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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 07-08-2010, 09:40 PM
  #1621  
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I do understand and agree with that statement, and I could tell you that I am not really even in the ballpark of the setup that I ran on my Losi.....So Far I am liking the RC8T quite a bit and it seems to fit my driving style well, but I have been struggling mightly on the speed issue (and have been posting about it here and getting tips on things to try to resolve the issue). The problem is that I can not clear a table top double at one of my local tracks that I was easily able to clear previously (Along with nearly everyone else at the track). So, the comment was that I think I have figured it out.....we will see.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jsmax
I do understand and agree with that statement, and I could tell you that I am not really even in the ballpark of the setup that I ran on my Losi.....So Far I am liking the RC8T quite a bit and it seems to fit my driving style well, but I have been struggling mightly on the speed issue (and have been posting about it here and getting tips on things to try to resolve the issue). The problem is that I can not clear a table top double at one of my local tracks that I was easily able to clear previously (Along with nearly everyone else at the track). So, the comment was that I think I have figured it out.....we will see.
Cool. Hope you figured it out. My truck clears jumps easily at my track. Sometimes I end up over shooting. I run 40wt in front shocks and 35wt in rear. The 40wt in front gives me a good kick off the face of jump. My diff are 7-7-7. It is dialed now. I used to run 7-10-5 and 7-20-5, but the 7-7-7 has excellent on and off power steering and stops that PUSH. Other than the plastic rear hubs, there is not a lot to upgrade. I knew to replace hubs from my previous RC8T FT. Check out this guy on ebay. He makes machined hubs that actually match your trucks other metals and is only $25. I have nothing but good things to say about this product.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Rear-Kn...item2c548cde20

***In my honest opinion and observations, the Losi 2.0 is the fastest excellerating truggy on the markert.***

Last edited by jaywax; 07-08-2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:19 PM
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It is pretty close, it is a tight smallish kind of track so it kind of tests things pretty well. I am running 7/10/7 in the diffs, like the responsiveness with 10 in the middle. I have not played with the shocks much yet, I am running 45 in front and 40 in rear (Lot of traction at this track and fairly smooth, going to back down to 40/35 to try at other tracks). We will see how it does tomorrow, but I am sure it will fix it, otherwise I am pretty comfortable with the truggy......
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:19 PM
  #1624  
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Just put in a D8T tank and didn't have any D8T standoffs for the tank

I ended up going with some alum. parts off a rear wing mount I had laying around. Fits the tank holes nice with just a little flex and used a couple of o-rings for shocks on the stand off to cushion a tank a bit. Not too bad and I hope my tank issues are gone with the new tank. I don't have any pics to show, but back a few pages someone showed a D8T tank installed. Pretty much the same thing I did, but with the alum. standoffs I used from the rear wing mount. I guess the plactic ones from the CE kit could be used. I have a set of D8T tank mounts comming, but couldn't wait.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:25 PM
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Just saw your updates.....and would have to disagree, having had both, the RC8T accelerates harder, I have to feather the throttle more with it than my losi 2.0, but the Losi I also ran a different tire combination as that is what it liked better (I mostly ran City Blocks in front and I-beams in back to get more rotation around the corner). The RC8T I get more wheel spin on, which is why I am testing a couple different gearing combinations to help my throttle finger.....
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jsmax
Just saw your updates.....and would have to disagree, having had both, the RC8T accelerates harder, I have to feather the throttle more with it than my losi 2.0, but the Losi I also ran a different tire combination as that is what it liked better (I mostly ran City Blocks in front and I-beams in back to get more rotation around the corner). The RC8T I get more wheel spin on, which is why I am testing a couple different gearing combinations to help my throttle finger.....
That tire combo is what I am running. It works really well. It happened by an error on amain. I ordered two sets of pre-glued city blocks and they sent me the two different sets. I checked my order and it showed error, but people had starting running that combo by that time. Really look into the aluminum hubs.
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:10 AM
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i am constantly having to change the rear inner camber link end due to bowing/bending. has anyone tried any bigger tougher caber link ends? i have looked at several options but wnated to get opinnions first.

thanks
scott ross
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Old 07-09-2010, 06:41 AM
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I have not looked at options yet, but mine are bowed as well. I would look at the Mugen ones first as they are similar design.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Arm-Link-X5T
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:57 AM
  #1629  
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Originally Posted by flippz
i am constantly having to change the rear inner camber link end due to bowing/bending. has anyone tried any bigger tougher caber link ends? i have looked at several options but wnated to get opinnions first.

thanks
scott ross
I think all the RC8T's have this problem. I spoke with one of AE sponsored drivers here in TX (Kyle Skidmore) and he said do not worry about it. It looks weird but does not effect handling. I figure if it was good enough for him, it should be good enough for me. I've left mine alone and truck runs fine. They will only warp so much and then it stays. But, I have seen some guys switch to Mugens.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:16 AM
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I have a D8T in mine as well, after looking around a bit, I think a hyper fuel tank mount could work perfect to replace one of the stock mounts and mount the tank up without having to drill a new hole. I cut off plastic servo horn and used that to bridge the gap, but I think the hyper mount may be perfect.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:44 PM
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i am constantly having to change the rear inner camber link end due to bowing/bending. has anyone tried any bigger tougher caber link ends? i have looked at several options but wnated to get opinnions first.
The left side bends. I reinforce that one with JB Weld. Works great.

I ordered the Mugen links...but they come with nothing...be sure to order EVERYTHING. Inner, outer, turnbuckles and ball ends. Really not worth it. The JB Weld is all you need.

Scuff it up and fill in the sides.
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Old 07-09-2010, 06:41 PM
  #1632  
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Default RS to CE...?

Ok so I'm pretty new to nitro as everyone in this thread should know by now. I had bought the RTR RS version of the truggy.(also known) I had considered upgrading to CE parts but after looking at A-main I kinda gave up on it. (Probably 3-400$) However my only internet ventures before my RC car was online gaming. (WOW ruins lives LOL) And as I went thru Ebay I noticed that I could get alot of the parts to upgrade pretty reasonably. I'm wanting to upgrade the towers and get the threaded shocks and Aluminum steering top plate and of course the A,B,C,and D plates. I have a few questions about it. Also, questions about some other parts like Alum. hub carriers, Ti steering parts.

Ok if I go with the towers first or soon what would ya'll suggest? Carbon or Alum. also I read about the set and it says these key into the chassis. Will I need the CE chassis to "key" into? Will the threaded shocks fit alright in the stamped alum. towers I have now if I get them first? Will I need those towers for the A,B,C,and D plates?(or that chassis?) What about the blue alum. shock ends(caps) what are their benefit?(just jewelry?) Same with hub carriers? What's the benefit? I can understand the benefit of the Ti parts but are they needed? Is that an issue with these? And the narrow hex hubs? Will they reduce "push" in corners?

Bottom line: If I can get a few of these at decent prices what (should) I replace first? What's the biggest improvement pcs.? Any general information on these upgrades would be helpful before I mess up again. By again I mean I should have bought the CE kit in the first place.... too late now tho.

Oh 1 more thing I forgot. What about the chassis braces? From what I can tell from my limited experience it seems I have alot of chassis flex. Just how it "feels" Thanks for any insight!
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:30 PM
  #1633  
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Hi, while I have not run the RC8T for very long, I have been running Nitro for years and would plan the following:

1) Shocks - Biggest handling/performance gain

2) Servos - If you have not replaced the RTR Servos....

3) Shock towers

4) Chassis - Stronger and changes the flex characteristics.

That would be my key list. Those will give you the biggest improvements. The A/B/C/D plates give you increased adjustability, but will not really gain you anything except maybe durability if you are having a problem breaking the stock plates.

From a durability standpoint I would go with aluminum rear uprights...
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:33 PM
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Sorry, forgot one key item:

1.5) The narrower CE wheel hexes.
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Do-Over
Ok so I'm pretty new to nitro as everyone in this thread should know by now. I had bought the RTR RS version of the truggy.(also known) I had considered upgrading to CE parts but after looking at A-main I kinda gave up on it. (Probably 3-400$) However my only internet ventures before my RC car was online gaming. (WOW ruins lives LOL) And as I went thru Ebay I noticed that I could get alot of the parts to upgrade pretty reasonably. I'm wanting to upgrade the towers and get the threaded shocks and Aluminum steering top plate and of course the A,B,C,and D plates. I have a few questions about it. Also, questions about some other parts like Alum. hub carriers, Ti steering parts.

Ok if I go with the towers first or soon what would ya'll suggest? Carbon or Alum. also I read about the set and it says these key into the chassis. Will I need the CE chassis to "key" into? Will the threaded shocks fit alright in the stamped alum. towers I have now if I get them first? Will I need those towers for the A,B,C,and D plates?(or that chassis?) What about the blue alum. shock ends(caps) what are their benefit?(just jewelry?) Same with hub carriers? What's the benefit? I can understand the benefit of the Ti parts but are they needed? Is that an issue with these? And the narrow hex hubs? Will they reduce "push" in corners?

Bottom line: If I can get a few of these at decent prices what (should) I replace first? What's the biggest improvement pcs.? Any general information on these upgrades would be helpful before I mess up again. By again I mean I should have bought the CE kit in the first place.... too late now tho.

Oh 1 more thing I forgot. What about the chassis braces? From what I can tell from my limited experience it seems I have alot of chassis flex. Just how it "feels" Thanks for any insight!
It would be much cheaper for you to find a used RC8T on ebay than to try to convert rtr to ce. Ebay has some good buys on used RC8T's.
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