t4ftracer

iTrader: (73)

Use the original rc8t cf tower. You will have to drill the 4 holes in the new location for your body mounts. Simply use the aluminum tower as a jig to line up the position.
The bracket JC made has long since been discontinued, and there is no "new" style cf tower. The team is simply using the original tower for lighter weight.

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

that's what I suspected. Thanks for your help.

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

I am rebuilding my truggy and I am having a hell of a time replacing the large bearings in the rear hub carriers. They are the aluminum ones. Anyone have a good tip of trick to get these out of the housing?

Thanks!

tc5 man

Try a heat gun on the alum hub and bearing and it should come out easier . I run the plastic rear hubs one thing ive noticed when you take axle out that the plastic bearing sheid gets in the way of getting bearing off the axle !

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

Awesome!!! your advice worked!

Bugman

iTrader: (3)

Those c hubs are definetley interesting wonder if their AE prototypes or aftermarket looks like a better system then the current one.

davidfast

iTrader: (24)

They are supposedly going to be available for purchase soon from AE

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Im interested to see if they got rid of the caster pill inserts. If not at least make it a little easier to see which are which... or color code them... something. lol

tc5 man

To use the RC8T rtr steering rack thats in the pic do you have to use them ball ends on the steering knuckles or can you just use the stock ball ends that are on the knuckles ?

Oh yea i looked at them front Carriers and the front knuckles in the pic what benefit would they make compared to the stock ones ?

DaveW: Your right on about that one i hate reading them little inserts !

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

I need to experiment with that rack some more. The angle of the steering rods doesnt make sense to me... obviously its working though(?). Ill keep my opinion to myself until after i get an opportunity to thoroughly try it out...

Odds are the aluminum carriers would flex less than the plastic ones... and caster would change less under load. Either that, or the arm would end up flexing (twisting) some ... or if they use the plastic caster pills they will wear considerably faster where the pin goes through them.

davidfast

iTrader: (24)

They are color coded now....

You guys reading the number on the pills are not doing yourselves any favors those numbers mean nothing. It's the angle of the pill. Each one is angled.

It's explained from another post I finally found:

14 degree spacers:

- The blue spacer will have the hole ABOVE the middle of the spacer when the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
- The red spacer will have the hole BELOW the middle of the spacer then the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block

16 degree spacers:

- The blue spacer will have the hole AT the middle of the spacer when the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
- The red spacer will have the hole AT the middle of the spacer then the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block

18 degree spacers:

- The blue spacer will have the hole BELOW the middle of the spacer when the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
- The red spacer will have the hole ABOVE the middle of the spacer then the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

I know the Nats setup sheets aren't posted for either of the Ryan's yet on the AE site. The sheet for Gunnar Rieck is up however for the 8.2. He ran the swing rack in the center hole. Which to me seems like the same as running the centerhole (only hole) on the bell crank rack. Not exactly sure. But, from the pics of the RM 8.2 in the pits it shows the swing rack on the forward hole. I am sure it is useful maybe for the 8T as well. The track at the Nats looks alot like the track I will be running. I know set-ups are for track conditions, drivers driving style, and a zillion other considerations. Just wish there was a better explanation of some of their testing and help the "noobs" LOL But, I am thinking the old cliché of "if you want it done right, do it yourself" is probably the answer.

davidfast

iTrader: (24)

Not true on the Swing vs Bellcrank. Bellcrank is the most aggressive steering setting.

Swing gets more aggressive from rear(least aggressive) to front(more aggressive) with the front not being as aggressive as using a bellcrank. At same time makes for more stable steering as well.

This video should help you understand more : www.youtube.com/watch?v=5spUjQM_ykc

tc5 man

Oh ok would i still need them ball ends on the front knuckles for the swing rack though on the pic so i can use it ? Oh yea ive noticed the caster angle does change after a run but i dont notice it really on the track . What if you boil them upper arms though would that help ?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Im aware of the color and numerical differences, but it would be much easier if the 14's, 16's, and 18's were color coordinated, and CLEARLY marked FRONT (F) and REAR (R), and with keyed orientation in the caster block. As it stands now... not everyone can easily identify the proper orientation (as the pill fits either way in the caster block).

Each pill has a 4 digit number... the first two indicate caster angle (14, 16, or 18). The last two digits... i have no idea what they refer to. In the pills i have, the last two digits are 01 or 02... regardless of color (FRONT or REAR orientation) or caster angle (hole orientation, as you describe). I just want something a little bit easier for my old eyes to spy...