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Mugen MBX6

Old 03-05-2012, 05:21 AM
  #15721  
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Default Droop settings

Buildign an MBX6R and just about complete. Any suggestions for front and rear droop (down stop) settings. Downloaded Bradley,s set up sheet posted on this forum, but did not see a setting for the down stops. I'm using the hudy setup blocks . Thanks
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:28 AM
  #15722  
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
Buildign an MBX6R and just about complete. Any suggestions for front and rear droop (down stop) settings. Downloaded Bradley,s set up sheet posted on this forum, but did not see a setting for the down stops. I'm using the hudy setup blocks . Thanks
Bradley is running 109mm and 128mm, he measures center to center on his shocks.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:00 AM
  #15723  
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Don't everyone answer at once.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:09 AM
  #15724  
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what up Dreaux, Im VERY new to the car, so I hope this helps....looks like you still need the following:

44t spur
battery forward style radio tray


my car should be here today, I am going to do Amezcua's Sidewinder setup with heavier diffs to start with.....7f/7c/5r
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:14 AM
  #15725  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
Hey guys. Getting back into the new year and noticed that they upgraded the six. I have bce+2 chassis, full silver spring set, aluminum hubs, front anti dive and rear toe blocks from m2c, front upper aluminum mount also. What else would I need to bring it up to 6r standards? Battery tray?

Also nothing but problems with the m2c rear hubs. Even had Mitch change them out. Still kept getting dirt in the bulkhead and the suspension pins kept poping out. No problems with the stock plastic ones. Think I will get the mugen aluminum one.

Anything else?
IMO the battery forward is not needed at this time. I do not run mine, it jumps funny and turns weird and loses traction ... Setup wise, look on the bce topic, I posted my base setup for the bce chassis a page or two back. It should get you going good and you can make small tweaks to fit your driving style.

Also, I would get the 44 spur, helps tame the buggy def with the power engines make now.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:06 AM
  #15726  
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Also, I would get the 44 spur, helps tame the buggy def with the power engines make now.[/QUOTE]



Would going up to a 14 tooth on the bell and using the stock MBX 6 spur be about the same, or would that be gearing up to much?

How about the .9 clutch springs, has anybody tried them?

I run stock MBX 6 gearing and clutch on a small indoor track. I like it that way, but Ive never tried anything else.

Thanks
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:14 AM
  #15727  
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I'm in the process of building my first nitro. Any opinions on the difference between 3 and 4 shoe clutch systems?
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:03 AM
  #15728  
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Originally Posted by DLF
Let's talk starter boxes for a moment. I'm sure everyone has one they hate, but I just need one that will hold a 12v gel cell battery and work well with the 6R.

I have an Associated one now and have used it for the last couple of cars. I'm having a bit of trouble getting it to work with the 6R however.

I was going to get one of the Mugen boxes, but they seem to be a bit hard to get right now.

I got one of these and put a 4s lipo in it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ox-w-12V-Motor

still heavy but it's a sturdy box.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:41 AM
  #15729  
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Originally Posted by K. Wood
Also, I would get the 44 spur, helps tame the buggy def with the power engines make now.


Would going up to a 14 tooth on the bell and using the stock MBX 6 spur be about the same, or would that be gearing up to much?

How about the .9 clutch springs, has anybody tried them?

I run stock MBX 6 gearing and clutch on a small indoor track. I like it that way, but Ive never tried anything else.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

It will be about the same but engine will be farther away from the center.

As for clutch, I run m2c 4 shoe steel flywheel system and I run 4 .95 springs, on the aluminum flywheel I ran 4 .9 springs and works well

Originally Posted by Numburn
I'm in the process of building my first nitro. Any opinions on the difference between 3 and 4 shoe clutch systems?
IMHO the 4 shoe system is better, more adjustment and seems to slip less and last longer. However some prefer the 3 shoe system.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:49 AM
  #15730  
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Trevor,

I run the Kyosho Blue springs on my Ebuggy with the truggy tower. I have tried them on the nitro car with the truggy tower and found that I did not like them.
We run the 8.5 and the 8.75 rear springs on the nitro car with the truggy tower.
One good think about the Kyosho springs is that they keep the spring retainer locked in place because they are longer. The Mugen springs move up and down on the shock when its fully extended because you have to back the pre load collar way off to get the ride height correct. If you run a lot of rear droop that could be a possible problem during the right crash.

For those asking we also run the 14 tooth bell sometimes at the larger tracks.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:13 AM
  #15731  
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Originally Posted by Numburn
I'm in the process of building my first nitro. Any opinions on the difference between 3 and 4 shoe clutch systems?
4 shoe clutch is way smoother than a 3 shoe IMO, when i need to run a 3 shoe clutch because of lack of parts for my 4 shoe or some other reason, they almost feel...laggy, like you have a slow responding servo or something lol
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:29 AM
  #15732  
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Thanks guys
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:10 PM
  #15733  
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51
IMHO the 4 shoe system is better, more adjustment and seems to slip less and last longer. However some prefer the 3 shoe system.
I also perfer a 4 shoe clutch because of the feeling. I'm used to drive electric and a 4 shoe clutch suits my driving style better.

I have the ascendancy clucht and it has 4 race weekends on it (2.5 gallons) and yesterday 3 springs snapped at once while I was testing a new track layout. The shoes were worn so much that I had no luck with replacing the springs. After a few more tanks of fuel they snapped again.

How long do you're shoes and clutchbell last? Both have 2.5 gallons on it, but it's my first racing nitro buggy so I have no clue when I should replace the clutchbell. I guess they last a little longer then the clutch shoes or am I wrong?
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:54 PM
  #15734  
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gearing comparison

44/13= 3.385
46/13= 3.538
46/14= 3.286

44/13 and 46/14 are very close to the same ratio with the 44/13 being a little lower (higher numerically). As Maxey mentioned you also get the benifit of a slightly more centered engine and slightly lighter driveline.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:58 PM
  #15735  
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Just got done shooting Bobby Moore's JConcepts Punisher bodies for his MBX6R for the Psycho Nitro Blast. Wish I could make it this year. Good luck to the Mugen team!


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