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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 05-02-2012, 09:11 PM
  #3631  
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Truck doesn't really need a whole lot out of the box.

The billet steering knuckles and rear hub seem to be a pretty popular upgrade. The Rear hub for sure as they give you the 3rd camber link position that most seem to use.

On mine, I went back to the carbon shock towers (they're a little lighter)

Used the HD shock shafts on the rear from the buggy

Billet knuckles and rear hubs.

That's about it. Other than that is mostly stock as far as suspension goes. I do have the BCE chassis and added in a D8T tank for the clunk in it.

Oh I also went back to the FT ackerman plate from the CE plate.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:56 AM
  #3632  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Truck doesn't really need a whole lot out of the box.

The billet steering knuckles and rear hub seem to be a pretty popular upgrade. The Rear hub for sure as they give you the 3rd camber link position that most seem to use.

On mine, I went back to the carbon shock towers (they're a little lighter)

Used the HD shock shafts on the rear from the buggy

Billet knuckles and rear hubs.

That's about it. Other than that is mostly stock as far as suspension goes. I do have the BCE chassis and added in a D8T tank for the clunk in it.

Oh I also went back to the FT ackerman plate from the CE plate.

do you need to mod something to fit D8T fuel tank???
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:42 AM
  #3633  
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Yeah a little,

There were some pics in this thread somewhere about it. You either need to drill one new tank mount hole or fab up something to go from the tank to the stock mount. I just drilled a new hole for the front tank mount and it's bee working just fine
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE80
do you need to mod something to fit D8T fuel tank???
The rear mount is fine. For the front, you can drill the chassis, however, I find this to work well. Drill out a servo horn to go over the mount, and then bolt the other end to the front tank mount. This works great without the need to drill your chassis.

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Old 05-03-2012, 11:51 PM
  #3635  
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Are the alum. chassis braces worth upgrading to from the stock plastic ones? Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JAFO913
Are the alum. chassis braces worth upgrading to from the stock plastic ones? Thanks.
Plastic flexes. Aluminum bends.

Personally, I would never use the aluminum chassis braces.
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Yeah a little,

There were some pics in this thread somewhere about it. You either need to drill one new tank mount hole or fab up something to go from the tank to the stock mount. I just drilled a new hole for the front tank mount and it's bee working just fine
Thank you sir!
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:39 AM
  #3638  
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Originally Posted by JAFO913
Are the alum. chassis braces worth upgrading to from the stock plastic ones? Thanks.
I have been Running king heads aluminum braces for over three years now with no problems. And I have seen several pros running aluminum front brace and plastic rear. Most of the time pro guys run a piece of carbon fiber along the side of rear plastic brace. If you go aluminum, go with the king heads they are better than the ae stuff.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:40 AM
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Well the plastic chassis braces are good for when the track is dry and loomy but when the track is moist and lots of grip it flexes to much so the alum braces are better for sure ! The downside using the Alum braces is it adds weight .

But if you have a aftermarket chassis thats more flexible Alum braces would be better to use.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:52 AM
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The chassis braces to me are more of a tuning option on the stock chassis,

Any weight difference between them wouldn't be enough to notice for most.

On my BCE chassis, I use the alum. braces F&R as I think the BCE has a little bit more chassis flex than the stock and for me the alum. braces give me the feel I want.

Also went to a much better setup for me that's a bit more aggressive, but fits me much better than the FT setup.

Most of the FT setup is used as far as shock springs, mount locations, camber link locations.

The big changes I went with are:
Diffs: 10-10-3
Shock pistons: 1.3 6 hole
Shock oil:
45 front
50 rear

Zero front toe
-1 front camber
2.5 rear toe
-2 rear camber

On the bench the shock setup feels like its pretty stiff, but on the track it's primo.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:50 PM
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I just got the rear aluminum ae hubs second hand and there seems to be alot of movement in them with the stock spacer and bushings in both the arm and the camber arm. does anyone have the part numbers for the spacers (bushings that are a perfect fit with the aluminum hubs? Thanks in advance guys
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by g-one
I just got the rear aluminum ae hubs second hand and there seems to be alot of movement in them with the stock spacer and bushings in both the arm and the camber arm. does anyone have the part numbers for the spacers (bushings that are a perfect fit with the aluminum hubs? Thanks in advance guys
I can't find any part # for the bits that come with the hub carriers

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Old 05-19-2012, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by g-one
I just got the rear aluminum ae hubs second hand and there seems to be alot of movement in them with the stock spacer and bushings in both the arm and the camber arm. does anyone have the part numbers for the spacers (bushings that are a perfect fit with the aluminum hubs? Thanks in advance guys

Shoot man i run the plastic rear hubs on my RC8T even with new plastic spacers it still has movement like your saying i wouldnt worry about it to much. If anything it prevents from the supension binding. The only downside is it can make the rear plastic camber ends flex to much and cause a bind .

Thats why i boiled my rear camber ends works to with just a little flex left.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:37 PM
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I believe he is talking about the silver cone washers that go on either side of
the camber link.

AE Part #ASC89230
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Old 05-20-2012, 02:35 AM
  #3645  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Also went to a much better setup for me that's a bit more aggressive, but fits me much better than the FT setup.

Most of the FT setup is used as far as shock springs, mount locations, camber link locations.

The big changes I went with are:
Diffs: 10-10-3
Shock pistons: 1.3 6 hole
Shock oil:
45 front
50 rear

Zero front toe
-1 front camber
2.5 rear toe
-2 rear camber

On the bench the shock setup feels like its pretty stiff, but on the track it's primo.
10-10-3 In the diffs. I am running 773 and found it pretty well balanced Wondering how it would compair to 10-10-3. I have a hold it on and hope driving style ,I tried driving smoother to get better lap times and longer run times and it got to the point where i was not enjoying the truggy for what it is and how it handles so I went back to how I normally drive and to me it handles better the harder you push.
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