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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 12-20-2010, 05:37 PM
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I ran an indoor race on Sunday with my RC8T. The track is very tight and blue groove w/dust. Lots of hard acceleration and braking.

I ran two 7min quals, 20 minute B-main, and bumped to a 30 minute A-main. About 20 minutes into the A-Main the handling went to heck. After the race I checked it out -- the front and rear diffs were locked, so I was driving with two solid axles.

Below are pictures of what was inside. On the left is a gear from my rear diff, and on the right is a new one... Both the front and rear diff gears look identical, so the issue was at least "consistent" from front to rear. Center is fine. Bearings are still like new.

Is this just from the hard braking and acceleration, or is there some other potential cause? Is there something I can do to improve reliability on these? Right now they're built per stock except with mugen seals to keep them from leaking. Maybe heavier fluid, some type of additional shimming, lighter clutch, lighter breaking?

Thanks for the help as always....



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Old 12-20-2010, 05:52 PM
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internal mesh was loose, use ae gaskets they don't leak. if your diff screws come loose it may leak though, try longer screws, if they back out even 1/4 turn or cups are stripped this will happen. i put a dab of ca under the head of the screw so its "glued" to the crown gear when tight. no issues in 1 year.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:02 PM
  #2118  
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Is it maybe a habit in your building method? Seems weird to do the exact same thing to both diffs the same race.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by j_blaze14
internal mesh was loose, use ae gaskets they don't leak. if your diff screws come loose it may leak though, try longer screws, if they back out even 1/4 turn or cups are stripped this will happen. i put a dab of ca under the head of the screw so its "glued" to the crown gear when tight. no issues in 1 year.
My diff's leaked bad before going to the mugen gaskets, the fix is something I picked up from the buggy thread since several people had leaky diff issues. It is very possible they are slightly thicker which caused the mesh to be loose. I'll check it on the calipers tomorrow...

It's also possible I didn't put enough of a hurtin' on the diff screws when I built them. I'll go to longer screws and make it happen.

Thanks!

Any issue extracting the screws from the crown gear with the CA dab on it or does it break pretty easy?
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:09 AM
  #2120  
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aray- I am not pointing blame, but I can speak from pure experience and long term use that is sounds like a build/install error. Also just make sure you are using 2 of the metal shims on each side under the cross pin. AE has also just changed there Orings and they are now a clear color for the larger one, the new ones should take care of the leak issue you had wit the stock black ones. The mugen rings may not be as think, allowing the gear to sit closer to the case messing up the mesh. If you can't find the new AE ones at a LHS, Kyosho P6 orings will work in a pinch.

I believe 100% that when built correctly, the AE diffs can handle the most abuse of any on the market. Your track conditions should have no effect on the durability of internal gears.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:20 AM
  #2121  
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Never had any problems with any RC8 Series diffs.
They are Bullet proof.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by BigAlz
Wanted to get some opinions about my chassis. I busted the rear molded brace. And bent the rear of the chassis..I bent it back and put on the round aluminum FT brace and it bent that and popped the ball end off... im thinking maybe its soft now. Cause on 5 gallons through my old FT I never broke or even bent the rear brace. I do have the FT square aluminum braces.. but thought they were to stiff?? I haven't raced with them yet.. but just what i've heard.
Hey guys. Any input on this? Basically I have a new chassis. But was trying to save it still. And also wasent sure if I wanted to go back to the plastic braces.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:37 AM
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I would just run the new chassis and any braces that you have left over. I have the FT version and run the round FT Braces. Someday I may switch to the plastic ones or alum. ones.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:43 AM
  #2124  
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Originally Posted by Brandon Melton
aray- I am not pointing blame, but I can speak from pure experience and long term use that is sounds like a build/install error. Also just make sure you are using 2 of the metal shims on each side under the cross pin. AE has also just changed there Orings and they are now a clear color for the larger one, the new ones should take care of the leak issue you had wit the stock black ones. The mugen rings may not be as think, allowing the gear to sit closer to the case messing up the mesh. If you can't find the new AE ones at a LHS, Kyosho P6 orings will work in a pinch.

I believe 100% that when built correctly, the AE diffs can handle the most abuse of any on the market. Your track conditions should have no effect on the durability of internal gears.
lol - I have no concern about blame or illusions about this not being my fault, I continue to learn stuff every day. Looking back at my original post I should have phrased it more to that effect.

I agree the diffs have been bulletproof, which is why I was miffed. There were also two Mugen drivers (top 2 qualifiers) who broke major driveline components in that A, which was the only reason I thought it might be related to the conditions, good to know that isn't the case. I'm much happier if it was something I did incorrectly, since I can fix that....

I definitely used two shims under the cross pins, I'll look out for the new o-rings. I had some Kyosho P6's on order from the LHS as well. I'm only using the Mugen gaskets, not o-rings, I was still using the AE black o-rings.

Thanks
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mgtmadness2007
I would just run the new chassis and any braces that you have left over. I have the FT version and run the round FT Braces. Someday I may switch to the plastic ones or alum. ones.
i have a set of the round ones and square aluminum. but it bent the round one the first time back out on the track and i was thinking that maybe its soft now from being bent. cause ive never bent those before.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:02 AM
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Run the Machined alum. ones for now you may like them. Even if you do straighten out the round ones and run again it will be easier to bend.
Also make sure you order a new set of plastic braces and round alum. ones.

You can also try the mod Ryan Maifield did to his RC8 at the worlds which is run a strip of graphite along the side of his rear plastic brace.
Let us know how it ends up working out for you.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:36 AM
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Yeah sorry. I meant I think the chassis soft now. Cause I bent a round brace the first time out after breaking the plastic brace and bending the rear of the chassis up.
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:25 PM
  #2128  
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i, have a question does the rc8t ce handle like a 1/8 buggy or a truggy because my eight-t 1.0 handles like a truggy and nothing like my 1.0 eight buggy ?

i heard from a couple of guys on here saying that thier 2.0 t handles like a buggy .
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:00 PM
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It handles like the best truggy money can buy. LoL
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAlz
It handles like the best truggy money can buy. LoL
after going from the rc8t ce to the 8T 2.0. i beg to differ. Just my 2 cents. i'll leave it at that.
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