savannahmick

iTrader: (10)

I have been running the M2C Alum variable weight 4 shoe clutch for awhile with decent success but I feel like the bearings are getting stressed since they last about 5-10 tanks. I use good bearings like Mugen metal shield and TKO special also Protek ceramics but dry up quick and start tightening up after a few tanks. Is this normal with the buggy cause I got much more bearing life running my old Losi. Anyway I have to use 5-7 shims behind the bearings to get the bell centered on spur also 5-7 in front of the bearings to get 1-2mm play could the shim # cause sideload or other stress on bearings shortening life? I have never used the Mugen flywheel/collet spacer and it makes me nervous seems like it could cause front engine bearing damaged but a pro I spoke with has never had a issue with it. What do other Mugen owners do to get the flywheel or bell out a little to center it on spur? Shim behind collet with Mugen spacer or other type shim or just keep doing it like I do now shim behind the clutch bell bearings in front of the flywheel? I run a Mod p5xlt with standard Mugen motor mount and M2C clutch with Protek bells. Thanks!

Chappo98

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know how to get maximum steering out of the mbx6?

mine seems to go slow around almost every corner at my track..



Thanks

Chappo98

iTrader: (3)

any tips or setup sheets would be appreciated

SureShotImages

iTrader: (11)

If any of you guys have an MBX6 you would like to get rid of, I am looking for one. PM me if you or someone you know is selling one. Thanks!

K. Wood

iTrader: (2)

What should be the max Ride ht. for this car?

Fast1rc

Here is my base setup I use before each track:


This setup also helps on the turning you asked about earlier.

Fast1rc

Front ranges:
Droop:
107 - 117
Ride height:
26 - 29

Rear ranges:
Droop:
124 - 127
Ride height:
26 -30

Obviously this will vary on track conditions, shock positioning and other factors, but this will at least give you a range.
I personally try to keep it between 27 to 29 for ride height.

hyperfuxx

iTrader: (31)

Has there been issues with the tank? Seems lately than when there's maybe 1/4 left in the tank it dies. Motors running great so I'm kinda guessing it might be the tank. There doesn't seem to be any air in the lines either. Also is the fuel filter reliable? I cleaned it but should I ditch it all together?

Fast1rc

From past threads there has been some presumptions of bad tanks. Have you tried a new tank and does the problem persist? Also realize as your tank gets further down (empty), then the leaner your engine gets too, so try richening your engine a bit and see if the problem goes away.

Several of us have altered our MBX6 fuel tanks to have a clunk in it and I personally think that it is awesome. It provides a consistent tune and can stay upside down as long as you have fuel (like waiting on Marshalls, LOL). The clunk idea was so popular that Mugen incorporated the clunk idea into their new tank in the MBX7 and technically the MBX7 tank will not fit the MBX6 without modifications.

In regard to the fuel filter, are you talking about the filter in the fuel tank or the actual external Mugen fuel filter? It is always good to have some type of extra external fuel filter, but you will notice almost all fuel tanks have a stone fuel filter in them already for filtering big debris. I would say if you race in dusty or sandy areas, then yes you will need an external fuel filter. The Mugen fuel filter has a good filter in it, but remember to clean it regularly and seal it or it can leak. I personally use the Kyosho large fuel filter for extra fuel capacity and it only has a small screen filter int it, but I check it a lot. Remember to always check and make sure you do not have an air leak from fuel filter as I see that a lot at race tracks, since fuel filters are not air tight or can loosen over time.

hyperfuxx

iTrader: (31)

Was asking about the external. It didn't lean out at all before it dumped out. I like the idea of a clunker but I like the idea of staying off my lid too. I hope they revise the 6R tank also. I'm not ready for the 7 yet. Just got the 6 two months before the 7 dropped.

mxr17

I just stopped with my mbx6 and bought a new car from another brand just because of what you describe, not enough turn in /off power, the steering in that car is poor and this is the point that mugen has vastly improved on the x7, and after two mbx6 and three season running it, I have not found one set up that would give it more steering, it was a good car but it has that bad thing that I could not deal with any more.

K. Wood

iTrader: (2)

The reason I was asking was that a pro driver drove my car an said it was to soft and had to much body roll. He then cranked way down on my shock collars. The car did drive better, but when I checked the ride Ht. it was at 35 MM both ends. It is the original ECO with the stock black springs. I thought 35 MM was out of the normal range.

Thanks

lovell

iTrader: (12)

Does anyone know if Mugen makes a 105mm and a 85mm center drive shaft? Stock is 110mm and 78.5mm.

bcr500

iTrader: (34)

Anybody know how well the 7 bodies fit the 6r? Im looking at the ftw and bitty force.

wyl03

iTrader: (44)

I believe the front centre drive shaft only comes in one size, 78.5mm.

The rear centre drive shaft comes in 103mm (E0227), for the standard MBX6 and 110mm (E0254) for the MBX6R/7.