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Mugen MBX6

Old 02-29-2012, 08:30 PM
  #15676  
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I am not to sure it will change the tune, but it can for sure burn holes in the body and even the mud guard.

The pipe and header can also get dented and damaged easier if it is in close contact to the above.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ronsand
I am not to sure it will change the tune, but it can for sure burn holes in the body and even the mud guard.

The pipe and header can also get dented and damaged easier if it is in close contact to the above.
Well I may just keep using it because the side guards have not melted any and it does not touch the body at all. Side guards are not too flexible anyway so I doubt they put any extra force on the pipe to torque on the gaskets and alter the tune.
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:42 AM
  #15678  
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Originally Posted by pl_unc86
When i ran the Mbx6 and the werks 2013 i remember using the dynamite headers as well but i don't think the holes line up with the werks pipe and I ended up just running the springs the best i could to match up with the header.


That particular header may be different from the one i used but that's what i remember at least


I think we had to drill one hole to make them match up, no big deal.
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:43 AM
  #15679  
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Default On power traction

Hi all , new to the forum and just started running an MBX6R , Loving the car apart from the massive lack of rear on power traction. If the car is not pointing straight when i apply the throttle the rear breaks away. So far i have tried higher rear roll centre , softer rear roll bar ( 2.6) and softer rear shock oils which all seemd to help but still too loose for me at times. Im running 10,10,5 in the diffs but really running out of ideas are when to go next . Any advice would be a car saver before i throw it in the bin lol

Andy
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:55 AM
  #15680  
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Originally Posted by RaffyUK
Hi all , new to the forum and just started running an MBX6R , Loving the car apart from the massive lack of rear on power traction. If the car is not pointing straight when i apply the throttle the rear breaks away. So far i have tried higher rear roll centre , softer rear roll bar ( 2.6) and softer rear shock oils which all seemd to help but still too loose for me at times. Im running 10,10,5 in the diffs but really running out of ideas are when to go next . Any advice would be a car saver before i throw it in the bin lol

Andy
Try going down in the center diff. That'll make the front tend to pull the car straight.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:00 PM
  #15681  
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Originally Posted by RaffyUK
Hi all , new to the forum and just started running an MBX6R , Loving the car apart from the massive lack of rear on power traction. If the car is not pointing straight when i apply the throttle the rear breaks away. So far i have tried higher rear roll centre , softer rear roll bar ( 2.6) and softer rear shock oils which all seemd to help but still too loose for me at times. Im running 10,10,5 in the diffs but really running out of ideas are when to go next . Any advice would be a car saver before i throw it in the bin lol

Andy
7-7-5 will be better for on power traction. outdoors im running 7-10-7 right now and had to free up the rear. also to lock in rear end, go to bottom hole on hubs, outer on camber link on hubs, bottom hole on tower for camber link. run shortest wheel base possible.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:12 PM
  #15682  
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Originally Posted by RaffyUK
Hi all , new to the forum and just started running an MBX6R , Loving the car apart from the massive lack of rear on power traction. If the car is not pointing straight when i apply the throttle the rear breaks away. So far i have tried higher rear roll centre , softer rear roll bar ( 2.6) and softer rear shock oils which all seemd to help but still too loose for me at times. Im running 10,10,5 in the diffs but really running out of ideas are when to go next . Any advice would be a car saver before i throw it in the bin lol

Andy
How much has the car ran? It needs a coupple of liters before it brakes in :-) This is quite noticabel when i ran a new car compared to an older one.

Also, i advice you to run as little antisquat as you can and also use the low hole in the rear toeblock. This the setting that makes tha car easy to drive.
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51
7-7-5 will be better for on power traction. outdoors im running 7-10-7 right now and had to free up the rear. also to lock in rear end, go to bottom hole on hubs, outer on camber link on hubs, bottom hole on tower for camber link. run shortest wheel base possible.
Thanks for the replies so far

Orginally tried 775 and the car was tough to drive alomost dangerous . Im running the mid hole on the hub with camber link , bottom hole on tower and bottom hole on the rear hub. Think i have been running long wheelbase on chassis , also running extended rear hubs
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:16 PM
  #15684  
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Originally Posted by am
How much has the car ran? It needs a coupple of liters before it brakes in :-) This is quite noticabel when i ran a new car compared to an older one.

Also, i advice you to run as little antisquat as you can and also use the low hole in the rear toeblock. This the setting that makes tha car easy to drive.
Car has run 4 meetings now i think , Running the low hole on the rear toeblock (2.75) as for anti squat is that just on the rear or front also?
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RaffyUK
Thanks for the replies so far

Orginally tried 775 and the car was tough to drive alomost dangerous . Im running the mid hole on the hub with camber link , bottom hole on tower and bottom hole on the rear hub. Think i have been running long wheelbase on chassis , also running extended rear hubs

7-7-5 worked good for me with stock R, but went to 5-7-5 and it was great indoors/tight tracks, went to 7-10-7 and its been spot on. however, im running alot of different things than stock now...

lengthen the camber link, shorten wheel base, and run stock hubs. long wheel base and extended hubs will make it looser.
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:09 PM
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Does using the lower hole on the hubs do anything other than changing the roll center?
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:20 PM
  #15687  
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Default Rear end stepping out

Originally Posted by RaffyUK
Hi all , new to the forum and just started running an MBX6R , Loving the car apart from the massive lack of rear on power traction. If the car is not pointing straight when i apply the throttle the rear breaks away. So far i have tried higher rear roll centre , softer rear roll bar ( 2.6) and softer rear shock oils which all seemd to help but still too loose for me at times. Im running 10,10,5 in the diffs but really running out of ideas are when to go next . Any advice would be a car saver before i throw it in the bin lol

Andy
Andy... you could just substitute my name in place of yours for the above post. Approx. 1 month ago that was almost exactly what I was posting as well.

I also tried the 2.6 anti-sway bar in the rear, along with a 2.4 & 2.5 in the front.
I tried 7-7-5, 7-7-3, 5-7-3, 5-7-5, white pistons, black pistons, (mug springs)f8.0, f8.25, r8.25, r8.50, r8.75, r buggy tower, r truggy tower, kyosho springs in every color, ride height every combination from 26mm to 31mm, camber links in every length and position, blah blah blah.. the list goes on.

The buggy still stepped out..

I put the identical setup (and I mean identical) that a couple of Mugen Factory Pro drivers are running here in So Cal and then I handed those same drivers my 4PK Tx... they couldn't believe it either... it still stepped out.

The good news is that it did get better, however there hasn't been a "fixall" type of remedy, at least not in my experience. Here are some of the changes that contributed to improving this problem for me.

First of all Thank You to Donnie Rodriguez (donrod) along with a few others who are not on RCTech, for the assistance, it was/is appreciated.

- switching from NiMh Rx to the lighter weight of a LiPo Rx forward mounted- (helped somewhat)
- drilling lower holes in rear truggy tower for more inclined rear shocks (ala donrod ) - (helped somewhat)
- CSI (Competition Suspension) "blue" pistons with r65wt f70wt Losi oil. - (I know that sounds extreme but it helped a little more than somewhat)
- BCE X3 Chassis (+3mm longer than standard, -2mm shorter than 6R) - (helped a good amount)
- placed washers/shims under the steering linkage ball studs at the ackerman and at the steering knuckles to eliminate the "full droop bumpsteer" - (helped a good amount)
- went to f 3k- c 5k- r 2k - (helped quite a bit)

I've attached the setup sheet below that is working with these changes above.

Good Luck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
MBX6-R setup Feb.2012 HH.pdf (324.2 KB, 214 views)
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:39 PM
  #15688  
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Originally Posted by Numburn
Does using the lower hole on the hubs do anything other than changing the roll center?
It keeps the rear end of the car lower under braking i.e. doesn't transfer as much weight to the front end. This reduces off power steering/rear rotation but it adds a little stability. Also, it limits chassis clearance at full droop which can cause the chassis to slap a little more on flat landings.
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:33 PM
  #15689  
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Originally Posted by HH
I also tried the 2.6 anti-sway bar in the rear, along with a 2.4 & 2.5 in the front.
I tried 7-7-5, 7-7-3, 5-7-3, 5-7-5, white pistons, black pistons, (mug springs)f8.0, f8.25, r8.25, r8.50, r8.75, r buggy tower, r truggy tower, kyosho springs in every color, ride height every combination from 26mm to 31mm, camber links in every length and position, blah blah blah.. the list goes on.

The buggy still stepped out..
Yeah, I don't run anything even near that and I have no "step out" tendency.
I used 86/10,75 springs for the rear, and 75/9,75 for the front, stock pistons.
6.5mm pretension front, 9mm pretension rear. F450/R400 oils.

I find that the biggest difference in traction is tyres.
Basicly there is a whole bunch of tyres that are useless, and then there are a few that are good.
With Tourex and 6Mik tyres the rear slides all over the place.
With Aka Crossbrace soft it sticks, I believe also ProLine Revolver soft was allright for me in training, and LRP Kamikaze was OK in soft.

So basicly I suggest you ditch your tyres and test a bunch of tyre set ups.
Preferably in soft / ultra soft.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:16 PM
  #15690  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Yeah, I don't run anything even near that and I have no "step out" tendency.
I used 86/10,75 springs for the rear, and 75/9,75 for the front, stock pistons.
6.5mm pretension front, 9mm pretension rear. F450/R400 oils.

I find that the biggest difference in traction is tyres.
Basicly there is a whole bunch of tyres that are useless, and then there are a few that are good.
With Tourex and 6Mik tyres the rear slides all over the place.
With Aka Crossbrace soft it sticks, I believe also ProLine Revolver soft was allright for me in training, and LRP Kamikaze was OK in soft.

So basicly I suggest you ditch your tyres and test a bunch of tyre set ups.
Preferably in soft / ultra soft.

I'm not sure if you're directing that to me or the fellow that my post was intending to assist. Either way I would assume that he has tried the preferred tires for where ever his home track is as I can assure you that I have. The only reason it is not mentioned in my post is that making sure you have the right tires (or sets of tires) is automatic in my view ya know, it's one of those things that kind of "goes without saying". At least you can always safely assume that I have tried all of the "go to" tires for a particular track before I would resort to making all of the changes listed above, or any changes at all for that matter.

Around here we run..
Proline M3 and M4 Tazers, Blockades, Snipers, Holeshots, Calibers.
AKA soft and super-soft Gridirons, Impacts, City Blocks.
and I ran all of them trying to correct the problem. It wasn't the tires.

Yeah, I don't run anything even near that and I have no "step out" tendency.
Yeah... I understand that.
Yours along with almost every other MBX6R on the planet seem to work awesome. Unfortunately, there are a few of us lames whose MBX6R step out like a muthaf*r when you get on power. And before you go stating its the driver let me just say that nearly every Mugen driver that I know at my home track.. all drove my buggy while it was "on it's road to recovery", and every single one of them (100%) had a hard time gettin' it around the track without losing the back end.
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