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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 03-09-2011, 04:41 PM
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whats the concensus here on running battery foward? i know what is supposed to be expected with weight foward like added steering etc, but is a little lipo really enhancing anything noticebly?
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by king revo
whats the concensus here on running battery foward? i know what is supposed to be expected with weight foward like added steering etc, but is a little lipo really enhancing anything noticebly?
I have never tried it myself, i'm kind of curious too.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by king revo
whats the concensus here on running battery foward? i know what is supposed to be expected with weight foward like added steering etc, but is a little lipo really enhancing anything noticebly?
Great question but I know I can't help because I have never not ran it up front but isn't it tough cramming it all in the receiver box? Need someone who has tried both (was going to ask who has gone both ways but that just sounded wrong).
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:19 PM
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I have a HUGE question, i am new to my rc8t champ edition that i converted to electric. I didnt build it though but i want to rebuild the diffs and shocks, i have my fluids and diff gasket, what else do i need AND what is the best way to get to the front and rear diffs, it seems like soo much. PLEASE help me, it will be greatly appreciated!!! here is a picture of mine. I look forward to the hints, thanks!!!!
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58
I have a HUGE question, i am new to my rc8t champ edition that i converted to electric. I didnt build it though but i want to rebuild the diffs and shocks, i have my fluids and diff gasket, what else do i need AND what is the best way to get to the front and rear diffs, it seems like soo much. PLEASE help me, it will be greatly appreciated!!! here is a picture of mine. I look forward to the hints, thanks!!!!
Your best bet is to check the manual, if you dont have one download it from rc10.com. As long as nothing is bad you only need the fluids. Getting the diff out is very simple and easy but kinda hard to explain, the pictures in the manual might help you out. Dont be intimidated, none of this is that hard.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:38 PM
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I see the manual but to just remove the diffs there is no shortcut, can you give me a quick explanation of what screws i have to undo to make it the fastest diff swap ? THANKS
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58
I see the manual but to just remove the diffs there is no shortcut, can you give me a quick explanation of what screws i have to undo to make it the fastest diff swap ? THANKS
I am trying from memory so bear with me, in the rear you need to undo the ends of the sway bar, the screws that hold the D plate on and the two screws just below the shock tower that are close together, then take out the two rear screws under the chassis and loosen up the front two under the chassis a bit and you should be able to slide that diff half off with the wing still attached, the you'll get the idea for the front.

Last edited by dragracechief; 03-09-2011 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58
I see the manual but to just remove the diffs there is no shortcut, can you give me a quick explanation of what screws i have to undo to make it the fastest diff swap ? THANKS
You just need to remove one side of the gearbox. If I remember correctly, you just have to remove 2 screws that hold the gearbox to the chassis, 4 screws that hold the two gearbox halves together, the rear has an extra screws that hold the wing in place, and lastly remove the hardware that connects the swaybar to the gearbox and slide the swaybar over the gearbox.

Once you do this a few times, you can rebuild a diff in no time.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:58 PM
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Done it a hundred times without thinking but without the truck in front of me and trying to explain it is a bit tough but youll get it. Just look and think it through.
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by king revo
whats the concensus here on running battery foward? i know what is supposed to be expected with weight foward like added steering etc, but is a little lipo really enhancing anything noticebly?
When I first got my truck there was no foward battery box so I rigged one with a old piece of battery tray from the original rc10 was using a nihm humpack and there was a pretty big difference steering wise with it up front.But thats also when I was running the older steering set up now im using lipo and the newer steering setup. So i dont think running the battery foward will make a huge difference up front due to how light a lipo is but I do think it helps balance the front of the truck a little better as it is opposite your fuel tank. It also gives you a lot more room in your reciever box also if my lipo ever explode,s hopefully it will just take out my steering servo and not all my elecrtronic,s
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:07 AM
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I have 2 lipos one is the larger 2100mah and the other is the smaller 1600mah and I like how the truck feels with the 2100 better than the 1600. Even though the difference is very slight it does make a difference. Running the battery up front is a trend that appears to be spreading to the Kyosho camp as well so there is definitely something to it.

To remove the diffs you have to loosen or remove all 4 screws holding the gearbox to the chassis because of the small plastic tabs on the bottom of the gearbox that key into the chassis in addition to everything dragracecheif said.
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SEF
You just need to remove one side of the gearbox. If I remember correctly, you just have to remove 2 screws that hold the gearbox to the chassis, 4 screws that hold the two gearbox halves together, the rear has an extra screws that hold the wing in place, and lastly remove the hardware that connects the swaybar to the gearbox and slide the swaybar over the gearbox.

Once you do this a few times, you can rebuild a diff in no time.
No unfortunately you need to remove the entire case since there are notches in the chassiplate for both the gearbox halves and for the D plate.

What you need to do is, for the rear, remove the screw holding the chassibrace.
Then remove the 4 screws holding the gearbox. After that you can remove the gearbox from the chassi.
I would then proceed to remove the shocks cause that makes it a bit easier to work with. And to do that you need to remove the nuts that holds the shocks to the shocktower. Then loosen the setscrews that holds the pins in the A-arms, you dont need to remove it just loosen it alot. If youve done that you can pull out the pin that holds the shocks with a plier.
After youve removed the shocks you need to loosen the swaybar. This is easy the only thing you need to do is loosen the 2 setscrews that holds the swaybar to the mounts in the A-arms.
When youve done that you loosen the two screws that holds the D-plate to the gearbox. Then you can remove the D-plate. After that you only have the two upper screws left and you can remove the rear part of the gearbox and remove the diff.
Its basicly the same thing in the front except you need to remove the 2 screws that holds the topplate to the servosaver.
The easiest is the middle one. Remove the horn from the throttle servo, then remove the 4 screws that holds the topplate on the centerdiff and then you can just remove the whole thing.

It really bugs me that most new cars requires you to remove the entire rear and front of the car to get the diff out. In the old days you could usually just remove the 2 rear screws and the 4 screws that holds the cases together.
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Old 03-10-2011, 03:34 PM
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Ooo
Originally Posted by Lilja
No unfortunately you need to remove the entire case since there are notches in the chassiplate for both the gearbox halves and for the D plate.

What you need to do is, for the rear, remove the screw holding the chassibrace.
Then remove the 4 screws holding the gearbox. After that you can remove the gearbox from the chassi.
I would then proceed to remove the shocks cause that makes it a bit easier to work with. And to do that you need to remove the nuts that holds the shocks to the shocktower. Then loosen the setscrews that holds the pins in the A-arms, you dont need to remove it just loosen it alot. If youve done that you can pull out the pin that holds the shocks with a plier.
After youve removed the shocks you need to loosen the swaybar. This is easy the only thing you need to do is loosen the 2 setscrews that holds the swaybar to the mounts in the A-arms.
When youve done that you loosen the two screws that holds the D-plate to the gearbox. Then you can remove the D-plate. After that you only have the two upper screws left and you can remove the rear part of the gearbox and remove the diff.
Its basicly the same thing in the front except you need to remove the 2 screws that holds the topplate to the servosaver.
The easiest is the middle one. Remove the horn from the throttle servo, then remove the 4 screws that holds the topplate on the centerdiff and then you can just remove the whole thing.

It really bugs me that most new cars requires you to remove the entire rear and front of the car to get the diff out. In the old days you could usually just remove the 2 rear screws and the 4 screws that holds the cases together.
I never remove the entire front or rear, take out the rear most screws under the chassis and just loosen the front ones a bit for the rear, oppisite for the front and you can just remove the half to get to the diff, its pretty simple.
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Old 03-10-2011, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dragracechief
Ooo

I never remove the entire front or rear, take out the rear most screws under the chassis and just loosen the front ones a bit for the rear, oppisite for the front and you can just remove the half to get to the diff, its pretty simple.
+1 something like 8 screws and the diff is out
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dragracechief
Ooo

I never remove the entire front or rear, take out the rear most screws under the chassis and just loosen the front ones a bit for the rear, oppisite for the front and you can just remove the half to get to the diff, its pretty simple.
+1.

You can get at the diff without removing the entire front or rear end. I was incorrect in forgetting to mention that you do have to loosen the other two screws that hold the inner gearbox half in place (gearbox half that attaches to the B and C plates). Once these are loose, you can unscrew the two bolts that hold the D plate in place and you can angle the gearbox in such a way where you should be able to remove the D plate, even though the D plate has a notch that slides into the chassis.
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