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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 09-05-2013, 05:24 PM
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It's been a good 8 years running Mugen(guess I should change my avy). I picked up a AE 7/10/3 40/35 a good start? Run medium grip bumpy top soil. Oh yea going electric first to finish off the year.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by portyansky
It's been a good 8 years running Mugen(guess I should change my avy). I picked up a AE 7/10/3 40/35 a good start? Run medium grip bumpy top soil. Oh yea going electric first to finish off the year.
The truck should feel great with those oils. I like to go even thicker in the shocks some times. If you are building a new kit I would advise not to put two shims under each sun gear in the diffs like the manual suggests. Put one shim under each, assemble it dry and see how it feels. Then put the other two shims and see how it feels. If you can feel extra resistance after adding the shims take them out. You will lose a lot of corner speed with the front diff shimmed too tight.

There are some situations where the rear end gets a bit squirrely on turn in with 3 in the rear and in those cases I like to bump it up to 5. I find the 7 works great up front when the diffs are shimmed so there is no resistance from the shims. When I was running the four shims up front like the manual suggested, my truck pushed unless I took the oil down to 5 in front.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jhrbacek
The truck should feel great with those oils. I like to go even thicker in the shocks some times. If you are building a new kit I would advise not to put two shims under each sun gear in the diffs like the manual suggests. Put one shim under each, assemble it dry and see how it feels. Then put the other two shims and see how it feels. If you can feel extra resistance after adding the shims take them out. You will lose a lot of corner speed with the front diff shimmed too tight.

There are some situations where the rear end gets a bit squirrely on turn in with 3 in the rear and in those cases I like to bump it up to 5. I find the 7 works great up front when the diffs are shimmed so there is no resistance from the shims. When I was running the four shims up front like the manual suggested, my truck pushed unless I took the oil down to 5 in front.
It's. 4 or 5 race day old CE. I'm taking the diffs out tomorrow. He has something crazy like 10/7/7 (or maybe he said 10/5/7 yes, f/c/r) and then he wonders why it doesn't steer....
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by portyansky
It's. 4 or 5 race day old CE. I'm taking the diffs out tomorrow. He has something crazy like 10/7/7 (or maybe he said 10/5/7 yes, f/c/r) and then he wonders why it doesn't steer....
The truck turns on a dime. If he had problems with lack of steering, and the servo saver wasn't loose, then I am 95% sure he has two shims under each sun gear. It was unbelievable how much better my truck handled when I took them out. I really have no idea why AE suggests to use all four.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jhrbacek
The truck turns on a dime. If he had problems with lack of steering, and the servo saver wasn't loose, then I am 95% sure he has two shims under each sun gear. It was unbelievable how much better my truck handled when I took them out. I really have no idea why AE suggests to use all four.
I had to add 1 extra shim to my rear diff after stripping it twice within 1 gallon of fuel. Since adding the extra shim I've had no problems out of my rear diff. I guess maybe you could get away with a loosely shimmed diff in the front, but I wouldn't recommend it in the rear.
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Micah78
I had to add 1 extra shim to my rear diff after stripping it twice within 1 gallon of fuel. Since adding the extra shim I've had no problems out of my rear diff. I guess maybe you could get away with a loosely shimmed diff in the front, but I wouldn't recommend it in the rear.
He is referring to the shims inside the diff cups.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:25 AM
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Porty!
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by portyansky
He is referring to the shims inside the diff cups.
I'm referring to the shims inside the diff cup as well. I stripped the "spider" gears inside the diff cup two times in a row. I added an extra shim behind one of the sun gears and haven't had a problem since.
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier
Porty!

What up ABN. Loooooooong time no "see"
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:11 PM
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what size of shim behind sun gears ? only rear ? what about front one shim behind a sun gears ??
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:42 PM
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Go my new rc8t ready and started break in today..had a problem at 1/4-1/2 tank of fuel.it would start bogging lean --not enough fuel? I could top the tank off at this point and it run fine,,bad fuel tank?mabe air leak in tank? give me your thoughts.I am sure someone has had this problem..

Thanks,Tommy
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rifraf
Go my new rc8t ready and started break in today..had a problem at 1/4-1/2 tank of fuel.it would start bogging lean --not enough fuel? I could top the tank off at this point and it run fine,,bad fuel tank?mabe air leak in tank? give me your thoughts.I am sure someone has had this problem..

Thanks,Tommy
might be the tank but check the fuel lines , I ran glow for allot a years i really dont miss it at all , i`m now running my truggy electric so much cleaner and dependable
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:14 PM
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Electric - yuck...
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mavdriver
might be the tank but check the fuel lines , I ran glow for allot a years i really dont miss it at all , i`m now running my truggy electric so much cleaner and dependable
I was racing nitro until 8yrs ago,gettin back into it now..I have raced nitro for about 20yrs..the first thing I did was replace to NEW kit fuel line..I was just wondering if anyone has had trouble in the past with a bad fuel tank from Associated...
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:03 PM
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If you see air bubbles in your fuel line going into the engine then most likely your tank is not good. Best way to test the tank is to empty it, place a long fuel tube on it, submerge it in water blow into the line while plugging the other end with your finger, if you see air bubbles then your tank is pooched.
I have done this method for many questionable tanks, some passed the test (which meant it was something else) and a few needed replacing.
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