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Mugen MBX6

Old 10-04-2010, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan D.
My buggy got the tank problem this weekend. Car comes in, pit man opens lid, motor revs like crazy, pit man puts fuel gun in then dies. Never left pit lane. Did it every pit. Clunk style solves all of that. If done properly.
Has anyone tried mounting up a losi tank or some other tank that has a clunk already in it.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:52 AM
  #9152  
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Nothing else fits.
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg B
Would someone care to explain what the numbers on the springs are ?
75? is that the length ? 9.75 ? number of coils ?
You got it.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:11 AM
  #9154  
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Default Tank Mods

Originally Posted by camocowboy
I am going to do some more testing with my buggy tanks. Like I said, the truggy one is perfect, no complaints. However, with the same mod on the buggy tank I had worse problems than with the stock tanks. Maybe I wasn't as good with my drill or something and didn't get a good seal, I don't know. I can't find any fuel leaking but air is harder to detect. I will be re-sealing them and trying again, plus putting the same motor in another car to rule that out. I will report back.

I would rather one be available without the mod though. Much easier that way. I am also finding fuel line routing to be a big problem with the mod.
have you pressure tested the tanks? maybe the lid is leaking on the buggy one. leaking lids are common.

Originally Posted by Alan D.
Nothing else fits.
2 friends run the tamiya tank and it seems to work and fit well.


15x21 bearing seal


shim the oring for more squish. (tighter seal)

Collars for extra spring tension.


Hacked Tank


Getting your 5mm hole height


losi clunk laying in pocket


Its also important to cut the boss from the capacity plug off the floor of the tank, this allows the clunk to lay and work properly.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:45 AM
  #9155  
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Originally Posted by Alan D.
My buggy got the tank problem this weekend. Car comes in, pit man opens lid, motor revs like crazy, pit man puts fuel gun in then dies. Never left pit lane. Did it every pit. Clunk style solves all of that. If done properly.
Im not doubting this, but why would a clunk help the refueling flameouts?


Does the Tamiya tank solve the refueling issues? Cause if it does, there may be other issues we arent addressing because it is NOT clunk style and has the same shitty o ring seal on the cap, NOT TOP SEALING! So basically the same friggin tank! I have one right here. Also the D8 tank doesnt realy fit

If Mugen keeps a deaf ear to the tank and arm problems, there may be a mass exodus to THE Car
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:49 PM
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Hey Joe....do You know how many "cc's" the modded tank top off at?
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:22 PM
  #9157  
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I ran mine at the Byrons race this weekend. The truck one I ran the fuel line up between the top plate and the tank and went backward through the fuel filter, and to the carb and it was right on like 149-150. The buggy with the line coming out and bending around the steering post and back under the pipe mount and straight to the carb with no fuel filter was right on also at 124-125 so I didn't have alot of options running the fuel line. I may leave the restrictor in my next one and see how it works. I think it will hold the clunk off the bottom of the tank though.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:36 PM
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here are some pics of the tanks I did. I think Tamiya is the only tank I haven't tried. Not too common around here. I'll track one down though if they fit. Anybody got a pic of that?
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:55 PM
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I run these and fuel gun flame outs are gone for me buggy and truggy. LXKYNO pressure chamber, by mugen. The idea is to stabilize the exhaust pressure when the lid is snapped shut and opened.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...NUFACTURER=MUG
Hope this helps,

Scott
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:12 PM
  #9160  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
I run these and fuel gun flame outs are gone for me tuggy and truggy. LXKYNO pressure chamber, by mugen. The idea is to stabilize the exhaust pressure when the lid is snapped shut and opened.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...NUFACTURER=MUG
Hope this helps,

Scott
that or a long pressure line is the ticket i beleive. my theory is the tank is too thin and expands and contracts too much, too fast. with the smaller buggy tank it has a greater affect. see for yourselves,, run a empty tank under hot water, then turn the faucet to cool and you'll feel the tank shrink in your hand. no bs. this is what happens when you dump 70* fuel into a fuel tank that's 120*.. running a chamber like that will deff help stabilize that inconsistency.
I had no issues with my 6T tank other than a leaky lid. i just made the clunk tank cause i suck sometimes when practicing and if i have to go get it myself it says running while i WALK out to it.

Last edited by jpalessi; 10-04-2010 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:26 PM
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My problems have not been in the pits. I fixed that a long time ago with longer line and a better tune. I am experiencing tune change on the track when below half tank. That's why I did the clunk
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:27 PM
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I haven't seen any issues with the stock mugen tank. Not that there aren't any....
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:31 PM
  #9163  
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Originally Posted by merdith6
I haven't seen any issues with the stock mugen tank. Not that there aren't any....
if you run a 9-10 inch pressure line and can tune you shouldn't see any issues
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by merdith6
I haven't seen any issues with the stock mugen tank. Not that there aren't any....
Originally Posted by jpalessi
if you run a 9-10 inch pressure line and can tune you shouldn't see any issues
Same here. I run the pressure line longer than most.
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Old 10-05-2010, 12:22 AM
  #9165  
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Hey guys. Where is everyone running their servo saver nut.

From all the way tight until it stops how many turns are you turning it out. Right now I have mine set just above flush from the chassis. I guess its probably 3 turns in from being flush on the bottom.
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