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Mugen MBX6

Old 12-02-2008, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Boz
which is the softest to the hardest spring in the MBX6 spring range?
The more turns the spring has the softer the spring , so a 9Turn spring will be harder than a 9.5Turn

Hope this helps
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:01 AM
  #1667  
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I just order my MBX-6. $525-157.50=$367.50 (free shipping too)

Not bad at all I must say. I really had a hard time choosing between the D8 and the MBX, but in the end I think if I got the D8 I'd always be wish I had bought a Mugen. Maybe with the Mugen I'll be wish I bought an 808.

Since I can't drive for crap I'll spend some practicing with my Thunder Tiger EB-4 S3 for a while, once I know the track I'll put the Mugen out there.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Firefox
I just ordered my first 1/8th buggy, a Mugan MBX6.
I need some advise on a decent, not top of the line/price, radio, receiver, serco combination for this car. Hopefully a 2.4 system.

Thankyou for any advise you can offer.

Firefox
I am sure you will get a huge list froma different amount of people on here, but my theory is, buy the right things once and you will save a ton down the road...some learn the hard way and others learn the right way the first time around. But here is what i would get:

Radio, KO Propo:

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=3580

Servos, Hitec 5955, or 5998, Hitec servos have been awesome, been using the same set for the past year:

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1340

and if you are new to nitro tuning and need a motor as well, buy the novarossi 3 port motor, its cheap but extremely reliable and not over powered:

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idcategory=336

You can run a JP3 with the 3 port for like 60 bucks, you might need to bend the header a tad bit to get it to fit nicely in the buggy, or you can spend 100 dollars on a nice pipe, like the 2060 or a 2050...or a Mugen 1005 pipe, the 1005 worked awesome on my old 3 port.

or if you are an experienced tuner or know how to properly care for a nitro engine, i say spend the money on buying an OS Vspec, one of the easiest and most reliable motors out there....there are a ton more, but yea..
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:36 AM
  #1669  
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What springs came in the kit? Medium or hard. I want to get a softer set but I'm not sure what I have now, they are black.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RBMike
What springs came in the kit? Medium or hard. I want to get a softer set but I'm not sure what I have now, they are black.
all of the new springs are so far the same color, the higher the # of turns the softer the spring, a 10.5t is softer than the 10.25. med. come in the kit.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:21 PM
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Thanks Allan
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Old 12-02-2008, 01:51 PM
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regarding a radio, don't know if you are interested but I picked up an Mx-3 with Fasst for $149. Will do everything I need IMO. Amain has also has 10% off purchases over 100.

Last edited by the buggyman; 12-02-2008 at 01:52 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-02-2008, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by allan42r
all of the new springs are so far the same color, the higher the # of turns the softer the spring, a 10.5t is softer than the 10.25. med. come in the kit.
Stock MBX6 kit was 9.25/75 front spring 10.25/86 rear spring. If you go softer, try a half coil more spring front and rear. I think 9.75F/10.75 should be fine. The tags will come off the springs, so you may want to add a paint mark and note the info.
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:10 PM
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I tried softer sway bars (2.2 front and 2.7 rear) at the RC Pro Finals (big, rough, slick track) and hated them.

I have the rear springs that are one step softer than stock (0.25 turn longer), and I think they are an improvement. I'll get some of the softer ones too and try them once they are out. The front I'm not sure need to be softer. I feel like the car tends to go tail high through bumps so I may even try the stiffer front springs, but I will try softer rear springs first.

There is nothing wrong with the stock front lower arms. They seem stronger than the 5R arms which were pretty good after the initial launch. You do need to cut down the extra threads on the pivot balls that stick above the ackermann plate. That will prevent a lot of problems with the upper arms and the upper arm holder.
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:26 PM
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We used the 2.3/2.8 sway bars. Also we moved the shocks out one front center on the towers and outside hole on the arms. With the softer springs, he amde the car more predictable. Stock springs would make is more twitchy when pushed hard. Will try tightening the swaybars up some to see how much changes it will make.
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:32 PM
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hi guys!
can i use the mbx5r diffs in the mbx6 bulkheads
[with his pinions of course].
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGORY!
hi guys!
can i use the mbx5r diffs in the mbx6 bulkheads
[with his pinions of course].
the new outdrives shoulder is milled down to clear the new diff cases. if you use the new outdrive/pin(which is a larger dia.) and the new gear with a larger slot for the pin you can but the ring and pinion are not the same as the 5
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:59 AM
  #1678  
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just finished her up
I NEEEED TO RUN IT



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Old 12-03-2008, 11:04 AM
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Is that the Proline body? Mine didn't fit well at all. The servo arms hit the body side badly,and the exhaust pressure nipple prevents the body from sitting down all the way.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:02 PM
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Ya its the proline body. Proline has made a running change to their molds which now have bigger clearances over the throttle and steering servo. the body on the newer mold is also different around the pipe.

This is the old body mold. a not as thick aluminum servo horn works fine and i have a JP3 in it which is a little thicker than most pipes.

I recently ordered another shift body from towerhobbies.com and got a newer mold.
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