap when using the foam onto of the bladder?
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gixxerman
Are there any modifications that need done to the shock cap when using the foam onto of the bladder?
Nope, the losi vented cap theory is another whole game, some say its great. I tried it this past summer and didn't notice any change but the foam supports the bladder and keeps the shock consistant.
Remember there is alot of different opinions out there and this is just mine and what i have found to work for me and others that i race with locally.

Hope this helps,

Scott
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:41 AM
  #11008  
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Default shock caps

Scott hooked me up last year sometime with the little tire foam trick. It definetly keeps the shock bladders from collasping. I have gone weeks, months with out opening my shocks and they still looked and felt good.

What up Shinn and Johnny T?
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by markmo
Scott hooked me up last year sometime with the little tire foam trick. It definetly keeps the shock bladders from collasping. I have gone weeks, months with out opening my shocks and they still looked and felt good.

What up Shinn and Johnny T?

I see your not racing today. what up...
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by johnny t
I see your not racing today. what up...
2 out of three days is enough
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