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Mugen MBX6

Old 03-05-2012, 11:17 PM
  #15751  
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Originally Posted by whiskyshooter
Hey I was just doing a rebuild on my 6r shocks and in my line of sight was a pack of losi foams from last year. Has anyone ever used them on the mugen?
im not sure if they are tall enough for the mugen bladders? ive been running the same setup i used to have in my 2011 xray. i use the ribbed xray bladders and the xray foams...i did not drill the caps..yet, i used to do this in my xray but i had 2 sets of shocks - one drilled and one stock with the same bladder foam setup and i could really tell the difference between drilled and not.I still need to run the stock mugen bladders, but so far my current setup is working nicely. the shocks stay very consistent throughout the day and that extra pop coming off the jumps is nice. the bladder also never collapse. the reason why i never ran the mugen bladders before is when i built them for the very first time i could collapse them with only a little push while seated in the cap. this was not an issue with the xray setup so i ended up just building them like that. and because the xray is not quite 15mm, but rather 15,3mm..it is a nice tight seal too.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:20 AM
  #15752  
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I wonder if Mugen will ever do a vented bell, would have been a nice addition to the 6R.
I've run a few different brand bells on the 4 shoe, the Mugen and VP-Pro meshed the nicest, the acendancy was the worst, even with a new spur gear I couldn't a smooth mesh, the teeth look fatter...I also find with running a 4 shoe the mugen bell is slightly smaller and engages the clutch earlier, good when the shoes are very worn and on the green springs.

with the 6R has Mugen kept the same diff ratios?...a friend of mine told me they were different, possibly the o/drive( Lower ratio) set F and R with the 44 spur would make it the same as the 46.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:18 AM
  #15753  
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Crash/BigNasty-Much obliged.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:07 AM
  #15754  
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Here's the setup I ran at the Nitro Challenge, not too different from the last setup I posted. I did make a few changes, that seemed to really help at the fear farm. I ran the wheel hexes that Peterson and the team likes (+1mm in the front and +2mm rear).

I took some active caster out by using the middle insert on the upper front arm for the shock tower and used the lower hole insert on the mount above the steering bellcranks.

Raised the steering rack 2mm to take some bump steer out at full compression.

Car worked really good, learned alot
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
MBX6-R Nitro Challenge Setup.pdf (322.7 KB, 544 views)
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:21 AM
  #15755  
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been playing alot with the rear roll center. going between the -1 hight and 3 degree rear toe and the middle antisquat postion (I'll call this A postion). The other roll center 0 hight 3 degree toe and upper antisquat postion (Call this B)

"A" is easier to drive, rear feels softer around the track and doesnt transfer a bunch of weight to the front when entering a turn. I prefer this position.

"B" I think may be faster, but is harder to drive and less consistent. I dont like how high the rear end stays when entering the turns, but has a little more forward traction on the exit compared to A settings. B jumps further, may traction roll easier and catch bumps in the turns.

"A" will be my standard rear roll center/antisquat positon for most conditions. "B" I will consider if the conditions are loose and smooth
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:22 AM
  #15756  
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Originally Posted by chad bradley
Here's the setup I ran at the Nitro Challenge, not too different from the last setup I posted. I did make a few changes, that seemed to really help at the fear farm. I ran the wheel hexes that Peterson and the team likes (+1mm in the front and +2mm rear).

I took some active caster out by using the middle insert on the upper front arm for the shock tower and used the lower hole insert on the mount above the steering bellcranks.

Raised the steering rack 2mm to take some bump steer out at full compression.

Car worked really good, learned alot
How that steering rack raising is made? Any chances to get picture of that?
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:47 AM
  #15757  
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Originally Posted by RookieForever
How that steering rack raising is made? Any chances to get picture of that?
I'll try to get a pic up asap.

But its super easy to do, you just need 2mm worth of steel warshers for each side of the rack where it bolts to the plastic steering bell cranks and you may need 2 screws that are slightly longer than the stock. The washers go below the steering rack, between the rack and bell crank.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:48 AM
  #15758  
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Chad, do you run the truggy rear tower?
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:44 AM
  #15759  
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Originally Posted by chad bradley
been playing alot with the rear roll center. going between the -1 hight and 3 degree rear toe and the middle antisquat postion (I'll call this A postion). The other roll center 0 hight 3 degree toe and upper antisquat postion (Call this B)

"A" is easier to drive, rear feels softer around the track and doesnt transfer a bunch of weight to the front when entering a turn. I prefer this position.

"B" I think may be faster, but is harder to drive and less consistent. I dont like how high the rear end stays when entering the turns, but has a little more forward traction on the exit compared to A settings. B jumps further, may traction roll easier and catch bumps in the turns.

"A" will be my standard rear roll center/antisquat positon for most conditions. "B" I will consider if the conditions are loose and smooth
Chad hi,
The set up you used in fear farm is not position A nor B,correct? What are the characteristics/benefits of this position?
Thank you.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:45 PM
  #15760  
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Thats interesting info on anti squat settings, I must be running too much as I use the -1 and the upper hole at the front, what adverse effects will this have on the buggy?
In truggy I run the "A' position.

Craig
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:25 PM
  #15761  
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Just about to pull the trigger on a couple of new servo's for the 'R'. I am planning on running a stickman pack (non LIPO). I was going to go for 2 x Savox 1256TG's. Thoughts?

Cheers
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by prowlag
Just about to pull the trigger on a couple of new servo's for the 'R'. I am planning on running a stickman pack (non LIPO). I was going to go for 2 x Savox 1256TG's. Thoughts?

Cheers
Great servos! i use the 1256 and 1257 savox with a LiFe battery, and love them. The only problem ive had is a stripped main gear on my 1256 after crashing into someone that was goin the wrong way down the straight. The 126X series have stronger steel gears instead of the Ti, and handle staight lipo if you ever decide to upgrade down the road.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:48 PM
  #15763  
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Originally Posted by plus2ss
Great servos! i use the 1256 and 1257 savox with a LiFe battery, and love them. The only problem ive had is a stripped main gear on my 1256 after crashing into someone that was goin the wrong way down the straight. The 126X series have stronger steel gears instead of the Ti, and handle staight lipo if you ever decide to upgrade down the road.
Do you have the 1256 on the steering or throttle?
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:20 PM
  #15764  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
Thats interesting info on anti squat settings, I must be running too much as I use the -1 and the upper hole at the front, what adverse effects will this have on the buggy?
In truggy I run the "A' position.

Craig
I was accidently running that setup and that was a whole lot of anti-squat. Just like the naming, it made it such that the rear end didn't compress (squat) on acceleration. This made the rear end sit high and I didn't like it. Generally, more anti-squat gives you more rear traction when accelerating, but less traction off power.

For smooth tracks where you can get on the power quickly out of turns and have lots of traction, you should try this position to see if you like it. If the conditions are the same and you have lots of jumps coming out of a corner and have very little run up, this might help.

For bumpier tracks, and tracks with less traction, this position seemed to be way too much anti-squat.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:05 PM
  #15765  
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Originally Posted by chad bradley
Here's the setup I ran at the Nitro Challenge, not too different from the last setup I posted. I did make a few changes, that seemed to really help at the fear farm. I ran the wheel hexes that Peterson and the team likes (+1mm in the front and +2mm rear).

I took some active caster out by using the middle insert on the upper front arm for the shock tower and used the lower hole insert on the mount above the steering bellcranks.

Raised the steering rack 2mm to take some bump steer out at full compression.

Car worked really good, learned alot
The setup sheet seems to be be empty chad ?
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