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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 01-17-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sriley
I'm about to tear mine down. I would definetly replace all the bearing since you have it apart. It would suck if you don't and a diff bearing goes while racing. I'm going to clean out the diffs and inspect and refill. The same thing with the shocks. Then like you said replace any worn out part or cracked parts.
You know of somewhere to get all the bearings? Like in a package? I see the set from RC Screwz.. But im wondering if thats a good deal or not...

Edit: Nevermind i found the FT set on Amain for 79.99.. I assume those are the stock bearings...
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:52 AM
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I bought my bearings from Boca. They have different sets of bearings to choose form for a bunch brands. I went the $1 a bearing route. Any bearing that is exposed is going to go bad. If you are going to spen the money I would do it on the F/R diffs. They are protected. I also got my engine bearing from the also and I did spend a little more on those.
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:26 PM
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selling a rc8t ce with a picco 21 evo 3 and 2 hitec servo's ....hs7955tg and hs645mg .......and a bunch of extra parts to go along with it includeing the factory team carbon fiber shock towers and radio tray ........the truck has been raced about a dozen times at 2 tracks one in jersey and in penn. the motor only has about a gallon and half through it , comes with a jammin jp3 pipe , the truck is very clean .....also comes with shock oils and diff fluids , right now the diffs have no fluids in them. truck was taken apart after race season and cleaned .new parts were put on front and rear arms and all the ce parts ...shock towers and front and rear plates and has the new radio tray also comes with 3 sets of tires Ibeam, Gridions and City Blocks plus a custom painted body .......iam looking for $450.00 or best offer .......if interested message me back will pay for shipping and if local will bring to u ....















Last edited by BigThyperST; 01-23-2011 at 06:24 AM. Reason: Price Change
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:07 AM
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Thought some dude posted up he'll take it in your post
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:28 AM
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no changed his mind
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Old 01-21-2011, 02:26 PM
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How does everyone clean out your diffs? The old fluid is nasty and id like to get it all out.
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:14 PM
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i think most really dont get them spotless clean. i personally get as much as i can out with motor cleaner and a towel and thats it .
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:06 PM
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Paper towl and gravity...
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:29 PM
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Could anyone give me a list of all the parts that are different on the CE? Right now I have the FT and I am upgrading it. I already have the ABCD plates done, steering mod, updated radio tray, big bore shocks, punisher body. What else is different?
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Audiobahnaholic
Could anyone give me a list of all the parts that are different on the CE? Right now I have the FT and I am upgrading it. I already have the ABCD plates done, steering mod, updated radio tray, big bore shocks, punisher body. What else is different?
Shock towers, narrow hubs.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:45 AM
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Okay guys I need some advice. I'm also getting ready to change my diff and shock fluids. I run at Hobby Hut which tends to be very dry, dusty and slick. I was wondering what diff fluids would be best for this type of track. Also this past season it was really rough towards the end of the season. Last season I started with 7-7-7. Then I changed the rear to 5 to stop the back end from coming around. It seemed to fix the problem. What I'm thinking of doing is 7-10-5. I was thinking of the 10 for the center to stop the front tires from spinning so much. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2011, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sriley
Okay guys I need some advice. I'm also getting ready to change my diff and shock fluids. I run at Hobby Hut which tends to be very dry, dusty and slick. I was wondering what diff fluids would be best for this type of track. Also this past season it was really rough towards the end of the season. Last season I started with 7-7-7. Then I changed the rear to 5 to stop the back end from coming around. It seemed to fix the problem. What I'm thinking of doing is 7-10-5. I was thinking of the 10 for the center to stop the front tires from spinning so much. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.




hey you might know me i have a "silver dodge nitro" and have a blue and yellow eight-t 1.0 i race at hobby hut last year ?

on my "eight-t 1.0" at least "7/10/3" seemed to work but the rear end still wanted to spin out also sometimes i whould try 2000 in the rear .

try 7/10/3 on the rc8t or 7/10/2 .

im getting a rc8t champ ed also when the hut season starts this year.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:23 PM
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anyone has a pic of lightened chassis?
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RC8tmaniac
anyone has a pic of lightened chassis?
Here is a pic of a lightend RC8 chassis, Rc8t would be similar.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips-big-racing_chassis.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ajj
Paper towl and gravity...
Thanks. THats pretty much what i did.
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