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Mugen MBX6

Old 06-28-2012, 06:56 AM
  #16996  
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Originally Posted by BigP
ROAR 2012 Setups of Taylor Petersen and Barry Pettit

Hello
Have someone contact to Taylor Petersen and/or Barry Pettit to get their setup's of the Mugen MBX6R here online?
If Chad Bradley was at the ROAR Nats he could post the setup too :-)
Thanks.
We will get those posted as soon as possible. It's been a "catch up" week at work. Both truggy and buggy worked great.
We would like to send out a BIG thanks to all those that support us, also everyone who supported us on RC Live as well as our friends at the track! A special thanks to Kris from Mugen, John McGinty, and Chris Chim in the the pits!

GO MUGEN!
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:11 AM
  #16997  
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Originally Posted by Flanno
cheers Craige

yep I run CSI BLUE in both, with 600 in buggy and 650 in truggy so far working good. Just curious about the springs for now.
That is way to thin of oil for those pistons. Try going thicker and I guarantee you will like it. You should really be running the CSI Black in the truggy.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:16 AM
  #16998  
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Originally Posted by colby233
I am running a Werks light clutch with 2 carbon shoes with .9 springs and 2 aluminum shoes with 1.0 springs. I will be buying a Buku soon to give it a try on the buggy.
What clutch bell do use with the Werks?
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:27 AM
  #16999  
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Originally Posted by revo61
What clutch bell do use with the Werks?
Protek ones, for mbx5. Mbx6 ones are to long and hit the tank.
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by colby233
Protek ones, for mbx5. Mbx6 ones are to long and hit the tank.
This one?
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:35 AM
  #17001  
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Originally Posted by BPettit
We will get those posted as soon as possible. It's been a "catch up" week at work. Both truggy and buggy worked great.
We would like to send out a BIG thanks to all those that support us, also everyone who supported us on RC Live as well as our friends at the track! A special thanks to Kris from Mugen, John McGinty, and Chris Chim in the the pits!

GO MUGEN!
Please e-mail them to me too
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:29 AM
  #17002  
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Originally Posted by revo61
Yep.
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:18 PM
  #17003  
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Originally Posted by Sprinkler
That is way to thin of oil for those pistons. Try going thicker and I guarantee you will like it. You should really be running the CSI Black in the truggy.
Cheers John, I liked it, both the buggy and truggy were quite settled, Ran pistons and oil as suggested in the panflete that came with them based on the track conditions, way better than the stock pistons.......... but I'll give that a try too.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:14 PM
  #17004  
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I was having pit stop flaming issues until I installed the Tamiya 801x tank. It fits right in and I only had to drill one hole for the rear tank post. I raced all day Saturday with no issues on pit stops.

Mugen MBX6-tank.jpg
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:43 AM
  #17005  
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Originally Posted by Torian4000
I was having pit stop flaming issues until I installed the Tamiya 801x tank. It fits right in and I only had to drill one hole for the rear tank post. I raced all day Saturday with no issues on pit stops.

Attachment 940751
Glad to see you have solved your issue.

However you shouldn't need another tank to solve it, there's no issue with the tank itself, but depending on how the fuel is put in the tank, it can cause flame outs.

We have seen issues mainly when the pit crew used certain fuel gun brands, like the losi for example, which fills the tank right up to the brim. Then, and because the tank lid goes inside the neck for sealing, if the lid is released too hard, will cause an increase of pressure in the tank, pushing the fuel down the fuel and pressure lines, and causing a flame out. It's easy to spot this issue as it happens as soon as the lid is released.

There are 2 solutions, the first is to change fuel gun for one that doesn't fill the tank as much. I use a RB and have NEVER had a flame out at the pit stops. The second solution is much cheaper, it's to have your pit rew release the lid gently. The only issue with this is that your pit crew must remember this every time.

To say that the tank is too thin and shrinks when cool fuel is put in is just plain wrong, the thickness of the tank has no effect on how much the tank will expand, so if that was the case all the other tanks on the market would have this issue and tanks would not be near the pipe or engine on any car.

Hope this helps those out there who are having this issue.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:55 AM
  #17006  
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or you could just tune the engine, I fill mine (well my pit crew does) rite to the brim, and I don't have that issue.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:27 AM
  #17007  
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Glad to see you have solved your issue.

However you shouldn't need another tank to solve it, there's no issue with the tank itself, but depending on how the fuel is put in the tank, it can cause flame outs.

We have seen issues mainly when the pit crew used certain fuel gun brands, like the losi for example, which fills the tank right up to the brim. Then, and because the tank lid goes inside the neck for sealing, if the lid is released too hard, will cause an increase of pressure in the tank, pushing the fuel down the fuel and pressure lines, and causing a flame out. It's easy to spot this issue as it happens as soon as the lid is released.

There are 2 solutions, the first is to change fuel gun for one that doesn't fill the tank as much. I use a RB and have NEVER had a flame out at the pit stops. The second solution is much cheaper, it's to have your pit rew release the lid gently. The only issue with this is that your pit crew must remember this every time.

To say that the tank is too thin and shrinks when cool fuel is put in is just plain wrong, the thickness of the tank has no effect on how much the tank will expand, so if that was the case all the other tanks on the market would have this issue and tanks would not be near the pipe or engine on any car.

Hope this helps those out there who are having this issue.
The gun does not have anything to do with it dude. I use a Losi fuel gun and I don't have flame out issues ever after refueling.

I'm not saying there is no problem. Some people have this issue and some people don't.

A couple things you can try:
Make sure you have at least 7-9" of fuel tubing for your pressure line.
Install an exhaust gas cooler.

We have 4 nitro vehicles and none of them have flame out issues leaving the pits after refueling.

Hope that helps!!!
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:41 AM
  #17008  
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I'm not saying that the mugen tanks are bad. Maybe I had a bad one, I don't really know for sure. I've been tuning .21 engines since 2001 and racing since 2005. I'm no newbie that would make false claims and blame flaming out on a bad tank if I wasn't sure that was actually the case. Some people have had an issue and some haven't. My post was intended to show those who have had the bad tank issue that there is an alternative. I wasn't trying to start a flame war! Anyone who knows me or has raced against me knows that I know what I'm talking about.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:00 AM
  #17009  
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put one of the 21mm bearing seals under the oring in the cap of the tank. It makes the tank seal way better in some instances than the stock does...it helps squash the oring as you tighten it so it presses out some and seals better...i do this every time i get a new tank (im on my third for various reasons). i always tell the person refueling my kar to pull the lif open by the puller and just let it go when his done, instead of closing it in a civilized manner so to speak haha, this way it smacks shut and i dont have to worry about it not being closed properly....which has happened before.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:34 AM
  #17010  
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Originally Posted by MadRussian
Please e-mail them to me too
Can you email me your setups also? [email protected]
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