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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 03-04-2012, 06:52 PM
  #3586  
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I really think the RC8TCE is perfect when run stock. I recommend everyone try it there first then change it from there if you need too. Ive run mine stock since it was released 2 seasons ago and Im building a new one right now and its going to be 7k,7k,7k too.

In the past when I have changed the rear diff the higher the number the more traction I feel in the rear when accelerating out of the corner. The lower the number the better the low speed steering entering the corner but looser out. I prefer the heavier because I can accelerate sooner coming out and when the rear does break traction it usually feels easier to control.

I also took note that Maifield is still running the risers on his truggy. I think this means there is almost no chance there will be a new version of the truggy coming this year. Thats fine with me since I am building a new one from parts.

Now the question. Has anyone used the new JConcepts Subcultures in green compound? I have been an AKA fan for the past couple years but those JConcepts tires look pretty interesting but I dont wanna spend the money for nothing. Tires cost too much to gamble.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:04 AM
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I am currently running the JConcept Crosshairs after trying them for something different after running the AKA I Beams and City Blocks and the VP Pro Cut offs. I have ordered a couple more sets of the cross hairs and subcultures as I ma that impressed by them. The wear rate is awsome and they provide better drive for me than the other tyres I have used.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:49 AM
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hey all. cool thread. i think I'm 3/4 the way through...

anyway... new RC8TCE owner here. i'm making good progress through the build but i had a few questions i hoped someone could help me with before get too much further.

2 on the Diffs:
A) I've followed the instructions and filled with the 7k diff fluid. After putting in the 4 3x14mm screws and snugly fastening them I can not hand crank them at all. Is this expected?

B) After I completed the front suspension build I can turn the differential pretty easily by turning the wheel hex or the CVA bone. My question is how smooth should the differential feel? In other words it turns pretty smooth and doesn't bind at all, but i can absolutely feel the gears turning. It's much smoother when its not installed in the suspension but i don't have a frame of reference to tell whether its correct or whether something is too tight. i hope that makes sense... I'm going to build the rear tonight and I don't want to have to rip them both apart if I've done something wrong


Finally, what parts/screws should i get to keep in my race kit. What breaks often or what needs replacing? I want to order some stuff today for my first track day this weekend.

thanks!
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mstrfahrenheit
hey all. cool thread. i think I'm 3/4 the way through...

anyway... new RC8TCE owner here. i'm making good progress through the build but i had a few questions i hoped someone could help me with before get too much further.

2 on the Diffs:
A) I've followed the instructions and filled with the 7k diff fluid. After putting in the 4 3x14mm screws and snugly fastening them I can not hand crank them at all. Is this expected?

B) After I completed the front suspension build I can turn the differential pretty easily by turning the wheel hex or the CVA bone. My question is how smooth should the differential feel? In other words it turns pretty smooth and doesn't bind at all, but i can absolutely feel the gears turning. It's much smoother when its not installed in the suspension but i don't have a frame of reference to tell whether its correct or whether something is too tight. i hope that makes sense... I'm going to build the rear tonight and I don't want to have to rip them both apart if I've done something wrong


Finally, what parts/screws should i get to keep in my race kit. What breaks often or what needs replacing? I want to order some stuff today for my first track day this weekend.

thanks!
A), I think that you might have something not right in the diff. Off a tooth on a gear, cross pins not seated right, shims not right. It's something for sure. The diff should feel more or less like your B when new. I'd take the diff apart and recheck it.

B) When new the diff gears can feel a tight and you might even gear the diff gears working if you hold up the diff to your ear. If you have built the diff correctly, it's ok. Once you put a couple of runs on the diff, it'll smooth out even more and you won't feel the gears working like referenced in your part B.

Extra screws and parts:

For the most part the Truggy is solid and doesn't really break. It does get a little sloppy as parts ware, but will usually keep the slop for quite a while.

Hinge pins (inner and outer)- They can bend in a crash and you maynot even know it because nothing broke.
Rear hubs- Plastic ones do brake from time to time, but I think most run the option Alum. ones.
Front CVA bones- These seem to bend a little easier than they should IMO. I've bent a few either because my tire was a little out of balance ot something.

Hardware- For the most part the screws and nuts stay put.
The 2mm headed countersunk screws do strip sometimes. Extras of those are good.
M3 lock nuts- The little black lock nuts that are just about everywhere on the truck. Some extras of these are good to have. I've lost a few out of the rear wing mount when changing wings in a hurry.
Front steering knuckle screws and bushings- These are sold together and are different sizes top and bottom. They have been known to fall out. I haven't had that issue, but have seem many that did. A couple extra sets of those should be good enough.

Other than that, it's just some small things to have extras of
Gaskets: diffs and diff case in case you have to change diff oils
Plastic inserts: for the arms, caster blocks, and the spacers for the rear hubs. Mainly if you feel the slop is too much for your tastes.
On the caster blocks, the inserts are a little hard to read. They come in 14,16, and 18 degree. I think the 16's are the most used so a little time seperating them will make it easier to know which is which.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:49 PM
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My diffs on my last one felt rough new so I installed another gasket and let them run in like that until the first fluid change.

Parts to get are steering ends, shock ends, and rear outer hinge pins. Ive been driving this thing for a long time and havent broken an arm yet. It does bend front driveshafts way too easily but they can be straightened and it hasnt put me out of any races.

When I did the worlds upgrades to my RC8B it said to dremel out the C-hub around the CVD area so I am doing that on my new truggy to see if that wont stop those front CVDs from bending.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:48 AM
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[QUOTE=Teufel Racing;10425548]A), I think that you might have something not right in the diff. Off a tooth on a gear, cross pins not seated right, shims not right. It's something for sure. The diff should feel more or less like your B when new. I'd take the diff apart and recheck it.


Thanks! That was tremendously helpful and you probably just saved me from some day 1 repairs. I pulled the diffs apart last night i definitely found a couple of issues. They turn nice and smooth now by hand before being installed in the suspension blocks. I just needed that frame of reference.
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:33 PM
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Thanks! That was tremendously helpful and you probably just saved me from some day 1 repairs. I pulled the diffs apart last night i definitely found a couple of issues. They turn nice and smooth now by hand before being installed in the suspension blocks. I just needed that frame of reference.[/QUOTE]



Glad it helped.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:56 AM
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Default Clutch Springs??

Can anyone explain when/what clutch sprongs to use? I just finished putting together the RC8T-CE kit and noticed an extra bag of clutch springs (1.0). The stock set up in the manual calls for 1.1 springs and it menitons using the 1.0 if using different clutch shoes other thant he stock aluminums. Looking at Maifields set up sheets, looks like he mixes them (2-1.0 & 1-1.1 or sometimes 2-1.1 and 1-1.0). I am running a Ninja BO2/w OS 2060 pipe and race on medium sized, bumpy outdoor track.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:05 AM
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the stiffer springs will make the engine rev up a bit more before allowing the shoes to engage. This will be felt as a more pronounced "hit" when you get on the gas.


You can use this to tune more or less punch from your engine, depending on track traction, desired fuel economy, etc.
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:32 AM
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Does the lightened diff outdrives from the .2 work on the truggy?
Same front and rear as buggy?
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Barry G
Does the lightened diff outdrives from the .2 work on the truggy?
Same front and rear as buggy?

I was looking at a r/c site that said the .2 light weight outdrives will work on the truggy but im not sure how they will hold up though on a truggy just try it.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I was looking at a r/c site that said the .2 light weight outdrives will work on the truggy but im not sure how they will hold up though on a truggy just try it.
I'm gonna try but need to know if the same front/rear as like the buggy.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry G
I'm gonna try but need to know if the same front/rear as like the buggy.
Yea that i dont know il ask one of Amain hobbies i want to try out the lighten outdrives also.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mstrfahrenheit
hey all. cool thread. i think I'm 3/4 the way through...

anyway... new RC8TCE owner here. i'm making good progress through the build but i had a few questions i hoped someone could help me with before get too much further.

2 on the Diffs:
A) I've followed the instructions and filled with the 7k diff fluid. After putting in the 4 3x14mm screws and snugly fastening them I can not hand crank them at all. Is this expected?

B) After I completed the front suspension build I can turn the differential pretty easily by turning the wheel hex or the CVA bone. My question is how smooth should the differential feel? In other words it turns pretty smooth and doesn't bind at all, but i can absolutely feel the gears turning. It's much smoother when its not installed in the suspension but i don't have a frame of reference to tell whether its correct or whether something is too tight. i hope that makes sense... I'm going to build the rear tonight and I don't want to have to rip them both apart if I've done something wrong


Finally, what parts/screws should i get to keep in my race kit. What breaks often or what needs replacing? I want to order some stuff today for my first track day this weekend.

thanks!
I take the diff housing and using an diamond knife sharpener the flat kind,make sure the housing is flat then I use diff gaskets to shim the gear for smoothness works great.you can have it as tight or loose as you like it.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:39 PM
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Have you guys tried green slime on the RC8T shock o-rings ? I know i herd from some people that it can make some 1/8 scale o-rings swell up ?

Also on the Rc8t manual it says to tread on the shock end to the eyelid ?
But when my RC8TCE came out of the box the shock end was treaded all the way on intill it stops thats what i been doing .


Also have any of you tried 0 rebound and let the springs do the work more ?

If so how is it on big jumps and other surfaces ? It just seems easier to bleed the shocks right rather than trying to get equal rebound .
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