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Mugen MBX6

Old 01-21-2009, 02:52 AM
  #2281  
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hi guys


just checking whether fornt 45 wt and back 40wt shock oil for the mugen is fine??


thanking u all in advance
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:14 AM
  #2282  
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Gah, I just stripped a pillowball on my initial buildup! F#@&%*#!!!!

Now I understand where the pillowball frustration comes from... I think it's a rite of passage for Mugenites in general

Any suggestions on how to get that PB out? Any chance it can be salvaged, or should I just hack it out and order another one?
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:18 AM
  #2283  
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Originally Posted by muaythai
hi guys


just checking whether fornt 45 wt and back 40wt shock oil for the mugen is fine??


thanking u all in advance
Depending on what brand of oil you're using that's likely too heavy. Most of the good setups are calling for 350-400 rear and 400 front. (27.5-32.5rear/32.5 front Losi).

I found that my linkages were a little short when cut to the instructions. They work well on wider carbs like OS (maker of the latest Ninja engine) but on my Werks engines the throttle link was short.
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by muaythai
hi guys


just checking whether fornt 45 wt and back 40wt shock oil for the mugen is fine??


thanking u all in advance
What springs are you running? If you have the 10.25/9.25 springs you will probably be ok. If you are running the softer springs that might be a little heavy.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:13 AM
  #2285  
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When doing the pillowball install precut the arm threads with a bolt (cannot remember the size) and the pillow balls go right in.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by captain america
Gah, I just stripped a pillowball on my initial buildup! F#@&%*#!!!!

Now I understand where the pillowball frustration comes from... I think it's a rite of passage for Mugenites in general

Any suggestions on how to get that PB out? Any chance it can be salvaged, or should I just hack it out and order another one?
If you can grip it with side cutters or good pliers on the inner shaft, you can get them out. If you have the older steel mbx5 pivotballs, screw one in the arm with some grease to cut threads into the plastic arms. Then run the AL mbx6 pivotballs in.
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:18 AM
  #2287  
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Originally Posted by captain america
Gah, I just stripped a pillowball on my initial buildup! F#@&%*#!!!!

Now I understand where the pillowball frustration comes from... I think it's a rite of passage for Mugenites in general

Any suggestions on how to get that PB out? Any chance it can be salvaged, or should I just hack it out and order another one?


I had the same issue. I had to take a dremel and cut a slit in it then turn it in with a flat head screw driver. It does not affect anything and once I got it adjusted I have not touched it. IMO the pillow ball suspension is the most hated part for me of the 6.
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
If you can grip it with side cutters or good pliers on the inner shaft, you can get them out. If you have the older steel mbx5 pivotballs, screw one in the arm with some grease to cut threads into the plastic arms. Then run the AL mbx6 pivotballs in.
Thanks guys.

Actually, I tried something else that successfully got the pillowball out: I used my dremel and a 1.5mm diamond bit, and I created a "notch" on either side of the opening in the aluminium ball, and then inserted a large, flat-head screwdriver and torqued that puppy right out. Basically, the ball is salvageable this way; the only difference being that I have to remove the end-cap on the knuckle to do the camber adjustment.

Would've been nice if Mugen had put a little note in the manual suggesting a drop of oil on the PB threads, but alas, it builds character this way.

Also, regarding the rear hinge-pins: is it just me, or is it a complete bee-otch to get the lower hinge-pins to allign with the holes? I really had to apply pressure, and the aft (plastic) hinge-pin brace looks slightly boomerang-shaped when viewed from above. I also had to leave out the 1mm shim for the rear lower arms, as it caused the arms to bind. I think that's probably the one and only aspect of the kit I found a bit disappointing. Looks like the M2C hinge-pin braces are in order.
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Old 01-21-2009, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by captain america
Thanks guys.

Actually, I tried something else that successfully got the pillowball out: I used my dremel and a 1.5mm diamond bit, and I created a "notch" on either side of the opening in the aluminium ball, and then inserted a large, flat-head screwdriver and torqued that puppy right out. Basically, the ball is salvageable this way; the only difference being that I have to remove the end-cap on the knuckle to do the camber adjustment.

Would've been nice if Mugen had put a little note in the manual suggesting a drop of oil on the PB threads, but alas, it builds character this way.

Also, regarding the rear hinge-pins: is it just me, or is it a complete bee-otch to get the lower hinge-pins to allign with the holes? I really had to apply pressure, and the aft (plastic) hinge-pin brace looks slightly boomerang-shaped when viewed from above. I also had to leave out the 1mm shim for the rear lower arms, as it caused the arms to bind. I think that's probably the one and only aspect of the kit I found a bit disappointing. Looks like the M2C hinge-pin braces are in order.
Only tighten the lower bolts enough to keep the arms free. You can overtighten the bolts and pull the rear toe block forward. Install the 1mm clip and only tighten the bolts enough to keep everything together and free. You should be able to turn the bolt without feeling the nut is dragging against the front bushing.
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Old 01-21-2009, 03:29 PM
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hi all. I am getting my firstmugen next week. use torun losi.few things I wanted to ask. fist are there any building tips u all ca give me so the process goes sooth. hear the rear end ikes to get lose on the mbx6 what setups u all using.I know mugens are tuff but what kind of spares should I stock up on. thank u too everone that can help.
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:44 PM
  #2291  
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Originally Posted by mixedguy
hi all. I am getting my firstmugen next week. use torun losi.few things I wanted to ask. fist are there any building tips u all ca give me so the process goes sooth. hear the rear end ikes to get lose on the mbx6 what setups u all using.I know mugens are tuff but what kind of spares should I stock up on. thank u too everone that can help.
Well I'll try to make your build as smoothl as much from what I can remember at the moment.
1: Put CA glue (preferrably thin) on the edge of the shock towers.
2: Don't use the smaller (S3) o-ring in the diff bevel gears.
3: Make sure you use blue loctite/thread lock on all metal to metal screws
4: Shave the pipe mount so there's extra room for the fuel tank to shift around.
5: I personally didn't have to use oil or grease to install the pillow ball or the pillow ball adjusting nut, but have read that it makes it easier to install.
6: Make sure your throttle/brake linkage sits at an angle so that it doens't hit the fuel tank at full throttle.
7: The center CVD dust boots can fall off the cup (especially the front), so use some type of silicone/shoo goo/RTV to secure them.
8: If you have; use an arm reamer or drill bit to smooth out the holes on the suspension arms so that the hinge pins rotate freely.
9: To keep as much dirt out of my receiver and battery box I use electrical tape around the seam of the radio box.
10: If you have the older kit you will have to set your front droop properly so that the steering turnbuckle pivot balls don't hit the upper arm.
I think I have more hints and tips for the build, but that's all I can remember at the time being. Hope that helps at least.
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:53 PM
  #2292  
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Originally Posted by mixedguy
hi all. I am getting my firstmugen next week. use torun losi.few things I wanted to ask. fist are there any building tips u all ca give me so the process goes sooth. hear the rear end ikes to get lose on the mbx6 what setups u all using.I know mugens are tuff but what kind of spares should I stock up on. thank u too everone that can help.
The mugen is still a durable buggy but I would recommend you get the front upper arm pin holder in aluminum. Mugen makes the part as an option and the car is pretty much bomb proof from there. The car may be a little rear end happy at first but much like any car just give it some time and a little setup work and things will be good. If you can try and get one of the newest kits to make sure you get all the newest updated goodies ,while they are not totally necessary , it is obviously nicer to get the latest parts. I think the car is way more stable than a losi, not saying its better or faster but very smooth and easy to drive. Also if you get one of the new kits it has a revised setup sheet included which should help get you where you need to be which is a plus, I was the only person in my region for quite some time to have the buggy so I had to figure things out for myself. As for spare parts it would not be a bad idea to get a set of all the cars arms,maybe a set of rear uprights, the car is pretty durable but it is hard to predict the unexpected. Good luck with the new buggy and I think you will like it.
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:51 PM
  #2293  
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O manhold how do we get pricing of the mbx6 parts. I sent you an email today. Unfortunately I can not read German.lol.
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:56 PM
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setup is ever thing in the new mbx6 or older car it would drive straight down the track reguardless the set up 2.75 rear toe and anti kick up every where shock 25 weight oil other than that it is a pretty easy build mikel
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by markmorrow
O manhold how do we get pricing of the mbx6 parts. I sent you an email today. Unfortunately I can not read German.lol.
now that is funny but i do remember glad it was a good picture i do want to know how much is the motor mount
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