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Mugen MBX6

Old 02-24-2009, 12:38 AM
  #2716  
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No chassis braces front or rear, on the Reno Mobile either? Clear plastic/lexan rear body mounting post, very Euro. His dad must just whittle on hardware all day long.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:28 AM
  #2717  
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just got back home from the nitro challenge
man it was a fun weekend
i finished 1st in the b main (3rd place) didnt bump up
special thanks to Eddie Fikes, Bobby Tillman, Nasty Nate, Cole Thorton, Dave, and Cody King I couldnt have done it without you guys

anyways they all helped me with a setup that is real easy to drive
its amazing

if anyone is interested pm me
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Old 02-24-2009, 02:06 AM
  #2718  
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rcracer07

Please post here your MBX6 set up from Nitro Pit
Thank's
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Old 02-24-2009, 02:06 AM
  #2719  
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:00 AM
  #2720  
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Front:

Kingpin spacer:1mm
Camber angle:-2
Upper Arm spacer:3mm
Toe:+1
Rebound stop:109mm(shock length)
Anti Roll bar:2.3
Wheel hub:0mm
lower arm mount kick up: 0
lower arm plate: up
upper arm position:middle
lower arm spacer:2mm behind arm(car long)
steering ackerman:middle

Front shock:
piston:1.2
oil:350
spring:XS
ride hieght:30mm (flat surface to chassis)
shock tower position:middle hole
arm position: outer hole

Rear:

Camber:-2.5
lower arm mount: 0/3
rebound stop:126mm (shock length)
anti roll bar:2.7
anti squat: middle
camber link: middle(tower) middle (upright)
upright: plastic
upright pin position:lower hole
wheel base:3mm
lower arm spacer:1mm

Rear shock:
piston:1.2
oil:350
spring:XS
ride hieght:30mm(flat surface to chassis)
shock tower position:second hole from the inside
shock arm position: outer hole

Wing:low wing

Diffs 7/7/5 with no O rings

I run the new speed with .9 clutch springs and the light wieght shoes
I have all titanium screws and the aluminum upper arm mount
I ran M3 Revolvers also

Spur/clutch bell: 46/13

I hope all of this helps some one out it is a very easy to drive setup and it worked great for me
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:43 AM
  #2721  
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I started to put together a set up sheet for you.

Are you using the 1.25 optional 6 hole pistons?
What carb insert, plug, pipe & header and fuel?

How would you rate:
Traction: High, Med or Low?
Surface? Smooth, Med or Bumpy?

Open Buggy B-Main?
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:10 AM
  #2722  
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Hey guys i am nejw to this thread but not the sport, about a month ago i go t ambx-6 and so far the car has been great my setup is very close to the way i want it but i am having 2 problems, i think i may already have the answers to them but i wanted to make sure that i am making the right changes.

1st problem the bumps around in the front too much when the track gets rough i was running 35wt losi up front with the 6 hole pistons and my droop set at 109mm, i went down to 27.5 wieght oil and went to 113mm on the front droop.

2nd problem the rear end has way to much side bite which i am sure is a good thing for most but doesnt fit my driving style i prefer a car that is a lil loose in the rear, i usually run AKA I-Beams in the rear so i am pretty sure its not the that i have too much tire, my orginal setup was 5-hole pistons with 30wt losi but i have changed that too 22.5wt. losi and moved the bottom shock hole to the outside.

I am gonna run the car this weekend to see how the car feels but if anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:34 AM
  #2723  
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Josh, on the front the shock oil sounds good, may be a bit light now for be careful on adding droop, it will make your problem in the rear even worse. On the rear, a couple questions:

1) What toe plate are you running
2) What sway bar are you running
3) Camber link & shock positions
4) Hub position

I would generally say shorten your camber link and/or move it up 1 on the tower and move your hubs back, that should loosen the rear up. If that doesn't work you can go to a stiffer sway bar or move the top of the shocks out 1 hole to stand them up a bit more.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:23 AM
  #2724  
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Originally Posted by jsmax
Josh, on the front the shock oil sounds good, may be a bit light now for be careful on adding droop, it will make your problem in the rear even worse. On the rear, a couple questions:

1) What toe plate are you running
2) What sway bar are you running
3) Camber link & shock positions
4) Hub position

I would generally say shorten your camber link and/or move it up 1 on the tower and move your hubs back, that should loosen the rear up. If that doesn't work you can go to a stiffer sway bar or move the top of the shocks out 1 hole to stand them up a bit more.
On the camber link i am all the way in on the hub, i was orginally running in it the middle, and ont the tower i am in the middle hole.

Toe plate is 0-3

My upper shock position is 3rd up from bottom of tower and the lower is now outside, i was orginally running inside.

Hub position i am using the bottom hole on the hub and middle for hub spacing.

The sway bar is stock i believe the updated kit comes with a 2.7mm

Thanks again for your help it is much appreciated.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:36 AM
  #2725  
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Tony you can put my name on the setup sheet also
Jerell Gray

thank you for taking you time to do this

I am not using the optional pistons
O.S. insert 6
plug: P3
pipe: O.S. 2060SC
header: O.S.
fuel: Odonnell 30%

traction: high
surface: smooth

Open Buggy B Main.

The nitro pit is a large outdoor track with large jumps and technical sections
the track was ran dry with a blue groove but i think this setup will still work on wet track with medium traction also (we will be running the same layout for club racing and they run club races wet) I will let everyone know this weekend
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:39 AM
  #2726  
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Originally Posted by jsp619666
On the camber link i am all the way in on the hub, i was orginally running in it the middle, and ont the tower i am in the middle hole.

Toe plate is 0-3

My upper shock position is 3rd up from bottom of tower and the lower is now outside, i was orginally running inside.

Hub position i am using the bottom hole on the hub and middle for hub spacing.

The sway bar is stock i believe the updated kit comes with a 2.7mm

Thanks again for your help it is much appreciated.
Is there enough take up with the stock turnbuckles and ends to run the rear camberlink in the inside hole? I have been wanting to try that position but have not ever done it thinking I may have to cut my tie rods or something.

If you want the rear to break loose easier and be more free the quickest and easiest thing to do would be less rear toe. I usually run 2.75 or 2.5, depends on how much traction there is. I have never run 3 degrees yet.
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:40 PM
  #2727  
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
Is there enough take up with the stock turnbuckles and ends to run the rear camberlink in the inside hole? I have been wanting to try that position but have not ever done it thinking I may have to cut my tie rods or something.

If you want the rear to break loose easier and be more free the quickest and easiest thing to do would be less rear toe. I usually run 2.75 or 2.5, depends on how much traction there is. I have never run 3 degrees yet.


Its close on the outer plastic end were the arm drops and the tie rod screws in there are some white stress marks on the upper round part part of the plastic but i have ran it that way about 8 times and no issues with breaking so for and the plastic does not seem to have stressed any more or less then when i orginally screwed the tie rods in so its fine by my standards.
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:45 PM
  #2728  
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I am running 7,4,2 in the car right now. I see that everyone is trying 5k in the rear. Is 5,7,5 a good setup for a tight indoor clay track with high traction? What exactly does it make the car do differently then my current 7,4,2?
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:46 PM
  #2729  
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Ok, I knew it would be pretty close. Even in the middle hole it does not seem like there is much left to thread into.
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:51 PM
  #2730  
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Originally Posted by Mugen9112
I am running 7,4,2 in the car right now. I see that everyone is trying 5k in the rear. Is 5,7,5 a good setup for a tight indoor clay track with high traction? What exactly does it make the car do differently then my current 7,4,2?
Next time I get a chance I will try Ashtons diff setup, 5-7-5. A friend of mine recently just stepped back into the racing scene and he dialed in his mbx6 per Ashtons set up. I drove his buggy and the thing is freaking stuck! Pushes a little to much for me at a high bite , indoor track, "BUT" it was very easy to drive and I am sure we could have dialed in more steering. I feel it would have been the way to go on a rough,outdoor track.
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