Mugen MBX6

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Old 04-15-2012, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by skye b. View Post
Im hoping this just got lost in the thread Can you guys please help me out a little. I really just need to know what diff/shock oils and springs and sway bars to order. Anything else thats a mandatory.
Thanks
diff oils i would get is 3k-10k, get the silver spring kit (great tuning tool), 350-500 shock oil... ive always stuck with stock sway bars.

i use 500 front 400 rear shock oil, 7-10-7 in diffs, 7.5 front springs, kyosho light blue 84mm rear shock spring. the mugen silver springs are good tho, i just preferred the kyosho a little more.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:03 PM
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Ok, as far as spares get all of the normals... Set of A-arms and hinge pins, shock tower, all of the norms, I know it is vague, but to be honest I really have not broken a single thing in 4 months with the mugen. Had a motor mount screw come loose so i stripped the spur and clutch bell but that is it.

Get the so called (new) silver spring set. $80 but you will be set there!!!! For diff fluids get 2,3,5, and 7. Should be all you need. I personally never stray from the stock 7,7,3 and love it on all tracks!!!! For diff fluid get 350, 400, 450, 500, and 550. That should cover you. On large big jump tracks I run 450 f, 400r. On small tracks, or when it is cold I run 400f and 350r. In my opinion the buggy is so good in box stock form and I have made a few small changes here and there but really besides springs I am pretty close to the stock setup and love it!!!!!!!
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:27 PM
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From reading the Mugen 1/8 'setup sheets' it shows the 'rebound stop', which is common on 1/8 scales for years. Anyway, others racers say instead to measure the shock length from screw to screw.
So which one should be used or be more accurate?
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:27 AM
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I think the moast accurate way of messure downstop is to tke the shocks of the car and then messure how long the distance between the messureplate and the suspension arm.

When you messure the length of the shock, it will not be the same when you move the shock to change the setup of your shocks.

But on the Mugen car we very rearly change shockpositions. As long as you do not change shockposition, messure shocklength is good enough.

hope this helps :-)
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:29 AM
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Thanks MJealey and Jmax. Makes me feel a little more confident that the one thing I keep hearing is how good the car is out of the box. Recomended iff/shock oils, springs, and arms ordered. With the Kyosho it was always 5-5-3 so the Mugen setup is definitelly different. Think im going to try to run at least one day on the box stock setup.Only because I have never done that with any car ive had and its probable that I wont even get the car built more than 8 hours before my next scheduled race. Like I said, Im cutting it close
I really really want to love this car. I loved the K car but hated what it did to my bank account. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions!
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:55 AM
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Make sure you run a decent amount of fuel through the car before deciding that the setup needs changing. The driveline will break in and my car felt like it changed a fair bit.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Make sure you run a decent amount of fuel through the car before deciding that the setup needs changing. The driveline will break in and my car felt like it changed a fair bit.
+1, they take about a gallon to break in and free up... shim diffs tight, they will free up and if you shim them free, you can strip ring and pinion gear.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:34 PM
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true indeed. To me a brand new buggy is always way to stiff like a brand new pair of tennis shoes. After you run a few races and after your 8 tanks of break-in fuel too, your car has settled in it places and starts to feel better.

Originally Posted by Semple View Post
Make sure you run a decent amount of fuel through the car before deciding that the setup needs changing. The driveline will break in and my car felt like it changed a fair bit.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:48 PM
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Yep. I ran Losi the past two seasons and it was even more obvious there. All buggies take some breaking in, but those cars don't handle right until they're sloppy.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:01 AM
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Thanks guys. The TKI2 was the same way. Drivetrain was super tight almost to the point of binding at first, but after about half a gallon it was butter. Same with suspension, car loosened up dramaticlly.
Thought I was getting the U.S. spec tomorrow(hook up straight from Mugen), but was told today that they are not expected at the warehouse until the 23rd now. So for anyone who has a preorder in, it looks like it might be a few days later than the original expected store arival date. Thats assuming that once the kits get to Mugen, they then have to ship them out to the vendors.
Im not positive thats how it works, just passing along the information.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
+1, they take about a gallon to break in and free up... shim diffs tight, they will free up and if you shim them free, you can strip ring and pinion gear.
The freeing up is more to do with the diffs internal gears bedding in and running smoother.
I would not shim your buggy crown and pinion gears tight, a guy in our club did that and he over heated the pinion bearing and melted the rear diff housing.
I'm not sure if the 6r is different from the 6 buggy but I alway run 1 shim on the right hand side then later after a few months running if needed add 1 shim to the left side, i have never had any stripped crowns in any of the 3 mbx6 buggys i've run...truggy is a different story, you must shim as close as possible but still don't over do the mesh so its binding.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:46 AM
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I agree, I recommend leaving a bit of room for the gears, and go back later like stated above...

One little tip I read on here a while ago and it helped out quite a bit with gearmesh is to cut little strips of thin lexan, they used thin sheet metal..the part from the body trimmings that is thinner than the body, the same width as the bearings and superglue them on the inside of the bulkhead cover where the bearing rides, on the Mugen the cover does not completely hold the bearing tight in the bulkhead from front to back, then you can shim the diffs just right and it won't back off at all.

Also, one other trick that my buddy Mike came up with is to put one medium silver diff shim in the bulkhead before you install the outer pinion bearing. this clears the flat spot on the pinion so the set screw holds the gear tightly and prevents the bearing from digging in the bulkhead and loosening the fit and will prevent it from moving in and out on the mesh and wearing the radial cut gears that need to be aligned perfectly. You will know when it's moving because your diff cups will have cuts on them from the pinion rubbing. this will prevent that from happening.

I've only slightly damaged one ring and pinion in over a year, and that was because the outdrive bearing failed during a see how many races I can run without rebuilding my buggy testing. It was 8 full race days and a couple practice days..Not bad...
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:24 AM
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What do you guys use to adjust the rear camber.

The worst thing with Mugen is their silly holes rather then a proper hex on the camber link.

Reckward do a special tool but can't find anyone who stocks it. I can do it with a standard hex driver through the hole, but it's a bit ungainly.

Any ideas welcome, thanks
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Flipfly View Post
What do you guys use to adjust the rear camber.

The worst thing with Mugen is their silly holes rather then a proper hex on the camber link.

Reckward do a special tool but can't find anyone who stocks it. I can do it with a standard hex driver through the hole, but it's a bit ungainly.

Any ideas welcome, thanks
I use a small L shaped hex wrench. Works great.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:30 PM
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i can't wait for my mbx6r us spec to arrive. as luck would have it, i've had to cover a bunch of extra shifts this past 2 weeks. i already made enough to buy 2 of them
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