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Mugen MBX6

Old 05-09-2009, 08:51 PM
  #3496  
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run the ninja pipe................ and u hace 3 headers to select from!
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:13 PM
  #3497  
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There in no pipe on the market that fits with room to spare in the X6, it's just tight in there. I've been flirting with trying to adapt the X5 mud guards/body for this reason. Anybody looked at that?
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:14 PM
  #3498  
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was at the track today had some guys from xray. They were helping me out. I was having problems with my air filter, and he gave me a xray one that is one part of xray that is better the mugens. Much better neck and filter. Also i don't like the mugen 6 radio box. Other then that, the car is awsome!!
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:46 PM
  #3499  
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Originally Posted by BSchorr
run the ninja pipe................ and u hace 3 headers to select from!
Yeah I'll also have a much lighter wallet and the last ninja pipe I had seemed like it was made of tinfoil. Got t-boned the first corner of a race and the thing was dang near pinched closed. No thanks

If that's the best option I'll live with the body deforming from the heat
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:53 PM
  #3500  
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I know a guy that lines the left side of his body with a thin heat tape i wanna call it, not sure though. Looks like it would work..

So your body rubbing on the top side of the pipe where the compression nipple is? or you mean on the outside?
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:58 PM
  #3501  
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Originally Posted by Dal
Australia best driver, Wayne Walker, 2 times current Aus champ, MBX6, has used 5/5/5 for the last 3 big meets hes been in, he loves it, and yes 3 different tracks, but then again, he is a super freak driver, down here.

He also has lifted the Ackerman bar by 4 or 5mm to get rid of the bump steer, which WAS , but not now, giving the outside front wheel understeer as the car leans through the corner.
I now have copied it, and on the bench looks great.

Is that you reading my post Dawson????? huh huh
Interesting. You have any pics of you mod to the Ackerman plate so we can see what you mean?

I had a look and a play today with some 4mm spacers i had laying around and it dose seem to help stop the tow out on the outside wheel a little when the chassis is pushed down but only by about half. It still goes into about 10 to 15 degrees of tow out even still.

And at full droop when the chassis is up in the air the front wheels tow out like crazy.

The thing that would fix all this would be to have a much shorter Ackerman plate and a lot longer steering turnbuckle rods. The servo saver posts would need to be much closer together and almost touching each other with a Ackerman plate about half its current length or less. Then longer steering rods so the angle of deflection as the chassis moves up and down will be a lot less at the steering rods and thus not push and pull on the front hubs anywhere near as much if at all.

I think Losi have a short Ackerman plate and long steering rods on there buggy and it dose work to stop all that bump steer.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:25 PM
  #3502  
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Originally Posted by Timox
Interesting. You have any pics of you mod to the Ackerman plate so we can see what you mean?

I had a look and a play today with some 4mm spacers i had laying around and it dose seem to help stop the tow out on the outside wheel a little when the chassis is pushed down but only by about half. It still goes into about 10 to 15 degrees of tow out even still.

And at full droop when the chassis is up in the air the front wheels tow out like crazy.

The thing that would fix all this would be to have a much shorter Ackerman plate and a lot longer steering turnbuckle rods. The servo saver posts would need to be much closer together and almost touching each other with a Ackerman plate about half its current length or less. Then longer steering rods so the angle of deflection as the chassis moves up and down will be a lot less at the steering rods and thus not push and pull on the front hubs anywhere near as much if at all.

I think Losi have a short Ackerman plate and long steering rods on there buggy and it dose work to stop all that bump steer.
first of all you need to take all the shims back out of your car.
you need to set it arms laval on the tabel and set the toe to zero you will have 1.5 degs or less bump steer in this car. if you want to get rid of it some i do not shim my rack up i put the shim out on the link btween the link and carbon peice the flater you make that rod the less bump steer you have i have a one mm shim under mine and it seem to help a lil.

but be careful there a reason why this car has bump steer in it. it help setal the car when it lands of jump so you can light into the trigger much sooner then you would think with other cars.
one mm of shim in my car let me be abel to take that big tripple and land it perfect and make the conor but it also let me go throught the whoops a lil better due to the car not catching a edge and bump steering on me a lil
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Old 05-10-2009, 01:02 AM
  #3503  
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Actually that would make it worse. You would need to go the other way and lower the ball out on the carbon tab. It would help at full droop but at full compression it would give the opposite result.

The thing is its quite bad when you steer the wheels to full lock and then compress the chassis to the ground and watch what happens with the outside front wheel. I had never noticed it before until Dal pointed it out.

It almost straightens out half of its steering angle. And the outside wheel is doing most of the work when cornering and has the most weight over it so by having it straighten out when the car leans over onto it when in a corner you would loose some steering.

I am finding in a high traction fast sweeper i am having some big understeer which i think might be something to do with this above mentioned thing that's happening.
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:58 AM
  #3504  
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Originally Posted by Timox
Interesting. You have any pics of you mod to the Ackerman plate so we can see what you mean?

I had a look and a play today with some 4mm spacers i had laying around and it dose seem to help stop the tow out on the outside wheel a little when the chassis is pushed down but only by about half. It still goes into about 10 to 15 degrees of tow out even still.

And at full droop when the chassis is up in the air the front wheels tow out like crazy.

The thing that would fix all this would be to have a much shorter Ackerman plate and a lot longer steering turnbuckle rods. The servo saver posts would need to be much closer together and almost touching each other with a Ackerman plate about half its current length or less. Then longer steering rods so the angle of deflection as the chassis moves up and down will be a lot less at the steering rods and thus not push and pull on the front hubs anywhere near as much if at all.

I think Losi have a short Ackerman plate and long steering rods on there buggy and it dose work to stop all that bump steer.
The Losi has alot less suspension travel, so the bump steer doens't show up as much. The MBX6 has some, but it really depends on how much droop you run. The more droop, the worse the bumpsteer. If anything, I shim the outer tierod pivots up if needed. Thats what I did with the MBX5R. Also, the upper arm position affecte the bumpsteer also, so keep this in mind. But in general, I try to minimize the bumpsteer, but eliminate all together.
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:07 AM
  #3505  
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Originally Posted by tunerjetta29
Yeah I'll also have a much lighter wallet and the last ninja pipe I had seemed like it was made of tinfoil. Got t-boned the first corner of a race and the thing was dang near pinched closed. No thanks

If that's the best option I'll live with the body deforming from the heat
The ninja pipe you had was likely made by Novarossi (GRP made Ninja engine, correct?), the newer Ninja pipes are OS made. Much thicker and stronger.

On the bumpsteer thing, another key to adjusting bump steer in this car is inner hingepin angle. Depending on your setup your inner pins may not be parallel which is possible because of the pivot ball front end. If that's the case then the height of the outer end of the steering link changed relative to all the other points in in the suspension and there's no way to get the bump steer out until the inner pins are parallel. As porkchop pointed out, the bump steer isn't there by accident, don't be surprised if the car picks up some weird quirks if you take it out.
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:02 PM
  #3506  
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Can someone tell what set-up changes i can make to have more on power steering. My diffs are 5-7-2. my shocks are 350 front and rear. Everything should be Ashtons Setup. I have no on power steering.
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:06 PM
  #3507  
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Originally Posted by steve wood
Can someone tell what set-up changes i can make to have more on power steering. My diffs are 5-7-2. my shocks are 350 front and rear. Everything should be Ashtons Setup. I have no on power steering.
give this a try
Front:
Kingpin 1mm washer
Chamber angle -1
Toe Out -1
Rebound stop(shock Length)110mm
Swaybar 2.3mm
Wheel hub stock
Lower arm mount 0
Kick up-up
Upper arms all the way back
upper arm mounts center
lower arms centered
Shocks,6 hole piston(1.4) 500wt,9.50 spring,middle on tower,outside on arm
Ride height 29mm
akerman back
Rear:
Chamber angle -1
Rear Toe 3
Anti squat 2
Rear Chamber link down on tower,middle on hub
Rear Hubs 1mm back from center,lower hole in hub
Shocks,6 hole pistons(1.2)350wt,10.75 spring,middle on tower,outside on arm
swaybar 2.8
Rebound stop(shock length)126mm
Rear arms back 1mm
Ride height,29mm
Plastic uprights
Stock wheel hubs
Diffs-5/5/3
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:39 PM
  #3508  
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Originally Posted by steve wood
Can someone tell what set-up changes i can make to have more on power steering. My diffs are 5-7-2. my shocks are 350 front and rear. Everything should be Ashtons Setup. I have no on power steering.
Two set-up changes that would be faster to adjust would be to move the front upper arms all the way forward(all shims behind arm), second would be to slightly lower the front ride height. Third change to try would be to reduce the front kick-up by either going to the 1 front block(if already useing the 1 block, flip the front bushing over so the hole is lowered). I would not do all at once, try each seperately then add a second change if one of the previous changes was not enough.
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:46 PM
  #3509  
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[QUOTE=Davidka;5792888]The ninja pipe you had was likely made by Novarossi (GRP made Ninja engine, correct?), the newer Ninja pipes are OS made. Much thicker and stronger.

Novarossi does not make ninja pipes. GRP made the engines and pipes. They made a running change with the first version of Ninja 2053 pipe to a much more stronger material due to the pipe being a little more fragile than they normally are.
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:46 PM
  #3510  
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Cool, Thanks for the advice on the setups. I am going to try some changes
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