Do-Over

Anyone else care to elaborate or justify that claim? Since i've been gone so long i dont deny that I'm basically starting over. I didnt even run nitro before so just treat as if i'm brand new to RC. I dont really know if i can just return to tower anyway. If i can should I or should i just get back into it with the RS(yes thats the RTR) and wait to upgrade to CE parts or buy a CE?

Anyone know what the return policy to tower is?

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

Depends on if you know you are planning to race competitively for the forseeable future. If you are not sure you really want to commit the time/money to race then stick with the RTR to feel it out. If you know that you are going to stick with it an dspend the time and money to do so and be competitive, then it is different.

Nixon327

iTrader: (1)

What I would do personally is just keep the truck you have since you already bought it. Rather then send it back and buy a new truck and engine, pipe, servos, and radio which would be probably be three times what you would have spent in the first place with an RTR. Just run what you have. I'm sure that truck will run pretty good out of the box with room for improvement. Then, as you get the hang of the truck and get faster and more consistent with it then you upgrade. First I would install the a,b,c,d, blocks. Then the shock towers. Then probably the shocks. That is as far as the truck is concerned. Now radio gear, engine, pipe, thats another story.

Tbizz

iTrader: (2)

I've been running the RC8T Factory Team. It's got some nicer things than the RTR but not that much is different. It's my first year running truggy and I managed to TQ one of the heats the last race out of 12. The shocks on the RS leave a bit to be desired but I haven't used them personally so...they might not be that bad. If you haven't been into racing in a long time just run what you've got and try to get it setup to your liking. When it gets worn out from racing, maybe AE will have a different kit out by then that you can get.

Since you're not a hardcore racer you might not even be able to notice a difference between the two. So you don't regret your decision, do what I do, don't drive other people's cars, then you won't know what you're missing.

flippz

iTrader: (4)

i started with the rs rtr kit and upgraded as i went. i was new to nitro,and like had raced 1/10 electric. the truck out of the box is more than youu will need at first and i started upgrading as i went. shocks first are going to be a must then what you feel you need. the abcd blocks are good if you adjust alot but if you race at one spot and stay with one set up they are not a must. same for the shock towers. i have been very competitive so far and even ran the pnb race this year with it,and it was not the truck that kept me out of the a main. then when you do upgrade you have a spare roller for parts and refrence.

flippz

iTrader: (4)

where can i get some fiberglass or carbon brake discs at for my truck? i have worn out mine and if i am paying 23 dollars might as well upgrade.

Tbizz

iTrader: (2)

Indo Phenolic Brakes
http://www.avidrc.com/product/4/brak...UG-brakes.html


Xtreme Racing Team Associated RC8 Carbon Fiber Brake Disk
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ke-Disk-2-Blue

Haven't tried either.

Do-Over

Thanks guys those are really great suggestions. I'll stick with the RTR I am really worried about the composite shocks tho. I run a construction co. and in the last 2 months have built 3 different tracks! We have about 15 ppl running truggies or buggies and with all the heavy equipment I have access to the tracks are no joke! We have very large table tops and triples that look on par with most of the Youtube videos I've seen I wanted to go to the Alum. Shocks( think thats what they are) from the FT. Just wondering tho will the fit right onto the 3mm black alum. shock towers? Should I get the towers and shock kits at the same time?


Noob question: I have no idea what the A,B,C,and D blocks even do sorry for my ignorance. ( 8 years ago I ran 1/10 electric) a lot has changed!

flippz

iTrader: (4)

THANKS that is what i was looking for. i knew i had seen them and last night when i went to amain i could not find them. thanks again.

flippz

iTrader: (4)

the aluminum shocks are known as the big bore 16mm shocks and yes they will fit the rtr stand offs. the abcd blocks are what your inner hinge pins go into to give the front suspension and the rear suspension its diffrent geometry. they are just called that.

sriley

iTrader: (32)

Do you guys use a fail-safe or spring/rubber band for the throttle? I'm picking up an RC8T CE tonight and I want to get all the little items I need to get it running. I'm hoping to have it built by Sunday.

RUNNINONMT

yes i wouldn't run without them and good luck and have fun with your ce cause i do

Do-Over

So I started breaking in the motor on my RS RTR today. Using the Werks method in the werks motor thread. Everything seemed to be goin smooth but at the 6th tank. With a VERY rich setting and only short half throttle runs for a couple seconds the motor was getting up to 200-210F..... Is this normal for these engines? I KNOW its not lean there is still thick smoke and fuel coming from the exhaust and I havent had it over half throttle.... Does this seem too high?

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

It is fine. Motors are just really tight. Run it till it gets to about 230-240* then turn it off, make sure the piston is close to DBC, let it cool then do it again. You should be able to get further and further each time till you have to start leaning it out to get the temps up.

Do-Over

I went back out and ran a couple more tanks and I feel better about it now. The highest it got was about 242 and stabilized. It was running about 230 tops by the end of the second tank with both needles in about 2 hours from the richer setting i had it at. Needles seem really touchy it doesnt take much to get really fat or thin on it.

Thanks for the reassurance Js!