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Kyosho ST-RR

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Old 10-19-2017, 10:14 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho ST-RR
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Current running upgrades/Mods people are doing to this truck late 2016/early 2017.

-Chassis Options
m2c2850 KYOSHO STRR EVO WEIGHT FOWARD TRUGGY

-Engine Mount Option
IFW102 - Blue narrower Mount. Allows you to put Lock Nuts on top of screws that hold the Mount plates in.
Agama motor mount AGM6206

-For MP9 Knuckle conversion
Kyosho IF419 MP9 Knuckles
Kyosho IFW436 16degree Hub Carrier
Kyosho IF420 Knuckle Arm Collar (slightly thinner than STRR one)
Kyosho IF467 Long King Pin

-Strengthening upgrades
King Headz KP-360-BLK Front Torque Arm
King Headz KP-372RR-BLK Rear Torque Arm (extended chassis)
King Headz KP-300LB-BLK Lower Front Holder ‘B’
King Headz KP-300UL-BLK Front Upper Holder ‘L’
King Headz KP-329 Rear Brace Mount
IS157 Hardened Diff Case from Psycho Kruiser
IGW002GM Alum Rear Hubs
HB Outdrives #67197

-Replacing C-Clip Hinge Pins on Inner Susp Holder
HPI 109848 Hing Pins
Racers Edge/KFactory RCEK8034 Pins (Very hard to find)
or
Replace complete A/B/C/D Blocks with:
*M2C m2c2510 KYOSHO ST-RR/ EVO REAR TOE BLOCK
*M2C m2c2520 KYOSHO STRR EVO TRUGGY FRONT LOWER ANTIDIVER KIT


-Servo Saver Mod
IFW450 MP9 SS Alum Upper Arm
IF417 MP9 SS Lower Assembly

(See http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=4112 for full pics and description).


-Performance Updates
IFW327BL Blue Narrow Hexes (typically run on front).

-Bodies Options
RC8T Bulldog Body (discontinued late 2016).

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Old 10-19-2007, 07:28 PM
  #61  
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Default LOSI WHEELS
Originally Posted by CRFXXXT View Post
Hey guy's,

Was wondering if everyone is running Losi wheels with this truggy. I just ordered one and wanted to pick up a set or two of tires and wheels but wasn't sure what the story was.

I know the wheels that come with it are standard size, but wasn't sure if people are switching over or not.

Thanks
Dave
IF YOU RUN LOSI WHEELS YOU GOT TO RUN STANDARD WHEEL HUBS OR THE 777 BUGGY HUBS, BECAUSE THE LOSI WHEELS ARE 1/2 OFF SETS
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:00 AM
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Kyosho Inferno STRR with Sirio power won the Nitrocross Invite class. Congrats to Ryan Cavalieri on the win, and also to Kyosho.

Here's the $5000.00 question: If a pro wants to buy a truggy that will give him a chance to win, which one does he buy?
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:04 AM
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ST-RR of course
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Old 11-06-2007, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pitpop View Post
Kyosho Inferno STRR with Sirio power won the Nitrocross Invite class. Congrats to Ryan Cavalieri on the win, and also to Kyosho.

Here's the $5000.00 question: If a pro wants to buy a truggy that will give him a chance to win, which one does he buy?
Cavalieri was running an orion engine.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by associatedguy View Post
Cavalieri was running an orion engine.
Wrong. Sirio CL7B, turbo button, .027 head clearance, Sirio 2013 pipe, and OS P3 plug.
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:30 AM
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Paul, can you send me that same information, except for the EVO III please? I am currently running an EVO III with the standard head button and would like to switch it over to a turbo plug.

Thanks
Dave
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Old 11-09-2007, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by pitpop View Post
Here's the $5000.00 question: If a pro wants to buy a truggy that will give him a chance to win, which one does he buy?
I love this question.
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CRFXXXT View Post
Paul, can you send me that same information, except for the EVO III please? I am currently running an EVO III with the standard head button and would like to switch it over to a turbo plug.

Thanks
Dave
No problem. Wise decision by the way. Use .024, p3 or Sirio #6 plug, and 2013 pipe.
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:30 PM
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Hey Paul,

Another question for you. When I pulled the standard head button off and starting measuring everything, we came to the conclusion that we need .055-.056 thousands of shims to reach .024 of head clearance, does this sound right? Also, where on the top of the piston are you measuring since the piston has a dome top with a flat in the center of it? Im guessing the center with the flat spot, but maybe not?

Thanks
Dave
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:42 AM
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Default parts ??
i just ordered the new strr and i like to keep some front arms just in case. Do the arms fit off the str?? are the str parts for the most part the same?? Thanks
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:47 AM
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Default comparable parts
Yes, most of the components on the ST-RR are directly from the ST-R. The only glaring differences would be Chassis, Shocks, body. Pretty much everything in the Front Middle and rear ends are the same. I believe all the plastic is the same.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by CRFXXXT View Post
Hey Paul,

Another question for you. When I pulled the standard head button off and starting measuring everything, we came to the conclusion that we need .055-.056 thousands of shims to reach .024 of head clearance, does this sound right? Also, where on the top of the piston are you measuring since the piston has a dome top with a flat in the center of it? Im guessing the center with the flat spot, but maybe not?

Thanks
Dave
I am not sure on the total shimming required, I will try to measue it tonight, and post the number for you. The stock shimming should be fine with either button. When I get done setting up an engine, I always pinch some solder to double check. Nothing will screw up an engine quicker than bad deck height. Please be careful if you do the solder pinch test, not to cut off a piece of solder in one of the ports, and get it jammed up in your engine. Your engine won't be too happy. Just be careful that the solder doesn't go into a port, or use the exhaust port. When I give out head clearance numbers, I am giving you the measurement near the cylinder wall. .024 near the wall will give you about .017 near the plug.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:57 AM
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hi pitpop

regarding the Sirio CL7B STI...I have just noticed the latest turbo plugs available from Sirio come in either hot or cold configuration e.g turbo No.6 cold and turbo No.6 hot. Whereas before they were just turbo No.6 or 7 etc.

Which ones would you suggest works best for the buggy engine? The Hot or cold version of No.6.

thanks

tom
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Old 11-14-2007, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by CRFXXXT View Post
Hey Paul,

Another question for you. When I pulled the standard head button off and starting measuring everything, we came to the conclusion that we need .055-.056 thousands of shims to reach .024 of head clearance, does this sound right? Also, where on the top of the piston are you measuring since the piston has a dome top with a flat in the center of it? Im guessing the center with the flat spot, but maybe not?

Thanks
Dave
From what I've been reading and checking, the area to measure would be against the sleeve, piston to the button clearance. Generally the center dome on the piston does not come as close to the button due to the combustion chamber at the glow plug area. A friend if mine stated for 30% nitro, he spaces the clearance at .028-.030 inches on his Piccos, not MM. Don't get metric & standard mixed up. I did that on one engine and had the piston touch the button when hot. On Novarossi engines, like the P5X or 367 Plus 2, they install .70mm of shims (two .30mm aluminum shims & one .10 mm copper shim in between) from factory and state thats for 25% Nitro, but I assume you cannot tell exactly what shims to use till you break-in the engine and check the actual clearance to the button with some solder.
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Old 11-15-2007, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomcat8 View Post
hi pitpop

regarding the Sirio CL7B STI...I have just noticed the latest turbo plugs available from Sirio come in either hot or cold configuration e.g turbo No.6 cold and turbo No.6 hot. Whereas before they were just turbo No.6 or 7 etc.

Which ones would you suggest works best for the buggy engine? The Hot or cold version of No.6.

thanks

tom
Hi Tom. I am not aware of a hot #6, or cold #6. If I had to choose, I would definitely say hot. This will give the most power and bottom end. We generally run #5 or #6 off road turbo plug. The OS P3 also works well, especially with Sidewinder Fuel.
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