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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 02-10-2010, 06:27 PM
  #1186  
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So on the c plate it says 1 dot=2deg, 2 dot up=3 deg and 3 dots up= 4 deg. Am I missing something or is this all true or do I go off of the manual
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:30 PM
  #1187  
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go by the blocks
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Shane Racer
go by the blocks
Cool. Thanks again bro. Ur the man.
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Old 02-11-2010, 03:19 AM
  #1189  
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anybody else flip their shock cap screw so the nut faces in? this way i just have to remove the nut to make any changes. before you have to remove the whole mount and reinstall in new spot. also, you can use a countersunk washer inside from the front.
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:48 AM
  #1190  
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Default clutch question

Ok so i finally put a Nitro engine in my truggy and i used all AE parts but this just dont look right ( the gap between bell and flywheel) can some one verify this for me ?
This is with the SG "short" nut installed and the gap is less than the "standard" sg nut. I also noted my Robinson racing 15T bell fit much better than the AE 13 tooth.
This is on a Werks B5 engine

Idea's or tips appreciated
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips-picture-109.jpg   Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips-picture-110.jpg  
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:17 AM
  #1191  
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Originally Posted by CRCDUDE
Ok so i finally put a Nitro engine in my truggy and i used all AE parts but this just dont look right ( the gap between bell and flywheel) can some one verify this for me ?
This is with the SG "short" nut installed and the gap is less than the "standard" sg nut. I also noted my Robinson racing 15T bell fit much better than the AE 13 tooth.
This is on a Werks B5 engine

Idea's or tips appreciated
You adjust it with the shims. Is it to far towards the tank or needs to go further towards the tank. If that doesn't work u will have to get a short nut.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight
You adjust it with the shims. Is it to far towards the tank or needs to go further towards the tank. If that doesn't work u will have to get a short nut.

Please read my post more carefully...

I have the short nut on it.. And yes I have it shimmed correctly, i will also add that it does line up on the spur gear perfect.

My concern is the gap between the flywheel and clutch bell, it looks excessive to me and looks like it would allow dirt and debris to get into the clutch
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:10 AM
  #1193  
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The gap looks fine to me...I can't really see from the angle of the pic but as long as the shoes are fully covered by the clutchbell and not sticking out behind it you are fine...

If it won't align with the spur properly you may need a collet spacer to move the collet foward which will get you closer to the end of the crank:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...and-Washer-Set
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:41 PM
  #1194  
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alls good. dirt never seams to find its way in there, look a vented bells. It will be fine.
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:47 AM
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bump for the guy who thinks this thread doesnt excist.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:43 AM
  #1196  
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mine looks the same way i thought mine was wrong at first also
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Old 02-21-2010, 06:26 PM
  #1197  
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Hey all,



ran the rc8t-ce this weekend and and was really happy with how it went.

i ran it basically outta the box although i did lay the front shocks down and changed the front springs to blacks. i tried a few different tyre combo's (cross hairs all round, city/I-beam, and cities front and back) running 5,7,3 and 35wt AE fr-rr.

it handled and jumped great although i would of liked a bit more initial turn in steering with out having to rely on whipping the tail around so much but i know with a bit more testing its going to be an absolute flyer!!!

Mike
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:24 PM
  #1198  
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This normal. I thought the same thing almost 2 yrs ago. I have been running it like this the hole time


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Old 02-22-2010, 06:18 AM
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Default Shane's Setup

I ran Shane's setup for truggy and it was off the hook! Before I always had problems w/ the rear end not wanting to rotate, now she'll flick around as quick as a cat. I found that this setup rewarded me for driving hard. To take a tight corner I'd brake hard, turn, and get on the gas. I had zero understeer and it would oversteer if I got on the gas too much. I prefer that scenario though, oversteering can be corrected by slowing down. If your understeering your f'ed no matter what speed your carrying.

Now I want to concentrate on preventing tail spin as I did spin out a few times. I know that my throttle control can prevent this but I want to see if there's a setup change that I can make that'll help as well. There was a really fast guy at Motorama with the RC8T who had the rear rotate without ever over rotating and seemingly on the gas the whole time. I never found out who it was or I would've asked him his setup. So I'm running Shane's truggy setup except im in the A hole of the rear hub (not the c option) with 3 degrees negative camber. So what should I try first, decreasing my camber, rear toe, or should I look to my diffs?
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by marshon50
I ran Shane's setup for truggy and it was off the hook! Before I always had problems w/ the rear end not wanting to rotate, now she'll flick around as quick as a cat. I found that this setup rewarded me for driving hard. To take a tight corner I'd brake hard, turn, and get on the gas. I had zero understeer and it would oversteer if I got on the gas too much. I prefer that scenario though, oversteering can be corrected by slowing down. If your understeering your f'ed no matter what speed your carrying.

Now I want to concentrate on preventing tail spin as I did spin out a few times. I know that my throttle control can prevent this but I want to see if there's a setup change that I can make that'll help as well. There was a really fast guy at Motorama with the RC8T who had the rear rotate without ever over rotating and seemingly on the gas the whole time. I never found out who it was or I would've asked him his setup. So I'm running Shane's truggy setup except im in the A hole of the rear hub (not the c option) with 3 degrees negative camber. So what should I try first, decreasing my camber, rear toe, or should I look to my diffs?
Try less rear camber first and then move the rear shocks in on the tower.
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