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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 09-29-2010, 03:52 AM
  #1816  
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guys any input on a tight track , its a medium size track .......would you do more toe out or less toe ? theres a section that really slow for me ,its a "S" section ?? .

Last edited by mbx5rcr34; 09-29-2010 at 05:02 AM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 04:45 AM
  #1817  
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Originally Posted by mbx5rcr34
guys any input on a tight track , its a medium size track .......would you do more toe out or less toe ? theres a section that really slow for me ,its a e "S" section .
I'm assuming you are talking about the front. More toe will give you less steering going IN. Less toe will give you more steering overall but make the truck hard to drive...kinda nervous. Try moving the spacers on the rear hub so that the wheel base is shorter. Also try the C hole in the (CNC rear hubs ) to make your camber link shorter. Should make the truck react a little quicker in the 180's.



Good luck
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:09 AM
  #1818  
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I asked last page but I'll ask again. What are the best ways to lighten up the truck. I have the RTR with 3mm shock towers and chassis. The kit has a 3mm chassis and 5mm towers. I would think going to them would be heavier.

Anyway, what parts are usually used to lighten up this truck?

Please and thank you,
Rich
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:54 PM
  #1819  
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Originally Posted by Mr.Mellow
I'm assuming you are talking about the front. More toe will give you less steering going IN. Less toe will give you more steering overall but make the truck hard to drive...kinda nervous. Try moving the spacers on the rear hub so that the wheel base is shorter. Also try the C hole in the (CNC rear hubs ) to make your camber link shorter. Should make the truck react a little quicker in the 180's.



Good luck
yes its the front ,thank you for the information, i will try to move the spacer (rear hub) ........interesting ,thanks
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Old 09-29-2010, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Do-Over
I asked last page but I'll ask again. What are the best ways to lighten up the truck. I have the RTR with 3mm shock towers and chassis. The kit has a 3mm chassis and 5mm towers. I would think going to them would be heavier.

Anyway, what parts are usually used to lighten up this truck?

Please and thank you,
Rich
I haven't done anything to lighten my truggy up yet. I have tried the aluminum axles but have broke them before on bad landings. The titanium tie rods can be used. You can also get the lunsford titanium screw kit but they're pricey. Graphite shock towers are also a little lighter.
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Old 09-29-2010, 02:49 PM
  #1821  
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Originally Posted by Shane Racer
I haven't done anything to lighten my truggy up yet. I have tried the aluminum axles but have broke them before on bad landings. The titanium tie rods can be used. You can also get the lunsford titanium screw kit but they're pricey. Graphite shock towers are also a little lighter.
Thank you I was considering getting the Graphite towers and servo tray I figured that would lighten it up a bit. I know people running the kit are saying they weigh around 9.4. When I weighed mine the other day it was at 10.25 with fuel and all. I'm not sure if the guy who gave me the other number weighed with fuel or not but I would assume the kit to be lighter than the RTR. I drove a lighter truggy the other day. It was a different brand but I liked how light it "felt". I would have never thought of the screw kit i'll look into that stuff thanks again.
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:00 PM
  #1822  
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Originally Posted by Do-Over
Thank you I was considering getting the Graphite towers and servo tray I figured that would lighten it up a bit. I know people running the kit are saying they weigh around 9.4. When I weighed mine the other day it was at 10.25 with fuel and all. I'm not sure if the guy who gave me the other number weighed with fuel or not but I would assume the kit to be lighter than the RTR. I drove a lighter truggy the other day. It was a different brand but I liked how light it "felt". I would have never thought of the screw kit i'll look into that stuff thanks again.
DO-Over: Things that you can try. Start with your battery, are you running a Life batery or a Lipo? I have a LIfe battery and it weighs about 20 grams lighter than the 1600 nickel metal. If you go Lipo it's another 10 grams or so. The graphite shock towers will save you another 15 -20 grams. If you are running the RTR, then the chassis is the heaviest thing that you can lighten up. If you have some friends that have access to a milling machine, the you can mill the areas under the receiver box, gas tank, and servo's. I do run the aluminum outdrives in the center drive shafts as well as the axles( I'm not as hard on the truck as my buddy Shane is ). Associated made the RTR truck to make it easier on the wallet to run our truck, but the trade off is the more standard , less expensive metal parts. But the truck still rocks!!!!
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Mellow
DO-Over: Things that you can try. Start with your battery, are you running a Life batery or a Lipo? I have a LIfe battery and it weighs about 20 grams lighter than the 1600 nickel metal. If you go Lipo it's another 10 grams or so. The graphite shock towers will save you another 15 -20 grams. If you are running the RTR, then the chassis is the heaviest thing that you can lighten up. If you have some friends that have access to a milling machine, the you can mill the areas under the receiver box, gas tank, and servo's. I do run the aluminum outdrives in the center drive shafts as well as the axles( I'm not as hard on the truck as my buddy Shane is ). Associated made the RTR truck to make it easier on the wallet to run our truck, but the trade off is the more standard , less expensive metal parts. But the truck still rocks!!!!
I agree, I love the truck and I think I'll buy the kit for next year. By milling it down, do you mean to mill the metal down, vertically as it sits, if this is the case could you do it with a grinding wheel? How much metal can be removed without compromising the structure of the chassis? i.e. Will it give excessive flex? I used to be a millwright (Welder/Conveyer mechanic) so I know a good deal about working metal but I don't have much experience with aluminum...

Also, I'm running a 1900 NiMh battery. I would love to switch to Life or Lipo but I'm afraid of the overhead required to jump into that. I hear it can be expensive to set up for Lipo.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Do-Over
I agree, I love the truck and I think I'll buy the kit for next year. By milling it down, do you mean to mill the metal down, vertically as it sits, if this is the case could you do it with a grinding wheel? How much metal can be removed without compromising the structure of the chassis? i.e. Will it give excessive flex? I used to be a millwright (Welder/Conveyer mechanic) so I know a good deal about working metal but I don't have much experience with aluminum...

Also, I'm running a 1900 NiMh battery. I would love to switch to Life or Lipo but I'm afraid of the overhead required to jump into that. I hear it can be expensive to set up for Lipo.
You can switch over to lipo pretty cheap.I run flight max 2100 2s lipo pack,s which just fit in the foward battery box.I get mine from a local hobby shop for about twenty bucks.But im sure if you shop the internet you can probally find them cheaper.Same with a lipo charger you can also find them pretty cheap.As far as using a grinder on your chassis I dont think you would be accurate enough removing the metal in the places it needs to be removed.I would definatley use a milling machine if you have access to one or just buy a factory team or ce chassis off ebay I have already bought three of them there for under 30.00 bucks.
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:54 PM
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hey guys i was wondering if the truggy is really good cause like i run the rc8b for racing and this winter im buying a truggy but i dont know what to go with a mugen mxb6 race roller or a rc8t worlds eddition? what do u guys think of ur rc8t and how is the durabilaty and control of the truck?
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rc8rules
hey guys i was wondering if the truggy is really good cause like i run the rc8b for racing and this winter im buying a truggy but i dont know what to go with a mugen mxb6 race roller or a rc8t worlds eddition? what do u guys think of ur rc8t and how is the durabilaty and control of the truck?
Personally I love my rc8t it jumps and handles great as far as durabilaty ive raced mine for about 2 years and only broke a front a arm at my friends track hitting a piece of rebar that was holding down the lane pipe.Also just recentley pulled the screws out of the rear gearbox due too real bad landings off a big jump.I have never driven a mugen but a couple friends of mine do and they like them.I think they are lighter than the rc8t as far as durabilaty cant say some guys say the front arms break alot but I guess it depends on how you drive either way i think they are both good truggys if possible depending where you race and if any of your freinds have both brands ask them to drive them and go with what truggy you like best.GOOD LUCK!
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:08 PM
  #1827  
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The RC8T is one of the best if not the best handling, durable truggy on the market!!

I thought more toe out gave you better steering going in the corner but less top end speed and a little twitchy on long straights.. I do not have a set up board so i set up to by eye and I always give a little toe out by eye.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugman
Personally I love my rc8t it jumps and handles great as far as durabilaty ive raced mine for about 2 years and only broke a front a arm at my friends track hitting a piece of rebar that was holding down the lane pipe.Also just recentley pulled the screws out of the rear gearbox due too real bad landings off a big jump.I have never driven a mugen but a couple friends of mine do and they like them.I think they are lighter than the rc8t as far as durabilaty cant say some guys say the front arms break alot but I guess it depends on how you drive either way i think they are both good truggys if possible depending where you race and if any of your freinds have both brands ask them to drive them and go with what truggy you like best.GOOD LUCK!
thanks for the info its gonna be a tougfh descision
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Old 09-30-2010, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rc8rules
thanks for the info its gonna be a tougfh descision

since you already have a rc8b I would stick with the rc8t ce
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:28 PM
  #1830  
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If you have the buggy get the truggy a lot of parts are interchangeable and this will make your life easier. As far as Mugen v.s. AE I have drove my RTR truggy and my buddy's M-spec. Now this isn't really a fair comparison as mine is RTR and his is the Factory set-up kit. Heres my thoughts. I love the way my truggy handles over his even in RTR form. But, I loved how light and nimble the Mugen was. Easy to drive fast but don't have the "on rails" feeling thru the corners like mine. I think they're all similar tho and you just have to find your set-up.
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