jonski

iTrader: (378)

Not really sure what you're getting at...I was merely stating what I got for the price I got it at

TommyBlazin

iTrader: (29)

and had to mention all the spare you will sell with it and condition etc...the guy wanted a opinion on what he was looking at , not sales pitches..no worries, no biggie, i just found it amusing is all

Nick411

You might as well spend the extra $150 and get everything new for that price.

jonski

iTrader: (378)

My stuff is NOT for sale and it was never even mentioned...if you read my post, I stated that I BOUGHT MY stuff for $400. Just because I posted that, it didn't mean I was giving him a sales pitch, just showing him that you can get good stuff for a better price.

TommyBlazin

iTrader: (29)

LOL i scrolled back, and it wasnt even you i was referring to><i didnt even realize myself untill i just went back to quote what i thought was you>...paraniod anyone?...haha thats funny..all good buddy relax

jason in pcb

iTrader: (-1)

don't want to brag, but I just bought a mbx6t roller with 1 race on it( still brand new w/ no scratches) for $200 w/ new custom body. I put a werks B5 w/ 2013 pipe (brand new) on for $300. 2 savox 1258tg high tor. $150. starter box $40. will start break-in on sat. sooo $750 sounds super high for used stuff that prob. needs maj. overhaul. just my 2 cents

morgoth

I bought a new mbx6 with MMM 2200kv combo, 4 tires, Tekno conversion, 2x 5400mah Orion lipo's, 5l 25% nitro for 500bucks brand new... A guy bought al the the stuff and never started to build so I bought it from him
Okay, this was a very lucky deal, but 750$ sounds too much for that car like the others say.
I bought yesterday a second hand mbx6 with Ninja MR (not even 2 gallons through it), starterbox, starterbox lipo, reciever lipo and regulator, 2 exhausts, lightweight drivetrain for 450bucks.

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

It wasn't a sales pitch, just offering a comparison of what else is or will be on the market compared to what he's looking at.

Sorry, but my $.02 says that $750 deal is a rip.

RACEWORLDRC

iTrader: (2)

So here's the bottom line on the new chassis. The tail whips around a little faster than alot of people like according to what they are telling me. However, it gets through the turn faster bottom line. I found out you have to run the car harder into the turn to make it stick. I just did a full two day test with old chassis and the new stock chassis was almost a second faster a lap consistently once I drove it differently.

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

Are you running a heavier rear diff oil to compensate for the hard corner entry necessary for the chassis? What about rear hub position?

Wakizashi

Can you share the links about rc car sales ?
If i buy items abroad, i'll pay %20 tax

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade-16/

Do some searches on here.

Resqnu

iTrader: (37)

I am new to nitro and need help with a good starting diff oil setup and also looking to run Life batteries. Are you guys running the 1450 in the long tray or a 1700 in the square tray?

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

1450 stick pack in the long tray is what most use.

For diffs there are two options depending on track and driver. 7-10-7 or 15-15-10. the 15-15-10 diff is a must with the underdrive, but many guys have liked it with conventional gearing. the 7-10-7 setup is better for indoors sans underdrive. I like the outside as well.

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

Wow, 7/10/7, I'll have to try that. It doesn't give you too much on-power steering? I tried 7/10/5 but didn't really like it (old chassis, black springs). Thinking with the new chassis 5/10/5 or 7/10/5 or 7 may be dialed. I'll see this weekend, running on a tight track, clay, outdoor/indoor.