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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 08-27-2013, 01:35 PM
  #4366  
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Originally Posted by Micah78
I guess I'm showing my ignorance here but, how do I back of the droop? I'm not sure what droop is or how it could cause the rear driveshafts to snap like twigs at the diff output cup. I'm not saying your wrong, I just don't know what droop is or how it correlates with the axles snapping.
Your a-arms have a droop screw that when loosened and tightened touches the ear on the chassis. Droop is the adjustment of how far down the a arm goes until the screw stops downward travel of the a arm when the droop screw contacts the chassis ear.

The head of the droop screw is what touches the chassis ear. A 2mm driver fits into the other side of the droop screw from the top side of the a arm.

By limiting the down travel the dogbone will stay more in the diff outdrive and reduce the chances of damaging the drive shaft/dogbone. With full droop, you can see the cross pin on the dogbone is barely in the outdrive. On a hard crash flex occurs and if it is close to coming out it will pop out or break.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:38 PM
  #4367  
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Ok cool, Thnx for the explanation Hoosier. I will have to check my droopstop screws before I run the truck again.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Micah78
Ok cool, Thnx for the explanation Hoosier. I will have to check my droopstop screws before I run the truck again.
No prob brother. Look, if you wanna know how to dial in your trucks suspension and know what all the adjustments do. One guide I always refer to is the Hudy Truggy guide. I'm on my phone or I'd link you. Just do a Google search for Hudy/truggy/guide/pdf . The explanations are general and apply to suspension inputs of all rc's. Also, if you have an android phone, team associated has " RC CHEAT SHEET" app. Very enlightening.

Last edited by ABN Hoosier; 08-27-2013 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:03 AM
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:35 PM
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well i can honestly say im done with Associated fuel tanks....... 3 race meets in 3 weeks and 3 new tanks. all have cracked internally and started leaking making tuning impossible.

Just for Future reference the MBX6T tanks fit, but if you need to mod if you want to straighten it.
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:56 PM
  #4371  
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Originally Posted by brendon.matt
well i can honestly say im done with Associated fuel tanks....... 3 race meets in 3 weeks and 3 new tanks. all have cracked internally and started leaking making tuning impossible.

Just for Future reference the MBX6T tanks fit, but if you need to mod if you want to straighten it.
Do they run e truggies at your track ? i went to an e conversion and never look back is cleaner and imho is faster then nitro when im done running for the day just blow it out with the air conpressor and my truggy is clean , just a thought .
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:26 PM
  #4372  
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I am posting this on three threads: RC8T, RC8.2E and the RC8.2 nitro. I am trying to find out about the suspension geometry a bit more. I and am contemplating doing the upper a-arm/camber link MOD, but I still would like to know about the standard "pill" way. I have no clue what 1dot, 2dot or 3dot does in the front tower/top plate for suspension influence. NO CLUE cant find any info anywhere.





The Roll Center is more adjustable in this MOD^ I believe.

But the old way with the inserts on the tower and top plate can someone tell me where I can find specifics like AVID did the chart for the inserts for the C&D plates? The combinations for the upper hinge pins with the 1dot/2dot/3dot are quite extensive and Im just wondering (not really, but I wanna know) why AE didnt include much in the manual. This is ALL they offer in the "Tips" section of the manual:VAGUE!!!

"Front Upper Pivot Insert:The standard setup is to use 2-dot up in the tower and 1-dot in the top plate. It is recommended to maintain a 1 dot gap (1mm per dot) front to rear when using 2-dot up in the A-Plate. Reducing the A-Plate insert to 1-dot allows the use of same dot number insert in both tower and top plate. Going up to 3-dot up in the tower will give more turn in, but less steering on power/exit. Going down (1-dot, 2-dot down) will reduce turn in, but give more steering on exit."

^^^ I read that over and over and was confused and had to break it down like this:

The standard setup is to use 2-dot up in the tower and 1-dot in the top plate.
It is recommended to maintain a 1 dot gap (1mm per dot) between front to rear (of the upper pivot inserts) when using 2-dot up in the A-Plate (9degrees of KICKUP).
Reducing the A-Plate insert to 1-dot, (8degrees of KICKUP) allows the use of same dot number insert in both tower and top plate.
Going up to 3-dot up in the tower (RAISING the hinge pin in front/lowering ROLL CENTER) will give more turn in, but less steering on power/exit.
Going down (1-dot, 2-dot down) (LOWERING the hinge pin in front/raising ROLL CENTER) will reduce turn in, but give more steering on exit.
ADJUSTING FRONT ROLL CENTER: Front roll center is typically adjusted by changing where the inner end of the front upper camber link attaches to the front shock tower. The upper hinge pin angle is changed UP/DOWN using the 1mm increment:

Now I was wanting to know if ANYONE can do the service (Link me or SOMETHING because I googled it and cant find nuthin) of the "Front Upper Pivot Insert" aka front upper hinge pin pills with all these possibilities:

FRONT SHOCK TOWER/TOP PLATE
up/up
1DOT 1DOT
1DOT 2DOTup
1DOT 3DOTup
2DOTup 1DOT
2DOTup 2DOTup
2DOTup 3DOTup
3DOTup 1DOTup
3DOTup 2DOTup
3DOTup 3DOTup

up/down
1DOT 1DOT
1DOT 2DOTdown
1DOT 3DOTdown
2DOTup 1DOT (standard setting)
2DOTup 2DOTdown
2DOTup 3DOTdown
3DOTup 1DOT
3DOTup 2DOTdown
3DOTup 3DOTdown

down/down
1DOT 1DOT
1DOT 2DOTdown
1DOT 3DOTdown
2DOTdown 1DOT
2DOTdown 2DOTdown
2DOTdown 3DOTdown
3DOTdown 1DOT
3DOTdown 2DOTdown
3DOTdown 3DOTdown

down/up
1DOT 1DOT
1DOT 2DOTup
1DOT 3DOTup
2DOTdown 1DOT
2DOTdown 2DOTup
2DOTdown 3DOTup
3DOTdown 1DOT
3DOTdown 2DOTup
3DOTdown 3DOTup
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Old 09-01-2013, 08:55 PM
  #4373  
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I've had an RC8, two RC8B's, an RC8.2, two RC8T's, and an SC8, and I've never had a tank issue.

Electric sucks.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:16 AM
  #4374  
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Do people run the AE alu chassis braces? I had the front center CVD pop off for the second time yesterday during a qualifier(had been threadlocked plenty..) Was wondering if it was maybe from too much chassis flex....
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage
Do people run the AE alu chassis braces? I had the front center CVD pop off for the second time yesterday during a qualifier(had been threadlocked plenty..) Was wondering if it was maybe from too much chassis flex....
I run with the KHZ aluminum ones only since they were included with the "experienced" truggy I purchased second hand. Heck, there were a whole slew of hop up parts that came with the package - and you know "you can't unbundle the package..." lol

It might be worth trying. Can you flex the chassis by hand? How much air are you subjecting the truggy to? Do the lands look like they bottom out on suspension? I take it you are landing down on the front a lot...
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:39 AM
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There was a jump at the track which they had worked on a little bit.. It was sending the rear up really bad, so yes, causing nose-plants.. I asked the guy who later ended up winning the buggy race what to do for set-up, and he said he was having the same problem - and to just avoid that side of the jump.. So once I started doing that it was better.. But still, if it wouldn't sacrifice too much of anything else, it might be worth getting an alu brace I guess.. A popped off front shaft is a race-ender...
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:24 AM
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I have never seen the aluminum braces in a race truggy though I tried them and found that it stiffens the chassis to much. But I never broke anything on that truggy it's bullit proof.
Try the pivet braces an in the middle brace
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:38 AM
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Anybody run a stock Mugen clutch in their RC8T? I picked up a couple recently, but it doesn't really want to fit(mounted to an Alpha .23)... Sits way too far back..
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by carpet Carlos
I have never seen the aluminum braces in a race truggy though I tried them and found that it stiffens the chassis to much. But I never broke anything on that truggy it's bullit proof.
Try the pivet braces an in the middle brace
I would have to agree that the truggy is bullet proof some what however i actually did bend my frame , when off this big table top , not realizing the rear brace was broke , land it on the rear tires but was really high , sure enough the chassis bent , lucky for me my nice body survive , it look ugly when i went to the crash site should have taken pics , so in my case i did install the alumunum braces on the new chassis , that i had to replace but i`m very happy how the truggy runs , it may be stiffer , but i havent notice any differrence it handles great that way it is now , and fact i like it better only issue , i came across last weekend i broke my left rear dog bone , all i can think off , is just worn , i drive this truggy pretty hard , the track that i run is outside and pretty big and loose ,when dry but nice and sticky when watterd , we run on the 1/5 scale track , is actually just right for the 1/8 scale guys , long straight away 200 feet aprox , then a left turn about 100 aprox then a u turn going into a big table top , and from there on you are weeving in an out of turns , until you get back on the straight away , really like this track , driving this truggy has really been a pleasure and will keep having fun with it , if any one is interested we are in SO CAL is the Glen Helen track in San Bernardino , 1/8 scale , 1/5 scale run on the same track ,also they have 1/10 scale track , crawler , and oval , just a shameles plug for our good friend Larry that runs the track there .
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:26 AM
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Has anybody else had dramas with the left side arms? Font and back new out of packet they feel like they are flogged out.... I have to shimm them almost tight and by the end of the race day they are all loose again. Right now I have replaced the diff bulkheads hinge pins the pills and the arms and the left arms still feel flogged
Out.
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