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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 05-11-2011, 10:38 AM
  #2986  
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Originally Posted by Audiobahnaholic
According to tower hobbies the rc8t bones are 137mm long and 3.7mm thick and the mgt bones are 5mm thick and you said 137.5 long so they should fit with no issues. Too lazy to measure my rc8t.
Keep in mind when u beef up one part u weaken another.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Audiobahnaholic
According to tower hobbies the rc8t bones are 137mm long and 3.7mm thick and the mgt bones are 5mm thick and you said 137.5 long so they should fit with no issues. Too lazy to measure my rc8t.
Thank You.
Now I know they will fit if I ever bend any of the standard RC8T CVD Bones. The drive pins are longer so they will have to be cut, other wise they will be sticking out when installed into the diff cup ends.
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:30 PM
  #2988  
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i, been wondering this i know the manuel says 4.5 mm with the stock brake disc but i notice that just a tick of play or so is still to tight.

so, i have about "1mm" or so of play and that seems to work but is that to much play i have the brake linkage setup already setup on it with a little bit of a "gap" between the brake tubing and the brakes seem to work but than again i havent ran it yet so i know it changes .

i been adjusting the brake pads with the whole center diff and everything else together.

this is with the power on adjusting all of it.

the, brakes will engage with even a little bit of brake with about 30% atl on the radio but again its not running though ?

so is that good ?

Last edited by tc5 man; 05-13-2011 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 05-14-2011, 11:13 AM
  #2989  
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anybody ?
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:19 PM
  #2990  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
i, been wondering this i know the manuel says 4.5 mm with the stock brake disc but i notice that just a tick of play or so is still to tight.

so, i have about "1mm" or so of play and that seems to work but is that to much play i have the brake linkage setup already setup on it with a little bit of a "gap" between the brake tubing and the brakes seem to work but than again i havent ran it yet so i know it changes .

i been adjusting the brake pads with the whole center diff and everything else together.

this is with the power on adjusting all of it.

the, brakes will engage with even a little bit of brake with about 30% atl on the radio but again its not running though ?

so is that good ?

I am not sure about your linkage since there are alot of variables there, but the
pads should be set at the .5mm gap as specified in the manual. Remember
though thats .5mm beyond whatever the discs measure out at. When I do any
thing with the center diff I always resurface the discs with 100grit paper on a
flat surface, then I measure them and reset the proper .5mm gap. If they get
oil fouled you can bake them in the oven at 300deg for 10min or so to burn the
oil out of the disc material. But after a few resurfacings they mic out less
than the 4mm. Once you wear a groove in the metal pads you can flip them
around and run them on the other side. The key here is to make sure the gap
is square on both sides of the pad.

The linkage setup is a little more tricky. I started with the rods screwed into
the servo arm pivot flush, the sliders and fuel tubing should be cut so that
everything is square at idle. In other words with the servo at center and the
two linkage arms for the brakes at 90 deg the washers at the end of the tubing
should have only a small gap between them and the arms. As I remember the length
for the tubing and the collar spacing was in the manual.
After I got to the track the only real adjustment I have ever made was to add
more rear bias by screwing the linkage rod further into the pivot. After that
the BRG(brake rate gain) is the only real tuning aid I use other than rear droop.

If your brakes seem to tight with the proper clearance the only problems that
I can think of would be.

1.Shoes not square. Try readjusting them so that the gap is .5mm larger
than the ACTUAL measurement of the disc and make sure you keep the pads square.

2. Fuel tubing is to long or the collars are set to short. Either of these would
not allow the linkage arms to return to neutral.

Simple rule of thumb is with the trigger at neutral or idle the car should roll
free.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:49 PM
  #2991  
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Originally Posted by JsK
I am not sure about your linkage since there are alot of variables there, but the
pads should be set at the .5mm gap as specified in the manual. Remember
though thats .5mm beyond whatever the discs measure out at. When I do any
thing with the center diff I always resurface the discs with 100grit paper on a
flat surface, then I measure them and reset the proper .5mm gap. If they get
oil fouled you can bake them in the oven at 300deg for 10min or so to burn the
oil out of the disc material. But after a few resurfacings they mic out less
than the 4mm. Once you wear a groove in the metal pads you can flip them
around and run them on the other side. The key here is to make sure the gap
is square on both sides of the pad.

The linkage setup is a little more tricky. I started with the rods screwed into
the servo arm pivot flush, the sliders and fuel tubing should be cut so that
everything is square at idle. In other words with the servo at center and the
two linkage arms for the brakes at 90 deg the washers at the end of the tubing
should have only a small gap between them and the arms. As I remember the length
for the tubing and the collar spacing was in the manual.
After I got to the track the only real adjustment I have ever made was to add
more rear bias by screwing the linkage rod further into the pivot. After that
the BRG(brake rate gain) is the only real tuning aid I use other than rear droop.

If your brakes seem to tight with the proper clearance the only problems that
I can think of would be.

1.Shoes not square. Try readjusting them so that the gap is .5mm larger
than the ACTUAL measurement of the disc and make sure you keep the pads square.

2. Fuel tubing is to long or the collars are set to short. Either of these would
not allow the linkage arms to return to neutral.

Simple rule of thumb is with the trigger at neutral or idle the car should roll
free.




ok, thanks well i know the fuel tubing for the brakes is pretty equal i did have to trim them a little one was a little bit longer than the other .

yea, il try that im not sure what you mean about keeping the pads square though but il set them at .5mm and measure the gap with calibers with the whole thing together pads etc .

i will try 1mm gap on the fuel tubing on the brakes also.
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:02 PM
  #2992  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
ok, thanks well i know the fuel tubing for the brakes is pretty equal i did have to trim them a little one was a little bit longer than the other .

yea, il try that im not sure what you mean about keeping the pads square though but il set them at .5mm and measure the gap with calibers with the whole thing together pads etc .

i will try 1mm gap on the fuel tubing on the brakes also.
What I mean by keeping the pads square is that the gap needs to be consitent across the whole pad. So make sure you measure right next
to the screws not in the center of the pad.
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:12 PM
  #2993  
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Originally Posted by JsK
What I mean by keeping the pads square is that the gap needs to be consitent across the whole pad. So make sure you measure right next
to the screws not in the center of the pad.


oh ok i get what your saying thanks .

yea, the last time i raced when i was practicing the stock brakes actually melted on me and melted part of the center diff mount and pads !

needless, to say even though i got most of all the melted plastic and the shavings it dint help since the brake discs locked up during the race likely because of flatspots.

it was a number of things why that happen though .

the stock brake disc arent cheap lol .



update : i, tryed to get the the measurement at 5.00 mm and beyond that and it was still to tight and the "disc" dint slide into the "brake pads smooth" so i ended up with 6.17 mm its smooth there is about i would say 1mm of play or less.

maybe they just have to wear in more while i race to get it at that .5mm .

there brand new pads.

nevermind, i think i got it right now i adjusted with it together in the truck and it seems to roll free with the power on and a decent amount of a gap on the brake disc not to much i would say.

Last edited by tc5 man; 05-14-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 05-14-2011, 11:37 PM
  #2994  
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Questions??

hey guys just a quick question. What reciever packs are people running as i cant seem to fit a hump pack and my sr3000T spektrum reciever in my battery box??
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:00 AM
  #2995  
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Originally Posted by yuppi1
hey guys just a quick question. What reciever packs are people running as i cant seem to fit a hump pack and my sr3000T spektrum reciever in my battery box??
its meant to be receiver and straight pack batts

the hump pack goes up the front for the new CE edition with the extra battery box upfront like the rc8b

i use a a intellect 1600 nimh in my rc8t
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
oh ok i get what your saying thanks .

yea, the last time i raced when i was practicing the stock brakes actually melted on me and melted part of the center diff mount and pads !

needless, to say even though i got most of all the melted plastic and the shavings it dint help since the brake discs locked up during the race likely because of flatspots.

it was a number of things why that happen though .

the stock brake disc arent cheap lol .



update : i, tryed to get the the measurement at 5.00 mm and beyond that and it was still to tight and the "disc" dint slide into the "brake pads smooth" so i ended up with 6.17 mm its smooth there is about i would say 1mm of play or less.

maybe they just have to wear in more while i race to get it at that .5mm .

there brand new pads.

nevermind, i think i got it right now i adjusted with it together in the truck and it seems to roll free with the power on and a decent amount of a gap on the brake disc not to much i would say.
If you do run the gap too tight, the constant drag brake effect will definitely generate too much heat and melt the plastic housing. You'll want to clean that up or replace it if it's melted too badly.

For the gap adjustment, the simplest way to do it is as per Brandon's tips video #3: tighten the brake pads onto the disk and then take both screws out 3/4 of a turn (1/2 to 3/4 works for me, depending on how tight you get the screws in the first place). It's quick, no measuring and works every time even as your disks wear down.
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by yuppi1
hey guys just a quick question. What reciever packs are people running as i cant seem to fit a hump pack and my sr3000T spektrum reciever in my battery box??
get the reedy 2100 lipo, its a perfect fit in the up front battery box. the truck handles great up front and you have loads of room in receiver tray to keep your sh## nice and neat. i get great runtime with this lipo,its light and great fit.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rc pete
If you do run the gap too tight, the constant drag brake effect will definitely generate too much heat and melt the plastic housing. You'll want to clean that up or replace it if it's melted too badly.

For the gap adjustment, the simplest way to do it is as per Brandon's tips video #3: tighten the brake pads onto the disk and then take both screws out 3/4 of a turn (1/2 to 3/4 works for me, depending on how tight you get the screws in the first place). It's quick, no measuring and works every time even as your disks wear down.



i, watched the video but i did it with the whole center diff together and went ny feel and theres not to much play enough where it rolls free and the spur gear also.

yea i already got new "brake pads" and center diff mount brake disc.
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:02 PM
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[QUOTE=tc5 man;9120956]i, watched the video but i did it with the whole center diff together and went by feel and theres not to much play enough where it rolls free and where the spur gear feels free when i turned it with no tightspot.

yea i already got new "brake pads" and center diff mount brake disc.


sorry double post .
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:12 PM
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has, anybody ever tried a "13 bell" with the stock gearing on a big track that is techinal or is that really just asking for a lot of wheelspin because i know this truggy is quick already lol just wondering ?

also, i dont know if you guys noticed this but the air filter boot doesnt go all the way down on to the carb ?

i, have the long end on the boot that goes onto the carb and the short end to the fiter just like the manuel shows.

but it does cover the actual carb so i goes its fine .

Last edited by tc5 man; 05-17-2011 at 07:22 PM.
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