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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 09-06-2013, 09:13 PM
  #4396  
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Originally Posted by rifraf
Go my new rc8t ready and started break in today..had a problem at 1/4-1/2 tank of fuel.it would start bogging lean --not enough fuel? I could top the tank off at this point and it run fine,,bad fuel tank?mabe air leak in tank? give me your thoughts.I am sure someone has had this problem..

Thanks,Tommy
RC8T/RC8 Tanks are notorious (with me at least) for leaks/inconsistent fuel supply making tuning your motor a nightmare. You can check all your lines for leaks, submerge your tank under water and check it by blowing into the exhaust line and it will reveal any leaks too. If it still shows no leaks it could be the fuel pick up line inside the tank still, no way of really fixing it if it is leaking there, only solution would be contacting Team Associated and they might send you a replacement tank. Then you get the new tank and it might have the same issue.

I just went ahead and put HB tanks on my RC8.2 and my RC8T. They have a clunk pickup in the tank and I will tell you, no air bubbles anymore in my fuel line. Remarkably, my tune works from full tank all the way through to the bottom. The pictures are from the tank mod on my buggy, but it is the same for the truggy. Hope it helps. Here is a link to the write up I did for the HB fuel tank mod:

Hoosier D8T fuel tank mod
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:36 PM
  #4397  
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier
RC8T/RC8 Tanks are notorious (with me at least) for leaks/inconsistent fuel supply making tuning your motor a nightmare. You can check all your lines for leaks, submerge your tank under water and check it by blowing into the exhaust line and it will reveal any leaks too. If it still shows no leaks it could be the fuel pick up line inside the tank still, no way of really fixing it if it is leaking there, only solution would be contacting Team Associated and they might send you a replacement tank. Then you get the new tank and it might have the same issue.

I just went ahead and put HB tanks on my RC8.2 and my RC8T. They have a clunk pickup in the tank and I will tell you, no air bubbles anymore in my fuel line. Remarkably, my tune works from full tank all the way through to the bottom. The pictures are from the tank mod on my buggy, but it is the same for the truggy. Hope it helps. Here is a link to the write up I did for the HB fuel tank mod:

Hoosier D8T fuel tank mod
Thanks Bro.. you hit the nail on the head..this is the info. I am looking for..

Thanks again.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:39 PM
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Nice mod ABN. Wonder why this problem has not been addressed by AE. It's not like they won't sell them out as soon as they hit the market. It's little things like this that makes me go crazy as a consumer. I understand things brake and wear out, but as a consumer, I would like there to be no defects, and if there are defects, I hope that company can rectify it soon.
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by portyansky
Nice mod ABN. Wonder why this problem has not been addressed by AE. It's not like they won't sell them out as soon as they hit the market. It's little things like this that makes me go crazy as a consumer. I understand things brake and wear out, but as a consumer, I would like there to be no defects, and if there are defects, I hope that company can rectify it soon.
Porty,

I addressed it in the RC8.2 thread!!! I went with the HB tanks over the Cadillac Kcar $$$ tanks though. I am still sponsored by Visa/Mastercard

Look closely at Maifields buggy.....He's using a Kyosho MP9 fuel tank! or he's managed to fit the cap off the MP9 onto his Associated tank!



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Old 09-07-2013, 12:06 AM
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I've still never had the issues with the tanks - truggy, buggy, or SC8.... Things might get a little bit lean at the very end, but I've never had an issue with them.
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by taztal3
what size of shim behind sun gears ? only rear ? what about front one shim behind a sun gears ??
The gears I'm referring to as sun gears are the gears on the diff output shaft/cups. I put an extra shim under one of the sun gears to tighten the mesh between all of the gears in the diff cup. If I put an extra shim under the other sun gear the mesh was too tight.
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by brendon.matt
Has anybody else had dramas with the left side arms? Font and back new out of packet they feel like they are flogged out.... I have to shimm them almost tight and by the end of the race day they are all loose again. Right now I have replaced the diff bulkheads hinge pins the pills and the arms and the left arms still feel flogged
Out.
anyone?
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:46 PM
  #4403  
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what do you mean by flogged?
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:33 AM
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i mean where the hinge pins go through the arms are elongated holes so the arms move back and forth. at the wheel it can move as much as 5-6mm back and forth but where the A/B plates meet the arm there is no room for clips/shims
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier
RC8T/RC8 Tanks are notorious (with me at least) for leaks/inconsistent fuel supply making tuning your motor a nightmare. You can check all your lines for leaks, submerge your tank under water and check it by blowing into the exhaust line and it will reveal any leaks too. If it still shows no leaks it could be the fuel pick up line inside the tank still, no way of really fixing it if it is leaking there, only solution would be contacting Team Associated and they might send you a replacement tank. Then you get the new tank and it might have the same issue.

I just went ahead and put HB tanks on my RC8.2 and my RC8T. They have a clunk pickup in the tank and I will tell you, no air bubbles anymore in my fuel line. Remarkably, my tune works from full tank all the way through to the bottom. The pictures are from the tank mod on my buggy, but it is the same for the truggy. Hope it helps. Here is a link to the write up I did for the HB fuel tank mod:

Hoosier D8T fuel tank mod
I had issues with tanks in the original RC8 and the grey smoke colored tanks but I have not had a issue's with the current design at all. But again I pressure test my tanks as a normal routine of maintenance. But I do like the diffrent designs of other manu tanks with the spill/splash gaurds to keep fuel off the breaks and that might be the biggest reason why Ryan uses that tank. At the ROAR Nats this year both Ryans were using stock tanks.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by brendon.matt
i mean where the hinge pins go through the arms are elongated holes so the arms move back and forth. at the wheel it can move as much as 5-6mm back and forth but where the A/B plates meet the arm there is no room for clips/shims
5-6mm is a lil more than a 1/4inch, excessive I agree. I want to make sure what movement you speak of to verify.
If you are saying the hole in the a-arm is "stretched out" and the arm is moving, if viewed from the top, like toe in/toe out movement and everything else is stationary not allowing/causing movement I would say it is a bad set of a-arms. I have to usually have to ream out and clean irregularities/imperfections to make the a-arm hole not bind on the hinge pin. I pretty much go by this video. Get some new a-arms.




Originally Posted by TXRC8racer
I had issues with tanks in the original RC8 and the grey smoke colored tanks but I have not had a issue's with the current design at all. But again I pressure test my tanks as a normal routine of maintenance. But I do like the diffrent designs of other manu tanks with the spill/splash gaurds to keep fuel off the breaks and that might be the biggest reason why Ryan uses that tank. At the ROAR Nats this year both Ryans were using stock tanks.
Both tanks have splash guards. When he pits they refuel him with a fuel gun, way less chance of splashing brakes.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier
Both tanks have splash guards. When he pits they refuel him with a fuel gun, way less chance of splashing brakes.
They do.. but the Kyosho tank has a larger profile gaurd to help prevent any excess fuel. And even with fuel guns you still get fuel spillage. Did you attend the ROAR Nats? Everyone on the team was still using the factory tanks and thats my point there is not an issue with the tanks like there use to be.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TXRC8racer
They do.. but the Kyosho tank has a larger profile gaurd to help prevent any excess fuel. And even with fuel guns you still get fuel spillage. Did you attend the ROAR Nats? Everyone on the team was still using the factory tanks and thats my point there is not an issue with the tanks like there use to be.
I really want to believe you. I bought 5 tanks, like $20 a pop. They made airbubbles form in my fuel line. RC8.2 & RC8TCE. So I invested in the initial kit that came with one tank, and bought 5 each additional tanks for each car (I either have the worst luck or these tanks just failed QA/QC.) Maybe a bad batch. I wish AE would produce the improved tank and change the part number. That way you would know you're not getting a "old" tank that has been sitting on the LHS shelf. I have a stockpile/grave yard of these tanks. I checked EVERY possible thing. They still leaked I am guessing between the pick-up inside the tank to the outlet connector on the tank. I said to myself, enough is enough. I just want my motor to get fuel and hold a tune. That seemed impossible with the AE tank.

Can you tell me what they improved or fixed on the tank? I'm not trying to argue with you, I hope you don't get that impression. I appreciate your advice. Just looking for the cure/solution.

-Hoosier
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:23 PM
  #4409  
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Thanks to ABN..no more fuel/tune troubles..D8T tank in my AE works flawless...
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rifraf
Thanks to ABN..no more fuel/tune troubles..D8T tank in my AE works flawless...
Rif,
might wanna take a look at this:

Tessman talks about the clunk maintenance http://www.tytessman.com/racing/tips...nk-failure.php

I tightened the nut up good on the fuel out nipple, making sure the clunk is setting good and it touches the bottom of the tank when upright, and when I invert the tank I made sure it moves correctly to operate as it was designed if you are upside down waiting on a Marshall.

Also might wanna have this in the "crash kit" just in case.
Hot Bodies Fuel Tank Clunk Set
[HBS67523]
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Tank-Clunk-Set
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