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Old 02-25-2011, 11:17 AM
  #10981  
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7 7 5 is a good starting point
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:20 AM
  #10982  
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5/7/5 or 5/7/4
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:58 PM
  #10983  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Wow, 7/10/7, I'll have to try that. It doesn't give you too much on-power steering? I tried 7/10/5 but didn't really like it (old chassis, black springs). Thinking with the new chassis 5/10/5 or 7/10/5 or 7 may be dialed. I'll see this weekend, running on a tight track, clay, outdoor/indoor.
when I have gone lighter than 7k in the front or center I experienced diff outs. if you have too much steering one way or the other there are better ways to manage that than with diffs.

there has been a growing consensus among some of us that 5k may be too light for the rear as well. we have discovered the car gets loose on power in the bumps.
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:04 PM
  #10984  
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Originally Posted by johnny t
when I have gone lighter than 7k in the front or center I experienced diff outs. if you have too much steering one way or the other there are better ways to manage that than with diffs.

there has been a growing consensus among some of us that 5k may be too light for the rear as well. we have discovered the car gets loose on power in the bumps.
Diff-out? I think I know, but can u explain this? I'll mess around with some stuff this wknd and post up some setup sheets. Will start at 7/10/5 and see what happens from there. Got the silver springs/longer chassis goin this wknd. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:19 PM
  #10985  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Diff-out? I think I know, but can u explain this? .
its when a wheel unloads under power. sending all your acceleration to the wheel that can't provide any.

kinda like a full size car in the snow and you end up with one wheel spinning when you hit the throttle
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:22 PM
  #10986  
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Gotcha, thanks. Snow, what's that?
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Old 02-25-2011, 02:02 PM
  #10987  
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Different track conditions require different oils. This is why one simple question will get a lot of different answers.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:40 PM
  #10988  
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hey guys im thinkig.......the 2mm hubs r The ANY GOOD AN ALSO what about the ot chassis does it compare to the bce
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:57 PM
  #10989  
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The new Mugen chassis has phenomenal corner speed and more stability. However if ur dead set on an aftermarket chassis then the only one to buy is BCE. I sell them and have them in stock. It will be a very stable chassis that has great balance and is easy to drive
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:36 PM
  #10990  
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Originally Posted by johnny t
its when a wheel unloads under power. sending all your acceleration to the wheel that can't provide any.

kinda like a full size car in the snow and you end up with one wheel spinning when you hit the throttle
Johnny's on the money.

For this reason alone I never go less than 15, front and centre and usually about 10 in the rear.

It's funny everyone keeps asking, "How does your car steer with that??", then, when I go underneath em through the corners, that's how. You've basically gotta let the car's geometry setup through the chassis create corner speed and bump handling and this way my car always feels very consistent where ever I go. Just weighed her too ...
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-175483_10150091675151576_598576575_6801805_784413_o.jpg   Mugen MBX6-171824_10150089000966576_598576575_6774826_6872622_o-1-.jpg  
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:33 AM
  #10991  
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That's a light weight Soapy

What lightweight parts are you using?
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:21 AM
  #10992  
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soapy, here in europethis high oil weights are normal at the mugen drivers. i just read in u.s forums that people ise tgat thiny oils

look at mugen set up sheet download page.
savo runs heavy diff oils and have never troubles with steering.

mike
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:46 AM
  #10993  
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I ran 7,7,3 all last year I had great success near the end of the year. I am going to start the year off running 10,10,7 and will probably continue to go up from there. My style is to attack the track I tried being laid back however my personality is high strung. I need to be active so laid back was a flop. If anyone can make suggestions regarding this style. How I should approach a turns entry, mid and exit, the roughs and jumps ect... I'm thick skinned so any criticisms and suggestions are always taken with a grain of salt. No worries!

Also:
1. where can I get the foam inserts for the shock mod mine look horrible?
2. Which disk are best for the brake mod.
3. Do you just grind of the pad from the calipers? Or is there some others that fit.
4. I've seen the 1 clunk tank mod on here however it did not look to clunky. Anyone no of a better mod or better tank period.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:52 AM
  #10994  
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+1 on the tank clunk mod, id like to see one as well, instructions..ii have a full clunk setup from a serpent 811 tank
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:05 AM
  #10995  
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Also:
1. where can I get the foam inserts for the shock mod mine look horrible?
2. Which disk are best for the brake mod.
3. Do you just grind of the pad from the calipers? Or is there some others that fit.
4. I've seen the 1 clunk tank mod on here however it did not look to clunky. Anyone no of a better mod or better tank period.

Thanks in advance for your help.[/QUOTE]

1. kyosho and losi both make specific foam compensators. I have used both with success.

4. no other tanks seem to work. I modded mine with clunk from losi and it turned out well and does not leak. it is exactly the same as the losi tank now.

going to make a spare tomorrow. one trick is to use the losi efra 90 degree joint. that way you can easily change fuel line to engine without removing all the line from the tank.

LOSA9164
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-img_0793.jpg   Mugen MBX6-img_0792.jpg  
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