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Mugen MBX6

Old 10-19-2012, 06:56 AM
  #17911  
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Originally Posted by Paulus
Like this :

i will try y have the old model but thx for the idea
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:41 AM
  #17912  
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Unhappy Beaking Arms/Cold conditions

Originally Posted by mebolson
Am I the only one breaking an abnormal amount of A-arms? Front and rear, none seem to last. Getting to the point of changing brands because of it. I have tried boiling with no success. I really like my car, but might change out of frustration.
Is it just me?
E
I think u hit the nail on the head when you talked track temps. I am down here in the Atlanta region and its "warm" most of the time. However; when it gets cold..say below 45? if you whack something..you WILL break an arm. I do.
When i first started running mugens i too had this prob. "Most" likely you are hitting stuff or your set up is the issue. I noticed no diff in boiling arms.

We have the Pyscho NItro blast here everyyear..and if you have ever attended you know that its mostly cold..however last year we got a break.
Point is when it was cold like that..if you landed the least bit wrong or off camber..you would toast an arm.
Might I suggest that you keep your car/truck warm "prior" to racing. I use a small piece of thermal blanket to cover it. We have power at most of the tracks here in the greater Atlanta area but I do use a gen to run my A/C in trailer. If you have access to power then keep your unit warm prior to putting on track (small ceramic space heater works great Hope this helps
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:26 PM
  #17913  
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Originally Posted by mebolson
Am I the only one breaking an abnormal amount of A-arms? Front and rear, none seem to last. Getting to the point of changing brands because of it. I have tried boiling with no success. I really like my car, but might change out of frustration.
Is it just me?
E
I only broke one arm in four years, and that was running into a fencepost.

Seems really odd that you are breaking so many. Is it really cold where you run?

Also, the screws for the shocks, do not overtighten them or the arm will break in this location. Overtightening them serves no purpouse.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:28 PM
  #17914  
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I also only one arm broke in three years.

Best Regards.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:25 PM
  #17915  
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Thank you guys for the input. I gather it is likely more of a temp issue. It hasn't been extremely cold yet, but I think when it drops below 50ish it might be making a difference.
E
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:04 AM
  #17916  
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im using old model amb transponder unit..
so far i put it in the rx box with no probs
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-dsc_0063.jpg  
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:09 AM
  #17917  
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hi guys
i' ve just started to build my new mbx6r,
(bag A and B) and i already like it..feels very different from my durango,both are very nice and very refined..but mugen looks more like they are built to race..no fancy stuff..just quality and durability. Hope to get this feeling also from the track.

I just need a little help from you, by asking 2 questions:

1) which is the difference you feel in driving when you move the battery from rear to front position??

2) i' m having a little trouble trying to understand the manual as far as rear-back diff holder is concerned. the aluminum piece in which you need to put the small pieces for toe in and kik up..i can't find out which is the standard setup, because on the setup sheet that comes with the kit, you have the plastic peace instead of the aluminum one, which is different because it does not have any inserts..can you guys help me on this?


thanks a lot
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:43 PM
  #17918  
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Use three degrees of toe in. also i advice to use them with the hole down and minimum antisquat. This gives you the easyest car to drive. If you need the car more agressive, you have alot of potential.

Use battery forward. You get a car that jumps better, steering is better and if the car loose its rear end, it is alot esyer to take it back in control when you have the battery forward.

Key to fast laptimes is a stable car that keeps corner speed, not the car that has the most agressive steering ;-)
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:39 AM
  #17919  
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got plenty of dust entering my receiver box how do you guys seal it ?
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:23 PM
  #17920  
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i do not.... :-)
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:18 PM
  #17921  
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Originally Posted by yollie
got plenty of dust entering my receiver box how do you guys seal it ?
just stick the receiver in a balloon to keep the dust out of it
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:15 PM
  #17922  
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With amain dropping the price to $499 one would suggest a new version is due shortly (after worlds?). Might get those weak arms finally fixed!
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:19 AM
  #17923  
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fuel filter direction wich one is going to carburetor?? the short part or the longer part i'm a little confuse here. since i got much bubble from my last run

finally fix my rear grip. go from 3toe 1squat to 2.5toe 1squat. it goes reaalllyyy nice and fast. raise my kick up to max kick up and jumps better with too many high jumps in my track.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:49 AM
  #17924  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
2.75/1 toe plate rear
86/10,75 springs for the rear, and 75/9,75 for the front (the old black ones, I haven't tried the new silvers, but just go with something equally soft in silver if that's what you wanna use)
Ride height is a key here, keep arms level, high riding gives you less grip, so you want to drop a little lower than level arms, only just
limit suspension travel (droop?) to three fingers under chassis
2 degree front, 3 degree rear camber
450/400 shock oils
lower arm shock mounts all outside
upper tower shock mount rear middle hole (out of five)
upper tower front innermost hole
rear hub carrier lower hole, wheelbase longest (all spacers front)
upper link rear middle hole outer, middle hole inner (more down more grip)
I've been running 7k/7k/5k
1.5 toe out front
depending on driving style experiment with the spacers for the front upper arm, moving the upper arm forwards or rearwards gives you a bit more or a bit less steering

If you set the car up like this, you should have plenty rear grip, almost so much that the car has a very very slight tendency to push on throttle in corners.
Moving the rear shock tower hole in gives you less tracion more steering, and moving it out gives you more traction less steering.

Good luck m8




thank you mate.i will go with your set up.
BUT!there is a problem!i use losi 8 rear shocks at the front.they are the only that i have.so i can not use the mugen pistons.do you know which losi's are equal with the stock mugen's?
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:41 PM
  #17925  
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Thumbs up Fioroni "Dual Action" Shock Pistons

We have two remaining sets of these hard to find pistons. We include a spare piston ring with each set ordered.

Reduced Price! S O L D ! Thanks peeps

http://racemugen.com/catalog/fioroni...ns-p-1032.html


Last edited by Danzo; 10-23-2012 at 11:41 AM. Reason: product sold
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