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Mugen MBX6

Old 03-01-2012, 05:21 PM
  #15691  
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Originally Posted by RaffyUK
Hi all , new to the forum and just started running an MBX6R , Loving the car apart from the massive lack of rear on power traction. If the car is not pointing straight when i apply the throttle the rear breaks away. So far i have tried higher rear roll centre , softer rear roll bar ( 2.6) and softer rear shock oils which all seemd to help but still too loose for me at times. Im running 10,10,5 in the diffs but really running out of ideas are when to go next . Any advice would be a car saver before i throw it in the bin lol

Andy
Andy , you can download the hudy setup manual if you don't already have it. It has been a big help to us. Also only do small changes, 1 or maybe 2 at a time, that way you will know what each change does. I know i'm prob. gonna get blasted for this but on some low traction tracks we run nimh battery in the rear. The car can still be fast with that set up. Also if the track isn't to rough you can try lowering the ride height. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:48 PM
  #15692  
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Originally Posted by HH
Around here we run..
Proline M3 and M4 Tazers, Blockades, Snipers, Holeshots, Calibers.
AKA soft and super-soft Gridirons, Impacts, City Blocks.
and I ran all of them trying to correct the problem. It wasn't the tires.


Yeah... I understand that.
Yours along with almost every other MBX6R on the planet seem to work awesome. Unfortunately, there are a few of us lames whose MBX6R step out like a muthaf*r when you get on power. And before you go stating its the driver let me just say that nearly every Mugen driver that I know at my home track.. all drove my buggy while it was "on it's road to recovery", and every single one of them (100%) had a hard time gettin' it around the track without losing the back end.
Hey Harley, when I got my MBX6r, I tried your setup and it stepped out like crazy when exiting corners. You can say it had an insane amount of exit steering to the point that you are looping out on almost every turn. I like to get on throttle exiting a corner as fast as possible and I couldn't do that at all. I had to almost very slowly roll out of every turn.

Now, my car is almost exactly where I want it.

The changes that helped control the rear end on corner exit were:

              I kept ride height level at 28-29mm. I might experiment with the rear 1-2mm higher than the front if I really want to transfer weight to the rear.

              Using soft grid irons. I have recently tried and like Sweep blue square armors and AKA Enduros. M3 Snipers might work since they have insane traction. M3 Calibers have too much rotation and didn't really like them.

              Pretty much everything I did was to make the rear end a little lazier especially on corner exit, and it's worked. It's almost where I want it to be. Definitely much better than when I first had, and now faster than with my Losi 8ight 2.0.
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              Old 03-01-2012, 08:45 PM
                #15693  
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              i was also scared when i read all this +5mm chassis loose rearend bs about the 6R before i got mine...but i can tell you it is (well) mine atleast is on rails compared to my 2011 xray. my setup sounds more inline with what SEF is saying above too. my cousin also has a 6R and i have to say that there are only SMALL differences in setup between our cars but his car is WAY looser than mine..to a point that i cant really push his car to go fast. they only differences between his and mine is that he runs short brace in front, 2.5/1 Rear toe and midle hole for rear hubs....whereass I run 3/1, long front brace and outer hole in the rear hub. the difference is VERY noticeable. his car feels like you are driving on ice compared to mine around our track, but he likes it that way i guess. MY setup currently is:

              3* Toe/1 block rear. centre hinge pins ie stock antisquat
              Long rear camberlink in outside hole rear hub, bottom hole in tower.
              2.5* rear camber.
              Long plastic brace rear...i see alot of people running the AL one because they think it is bling, DONT - you lose so much rear traction it is silly.
              i still use the stock buggy rear tower.
              rear shocks one in from fully out on tower, outer hole on arm - yes I stand my shocks up. Front shocks in the stock positions.
              400 oil rear, 8.5 spring
              450 oil front, 8,25 spring
              stock sway bars - with no added pre-tension.
              long front chassis brace
              currently i run the shortest wheelbase the 6R can since our track layout allows it.
              2* front toe out
              1* front camber
              i run one setting up from stock for front Kickup - use the block inserts.
              i run 1mm shim behind top arm and the rest in front..ie more caster
              109mm droop front
              122mm droop rear
              DEAD shocks...no rebound built in
              27mmF/29mmR rideheight
              i run a Speed 19 in my 6R so it is kitted out with regards to this...ie lighweight AL drivetrain, 46T/13T, 4shoe lightweight clutch/flywheel ---- alot of people overlook this as part of the reasons why their car is losing onpower traction i feel...sometimes a motor and a heavy trigger finger just puts too much power through the drivetrain and it may loose traction due to literally being overpowered. compared to my xray, the mugen's drivetrain is so free that i can def see that this could be one of the issues. clutch/flywheel setup isnt just a bolt on and run affair IMO..it plays a HUGE role in car setup.
              i run 7,10,3 oils at the moment.
              This setup - for me atleast makes the car feel VERY neutral compared to my cousins car...to a point where it almost feels understeery in some corners...but i LITERALLY dont fidget around on throttle through and out of corners...i just go for glory and smash that thing it holds everytime. im trying 10,10,5 oils next to try and dial out some of that "understeer" im refering to and i feel then this car might be VERY close to where i want it.
              i also never go any harder than soft compound tyres in the preferred thread for a track. it's all over this forum...tyres are like 80% + of setup.

              i dunno, around here there has been an influx of new 6R's for the start of the season and they are literally rearranging the pecking order from last year.

              Last edited by Sideshow Bob; 03-01-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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              Old 03-02-2012, 12:05 AM
                #15694  
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              running a protek lipo receiver pack. will i have troubles with my savox 1257?
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              Old 03-02-2012, 02:57 AM
                #15695  
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              Originally Posted by skengines
              running a protek lipo receiver pack. will i have troubles with my savox 1257?
              that servo is not rated for high current best to get a 1267 or 1268 that should work or you can add a regulator be sure its 5amp and you will be able to use the 1257
              cheers
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              Old 03-02-2012, 03:45 AM
                #15696  
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              Originally Posted by HH
              Andy... you could just substitute my name in place of yours for the above post. Approx. 1 month ago that was almost exactly what I was posting as well.

              I also tried the 2.6 anti-sway bar in the rear, along with a 2.4 & 2.5 in the front.
              I tried 7-7-5, 7-7-3, 5-7-3, 5-7-5, white pistons, black pistons, (mug springs)f8.0, f8.25, r8.25, r8.50, r8.75, r buggy tower, r truggy tower, kyosho springs in every color, ride height every combination from 26mm to 31mm, camber links in every length and position, blah blah blah.. the list goes on.

              The buggy still stepped out..

              I put the identical setup (and I mean identical) that a couple of Mugen Factory Pro drivers are running here in So Cal and then I handed those same drivers my 4PK Tx... they couldn't believe it either... it still stepped out.

              The good news is that it did get better, however there hasn't been a "fixall" type of remedy, at least not in my experience. Here are some of the changes that contributed to improving this problem for me.

              First of all Thank You to Donnie Rodriguez (donrod) along with a few others who are not on RCTech, for the assistance, it was/is appreciated.

              - switching from NiMh Rx to the lighter weight of a LiPo Rx forward mounted- (helped somewhat)
              - drilling lower holes in rear truggy tower for more inclined rear shocks (ala donrod ) - (helped somewhat)
              - CSI (Competition Suspension) "blue" pistons with r65wt f70wt Losi oil. - (I know that sounds extreme but it helped a little more than somewhat)
              - BCE X3 Chassis (+3mm longer than standard, -2mm shorter than 6R) - (helped a good amount)
              - placed washers/shims under the steering linkage ball studs at the ackerman and at the steering knuckles to eliminate the "full droop bumpsteer" - (helped a good amount)
              - went to f 3k- c 5k- r 2k - (helped quite a bit)

              I've attached the setup sheet below that is working with these changes above.

              Good Luck
              just give the car less anti-squat @ rear > more on power weight to the rear that´s all.
              diffs 7-7-3 & you´re done !
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              Old 03-02-2012, 05:05 AM
                #15697  
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              Hi all thanks for the brilliant support and replies, Have tried all sorts of different tyres and still suffers the same ish. Will try less Anti squat first and see how that goes. Then probably try 7 in the centre diff . Will let you know how i get on and if it has worked.

              ANdy
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              Old 03-02-2012, 09:56 AM
                #15698  
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              Harley,

              After a lot of testing and re-testing and testing some more I seem to have found a setup that works for me at Rev. I have to say the that Mile Shirly helped me a ton and every tip he gave me made the car even better. What funny is I am doing the EXACT opposite of what I originally tried, my diff setup is 7k10k5k now and the car seems to really do better with thick fluids.

              anyways give it a try Harley if you can and let me know if you like it,

              Kevin Thatcher

              I am also going to try some of your advise with the steering links
              Attached Files
              File Type: pdf
              MBX6 rev setup021812.pdf (316.8 KB, 383 views)
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              Old 03-02-2012, 12:32 PM
                #15699  
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              can someone please link me to Amezcua's mbx6 rear truggy tower setup sheet, I cant seem to find out but I heard it's out there somewhere.....thanks!

              TW

              oh and my manifold problems are resolved......Im going with a Novarossi 21-4 and a 41029 header w/9901 pipe....easy way out.....I have only ran Nova's and a OS Speed in the past, so I will be more comfortable with my decision in the long run and have a correct install at the same time.....I also just realized that the car I got has a Mugen upper alum. arm holder and Mugen alum. rear hubs as well that are coming with it.
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              Old 03-02-2012, 01:02 PM
                #15700  
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              Actually the aluminum rear hubs give you less grip.
              The plastic ones flex a little bit, so allows you to get a bit more grip.
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              Old 03-02-2012, 01:06 PM
                #15701  
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              I have stock rear hubs as well
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              Old 03-02-2012, 01:09 PM
                #15702  
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              Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
              can someone please link me to Amezcua's mbx6 rear truggy tower setup sheet, I cant seem to find out but I heard it's out there somewhere.....thanks!

              TW

              oh and my manifold problems are resolved......Im going with a Novarossi 21-4 and a 41029 header w/9901 pipe....easy way out.....I have only ran Nova's and a OS Speed in the past, so I will be more comfortable with my decision in the long run and have a correct install at the same time.....I also just realized that the car I got has a Mugen upper alum. arm holder and Mugen alum. rear hubs as well that are coming with it.
              I'm interested as well, and good choice on the engine/pipe combo
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              Old 03-02-2012, 01:19 PM
                #15703  
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              Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
              I have stock rear hubs as well
              Yeah, it's probably better you run those, they'll give more grip.
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              Old 03-02-2012, 02:14 PM
                #15704  
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              Actually the alum rear hubs gave us more rear traction because they don't flex and lock the rear end more. Test them back to back and see what you think. What I did not like about them is they bent the lower pin to easily on the pot holes.
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              Old 03-02-2012, 03:49 PM
                #15705  
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              Exclamation buggy f/s feeler

              haven't had time to get to the track over the past couple of months n wont for another couple so im selling my buggy. if anyone is interested lmk.. fastrace chassis, revs 337 racing gears, aftermarket battery forward, mugen rear truck tower with custom super clean rear body mount. PM or email for inquiry. [email protected]

              Last edited by jpalessi; 03-03-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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