Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Cool - thanks a lot

slow coach

The stock plastic upper arm mount swap it for the alu versions as soon as, the stock one works ok but will break eventually.

A spare front tower I broke one of mine due to some nutter marshal running out in front of my car while around 5 feet in the air, i had to hammer the brakes and the resultant nose dive into the dirt wrecked the front.

these are the only bits i have broken since getting the original gen 1 kit which also came with a much weaker upper mount which was still in almost a year later though.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Get a few of the plastic inserts that hold the bottom a-arms in the aluminium mounts, this is more of a wear part that anything else, but sooner or later you need to replace them. A few extra shock boots can't hurt either if you're running in dirt with rocks as opposed to clay or bluegroove.

Paul

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Guys - setup question.

I did my last run of the season yesterday, as I had to finish my last 5L container of 25% RB fuel and the temperatures are getting lower and lower now in this part of the world (it freezes at night, basically). The car was great in this really really battered track, barring a certain tail-happiness in the ruts which certainly was driven by the fact I was still using 400/400 and of course, with low temps, the 400 in the rear is pushing it a bit

off to my question - what part of the setup do you first act upon to prevent the car from rolling over in the ruts? We all agree that some ruts need to be driven very slowly into in order for the car not to flip over, but setup-wise, how do you do it? I would think 1.more camber and 2.more camber rise... anything else?

thanks,
Paul

JoeC

iTrader: (120)

I am pretty sure it has to do with the droop setting. It sounds like you might need more droop.

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

i agree droop can play a big role in ruts but you can also run to much droop where your wheel will fall into the hole further causing your buggy to flip , if you run less droop your wheel may glide over thge holes better this is what i do to combat a a track with deep ruts

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Droop... didn't think about this one. Actually I run max droop, ie shocks almost completely unlimited by the droop screws, so limiting droop could help in the turns... the problem is it won't help soaking the ruts in the straight line I'm afraid but I guess I can loose some straight line stability if this helps me not flipping the car over in hairpin ruts every other lap or so

Thanks

Paul

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

if you are running full droop it is possable your whee /wheels will be falling deeper in to the ruts on the straight sometimes reducing the amount will make your buggy more stable , i rarley run fukll droop on my buggy at all

Merciless

Hey Guys,

My MBX6 is on order . I have a question though. Can anyone tell me if part No. E0177 Al. Front Upper Arm Mount is now included in the kit ??

I was going to order it but the guy at the shop told me he thought it's now a standard part ....

Just wondered if anyone can confirm this for me. Don't mind if it's not, I'll just order it.

Thanks

Rod

gameholic2

Not included in any of the versions

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

The upper hinge pin hole in the rear hub should help with traction rolling in ruts but more negative camber may be a better solution. If you go to the upper hinge pin hole remember to reset your ride height because the upper pin will raise the rear end significantly.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

I think the full droop is the problem. Limit is some and the rut rolling will be greatly improved. Don't worry too much about straight line stability, once a bump gets beyond a certiain size/speed, a good setup "bounces straight" more than it actually absorbs the bump. You may find the car can be driven more aggressively in turns with less droop too because of less severe weight transfer front to rear.

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

yep i think by memory i start with about 122mm in the rear and 110 in the front measuring from shock centre to centre

muaythai

iTrader: (1)

hi guys i know this has been asked loads. sorry.

are there alot of difference?

thanking in advance

quicklosi

iTrader: (5)

front and rear lower A-arms plastic was re-shaped and molded a little different, outdrives are lightened and have a grease ring in them i dont think there is really anything else that isnt just cosmetic.

If anyone is interested i have a MBX-6 that i am trying to sell. it is the original version but it does have the updated arms and the lightened outdrives throughout the entire car. comes with some spares as well. asking $300 shipped for the roller, spares, and a set of tires. pm me if interested