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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 06-29-2011, 03:54 AM
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It just makes me feel that much better about. Leaving them on the truck then
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:26 PM
  #3152  
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So yea basicly, I of some reason cant get my diffs to stop leaking. Ive rebuilt them several times but they leak after only a few minutes on the track. New seals new O-rings everything.
Is this some sort of known problem where you have to use O-rings from some other manufacturer or is it just me? Cause I can assure you that I know how to build diffs, Ive had alot of cars over the years, and they arent leaking a drop on my Serpent for example.
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Lilja
So yea basicly, I of some reason cant get my diffs to stop leaking. Ive rebuilt them several times but they leak after only a few minutes on the track. New seals new O-rings everything.
Is this some sort of known problem where you have to use O-rings from some other manufacturer or is it just me? Cause I can assure you that I know how to build diffs, Ive had alot of cars over the years, and they arent leaking a drop on my Serpent for example.
Is the oil coming out via the output shafts, or from around the gears? I assume you're pre-oiling the o-rings, so you shouldn't get any leakage around the output shafts.

I would also recommend gently sanding the open end of the diff case to get a better seal against the diff gear...cast plastic is rarely flat, so a bit of time with some sandpaper (fine grit) will help flatten that particular surface.

I don't think you can totally prevent leakage - these diffs are under quite a bit of stress, so leakage (at least a small amount) is inevitable - I think so, anyways.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:36 PM
  #3154  
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Originally Posted by Lilja
So yea basicly, I of some reason cant get my diffs to stop leaking. Ive rebuilt them several times but they leak after only a few minutes on the track. New seals new O-rings everything.
Is this some sort of known problem where you have to use O-rings from some other manufacturer or is it just me? Cause I can assure you that I know how to build diffs, Ive had alot of cars over the years, and they arent leaking a drop on my Serpent for example.
I know a lot of guys were using the kyosho red o rings for the diffs. Associated has made a running change in the diff o rings which are the same thing as the kyosho but white. Also, put lucas oil red grease on your o rings. Knock on wood, I haven't had any problem with leaky diffs for a looong time. How full are you filling the diffs?
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:46 PM
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Well the funny thing is that last year I ran AE in both buggy and truggy.
All my diffs were leaking heavely on both cars at first, so I rebuilt them with new seals. The buggy was fine after the rebuild and stopped leaking.
I didnt drive the truggy after the rebuild last season though cause I was focusing mainly on buggy. Then I drove it once in the beginning of this season and havent touched it since, once again because I was focused on buggy (this time Serpent).
Figured Id run a few laps at the track next weekend so started to set it up again, but noticed that the front diff has been leaking ALOT. And thats only after like 50 or so laps after a new build.

I build my diffs just as Ive always built them. Preoil all the O-rings, sand the case alittle to make the fit better. Fill them to the edge of the gears.

Its weird, probably doesnt really matter since Im gonna sell it after this summer anyways but itd be nice to get it in order still.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Lilja
So yea basicly, I of some reason cant get my diffs to stop leaking. Ive rebuilt them several times but they leak after only a few minutes on the track. New seals new O-rings everything.
Is this some sort of known problem where you have to use O-rings from some other manufacturer or is it just me? Cause I can assure you that I know how to build diffs, Ive had alot of cars over the years, and they arent leaking a drop on my Serpent for example.
i started using the kyosho orange o-rings,but AE clear are good also..the clears are the updated ones,original black are junk.. i dont know how old your housings are but i believe they warp a bit.. i put red grease in a large syringe and i put a ring in the o ring seat,so it sits in nice,and put a pinch of grease on top of o-ring,then the shims. i would start fresh with new housings,put grease how i said,and a new housing gasket,also use the new ae/ lucas diff oi. l i did this and i swear i had zero leaks.. i use to be nervous my diffs would be low because they leaked but no worries now.. i change every 1.5-2 hours driving time to be safe.
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:42 PM
  #3157  
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Originally Posted by king revo
i started using the kyosho orange o-rings,but AE clear are good also..the clears are the updated ones,original black are junk.. i dont know how old your housings are but i believe they warp a bit.. i put red grease in a large syringe and i put a ring in the o ring seat,so it sits in nice,and put a pinch of grease on top of o-ring,then the shims. i would start fresh with new housings,put grease how i said,and a new housing gasket,also use the new ae/ lucas diff oi. l i did this and i swear i had zero leaks.. i use to be nervous my diffs would be low because they leaked but no worries now.. i change every 1.5-2 hours driving time to be safe.
The ones I rebuilt mine with was the same as the ones I got with the truck.
But if I decide to rebuild them again before selling Ill make sure to get the updated ones or the kyosho.
Its impossible to see where the leaks are coming from since the entire case is like splattered with oil so, but Im guessing its coming from the outdrives.
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:58 AM
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I just fill my diffs just over the pins. I found that if I filled them any more then that they leaked. If your filling them all the way to the top of the gears I would say that is causing the problem. I don't even have the new o-rings and my diffs don't show any signs of leakage....at least not my truggy diffs. My e-buggy on the other hand leaks from the center diff. I think that is because the plastic spur has dimples in the area where the basket goes. I just rebuilt it again and if it leaks this time I'm gonna put a little rtv on the gear side of the gasket.
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:03 AM
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Hi guys, got an issue with my RC8T, mainly when goin round left hand turns,well that`s when it`s more noticeable, truggy goes wide on power, I have to back of a bit to get it to turn in more, seems better going round right hand turns, Just curious if this would be a servo saver issue, or maybe I can try other things to try improve it.eg. front kickup, diff oils, caster etc, I did put narrow wheel hexes on front a while back, but I think at the time it was pushing on left&right hand corners, the hexes did improve it allround. so if anyone has had similar issues, please feel free to respond to my issue...cheers...
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:15 AM
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I hope you put the narrow hexes on all 4 corners and not just the front.

For your turning problem have you checked your arms. I've noticed that after a hard impact rather then breaking an arm it will bend in back causing a substantial change in caster which could cause steering problems in one direction. Besides checking that check your radio just to make sure everything is even and accurate and remove the shocks and check for proper suspension movement and alignment.

Also just wondering if your using a stock AE wing. If so swap it out for another brand IMO JConcepts is the best at giving good downforce without sacrificing high speed steering
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by PTP Racing
I hope you put the narrow sexes on all 4 corners and not just the front.

For your turning problem have you checked your arms. I've noticed that after a hard impact rather then breaking an arm it will bend in back causing a substantial change in caster which could cause steering problems in one direction. Besides checking that check your radio just to make sure everything is even and accurate and remove the shocks and check for proper suspension movement and alignment.

Also just wondering if your using a stock AE wing. If so swap it out for another brand IMO JConcepts is the best at giving good downforce without sacrificing high speed steering
Thanks PTP, Yes I only put hexes on front, will it help this issue if I put hexes on rear also? I gather you are talking about the front upper arms? I will replace those anyway, And yes, my radio settings are all even.epa etc. also yes I am running the stock wing...cheers for feedback...
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:36 AM
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I don't know what kind of issue running different widths would have but I would put the narrow ones on the back. I feel like it just has to be better.

And no I was talking about the lower arms. I hadn't paid much attention in the past but noticed this week both of my cars left lower arms were badly bent in the back. It caused my caster to be much different left and right which could cause weird steering iv one direction or another.

I've been running these RC8 cars since their release and I'm still learning. After I noticed the bends in the arms I went back to my old parts and sure enough they had the same bends in them. I also noticed my front center driveshaft was really worn after just about 2.5 gallons of fuel. Seems I havent been keeping up my cars as well as I thought. It sure has been a lot tougher since I got the e-buggy to run as a 2nd class.
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:20 AM
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Question. Is there a upgrade suspention kit for the rc8t like recently came out for the rc8b?
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:28 AM
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Moe,

As far as I have been told the answer is no. At least not currently being done, but I wouldn't be suprised to see some type of change before you see a new truck. I too am hoping that they do a suspension upgrade like they did on the buggy.
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:37 PM
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i know what upgrade the rc8t could use is have diffrent front steering knuckles that dont use those pesky steering bushings

and maybe a longer chassis on the rear end.

other than that i cant think of what else it could need it handles and drives good as it is as nitro or converted to electric like my.
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